Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
#8401
Maybe its just because these things tend to produce so much heat in some of the motors that we have them geared so low that they are topped out speed wise when the hit the jumps that there is no more wheel speed to be had to keep the nose up in the air.
It requires an increase in wheel speed to lift the front and if its topped out cuz its geared so low that could be one reason.
It might be interesting to see if an extra tooth or two fixes the nose down problem but at the expense of more heat.
maybe thats why the 1410 works better. it is lighter but that weight loss is from the back not the front.
just my 2cents.
i have the tekin 5,5 in mine and have not had a problem with the nose diving and no push on mine.
It requires an increase in wheel speed to lift the front and if its topped out cuz its geared so low that could be one reason.
It might be interesting to see if an extra tooth or two fixes the nose down problem but at the expense of more heat.
maybe thats why the 1410 works better. it is lighter but that weight loss is from the back not the front.
just my 2cents.
i have the tekin 5,5 in mine and have not had a problem with the nose diving and no push on mine.
PS the tenshock 4600kv came today, guess I'll have to do some testing on this motor now too, funny I was thinking it was a 4000kv motor not 4600kv no wonder people think it has a little more pep than the 1410, 3800kv to 4600kv is a pretty big shot, not that gearing can't make up for that. Couple quick observations.. it's a pretty solid looking motor, and from feel it's got to weigh more than the 1410 as well. It does have a 5mm shaft so no reducer or special pinion is needed. Maybe Thursday I will run w/ this motor instead... hard to bring myself to change anything to be honest. Maybe it just goes in the tool box for my backup.
Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-03-2011 at 07:03 AM.
#8402
I ripped w/ mine the other day at the track (16/40 gearing) from the lap times I saw, I had her running just over a second off the pace of the pro nitro buggy drivers and funny enough my scte had the most laps of any qualifier for the entire day, granted some of the fast buggy drivers had some hiccups & slower qualifiers than normal. But moral.. the 1410 rocks. I didn't use any throttle tricks I just drove it, it will go nose down if you don't jump it right but if you jump it properly there are no issues. I posted my setup a few pages back, it worked REALLY well on the large 1/8 track. PS no front sway is the way to go on most tracks, iMO.
PS the tenshock 4600kv came today, guess I'll have to do some testing on this motor now too, funny I was thinking it was a 4000kv motor not 4600kv no wonder people think it has a little more pep than the 1410, 3800kv to 4600kv is a pretty big shot, not that gearing can't make up for that. Couple quick observations.. it's a pretty solid looking motor, and from feel it's got to weigh more than the 1410 as well. It does have a 5mm shaft so no reducer or special pinion is needed. Maybe Thursday I will run w/ this motor instead... hard to bring myself to change anything to be honest. Maybe it just goes in the tool box for my backup.
PS the tenshock 4600kv came today, guess I'll have to do some testing on this motor now too, funny I was thinking it was a 4000kv motor not 4600kv no wonder people think it has a little more pep than the 1410, 3800kv to 4600kv is a pretty big shot, not that gearing can't make up for that. Couple quick observations.. it's a pretty solid looking motor, and from feel it's got to weigh more than the 1410 as well. It does have a 5mm shaft so no reducer or special pinion is needed. Maybe Thursday I will run w/ this motor instead... hard to bring myself to change anything to be honest. Maybe it just goes in the tool box for my backup.
It has WAY more "pep" than the 1410 on the bottom and top (KV). It's obviously gonna have a little more on the top because of it KV but where this motor is impressive is on the bottom to mid. It will flat out destroy the 1410. Now with all that comes a price, heat! You won't be able to keep the temps under 200. The 4000 is gonna be where it's at!!
#8403
I'm almost 30 years deep in this sport. I can drive it. However, the changes I made did happen after I drove the truck, researched the truck, weighed the truck, balanced the truck, etc, etc, etc... Making it better is what I do. The top drivers you mention could drive anything fast, including the box it came in. Average joe drivers need all the help they can get. The better the truck is, the easier it is to drive, the faster they go. Simple as that. Everything I am offering is designed for the truck. The parts are designed to improve and convert the platform to a purpose built vehicle. Purposely designed to have a 2s lipo and a motor hanging off the opposite of where the motor was designed to be placed. Make no mistake, the platform was designed for nitro engines and was never re-engineered for a brushless platform. Simply put, if your good enough to be paid to drive, then your good enough to make an ill engineered vehicle look good. I am just trying to level the playing field.
I always make my cars better which includes changing the layout entirely and it makes a huge difference.
A more balanced car will always be more inspiring to drive harder and leads to more consistency and more consistency leads to faster laps, period.
My buddy who drives the same buggy as mine test drove my car the other day @ practice and he had to admit there was a huge difference. And there's really no difference in setup between his car and mine except all the custom made parts that helped change my layout for better balance.
My 2.0 and SCTE is only off a 1/2 oz. in crossweight which I take away in the springs to make it perfect.
#8404
Regarding the Tenshock 4600,
It has WAY more "pep" than the 1410 on the bottom and top (KV). It's obviously gonna have a little more on the top because of it KV but where this motor is impressive is on the bottom to mid. It will flat out destroy the 1410. Now with all that comes a price, heat! You won't be able to keep the temps under 200. The 4000 is gonna be where it's at!!
It has WAY more "pep" than the 1410 on the bottom and top (KV). It's obviously gonna have a little more on the top because of it KV but where this motor is impressive is on the bottom to mid. It will flat out destroy the 1410. Now with all that comes a price, heat! You won't be able to keep the temps under 200. The 4000 is gonna be where it's at!!
i've done a lot to reduce torque and increase run times in my 1/8 scales and always seem to have better lap times and control as I better match them. If the tenshock has more torque past being geared too tall and getting more 'effective' torque, then I know I don't want it. More torque past what the 1410 is giving me will do two things.. Reduce run times and make it more difficult to control. I hope just gearing it correctly will fix this, without calculating my guess is no racer should be geared over 13t iMO
#8405
my thoughts..
i've done a lot to reduce torque and increase run times in my 1/8 scales and always seem to have better lap times and control as I better match them. If the tenshock has more torque past being geared too tall and getting more 'effective' torque, then I know I don't want it. More torque past what the 1410 is giving me will do two things.. Reduce run times and make it more difficult to control. I hope just gearing it correctly will fix this, without calculating my guess is no racer should be geared over 13t iMO
i've done a lot to reduce torque and increase run times in my 1/8 scales and always seem to have better lap times and control as I better match them. If the tenshock has more torque past being geared too tall and getting more 'effective' torque, then I know I don't want it. More torque past what the 1410 is giving me will do two things.. Reduce run times and make it more difficult to control. I hope just gearing it correctly will fix this, without calculating my guess is no racer should be geared over 13t iMO
#8406
Please see above
If you had your request form in a couple weeks ago, there were enough pins that came in to cover all of the requests so you should have them now or shortly. If it came in after that, you will be waiting about another week for the second shipment of them.
#8407
Thanks Salad for the hook up, gettinmg me back on the track!
This guy is A1 in my book!
This guy is A1 in my book!
#8408
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I'm almost 30 years deep in this sport. I can drive it. However, the changes I made did happen after I drove the truck, researched the truck, weighed the truck, balanced the truck, etc, etc, etc... Making it better is what I do. The top drivers you mention could drive anything fast, including the box it came in. Average joe drivers need all the help they can get. The better the truck is, the easier it is to drive, the faster they go. Simple as that. Everything I am offering is designed for the truck. The parts are designed to improve and convert the platform to a purpose built vehicle. Purposely designed to have a 2s lipo and a motor hanging off the opposite of where the motor was designed to be placed. Make no mistake, the platform was designed for nitro engines and was never re-engineered for a brushless platform. Simply put, if your good enough to be paid to drive, then your good enough to make an ill engineered vehicle look good. I am just trying to level the playing field.
but to call this truck ill engineered to promote your products is wrong in my book!!Box stock the best truck on the market!!!Can you make it better with your parts or any other parts? Yes,but not an ill engineered truck by any means!
#8409
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
How important are the tiny little shims on the diff pins? the ones the sit next to the square pin retainers? I ran some of mine with them and some of mine without them. The ones with them look like they just are grinding into the pin blocks and look about flush now anyways. The ones I left them off look fine. So my question is will it be better to leave them off? Since they are just grinding groove into the sides anyways maybe even producing small amount of metal fragments.
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
#8410
alright, as of my last order from A-Main, I have jumped on to the RX8 bandwagon! hope their esc treats me better than castles.
got a couple CF goodies and a new proline body on the way!!!
so can't wait till they get here..
got a couple CF goodies and a new proline body on the way!!!
so can't wait till they get here..
#8411
How important are the tiny little shims on the diff pins? the ones the sit next to the square pin retainers? I ran some of mine with them and some of mine without them. The ones with them look like they just are grinding into the pin blocks and look about flush now anyways. The ones I left them off look fine. So my question is will it be better to leave them off? Since they are just grinding groove into the sides anyways maybe even producing small amount of metal fragments.
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
#8412
does anyone know if the new proline chevy body is something like the flow tech body..?
hope it is but not a big deal if it ain't will still be adding some kind of holes for air flow. tho I also wonder how important it is on this rig never cut the hole in the stock body and never really had a problem but a few times on the lower jumps that carry alot of speed.
hope it is but not a big deal if it ain't will still be adding some kind of holes for air flow. tho I also wonder how important it is on this rig never cut the hole in the stock body and never really had a problem but a few times on the lower jumps that carry alot of speed.
#8413
How important are the tiny little shims on the diff pins? the ones the sit next to the square pin retainers? I ran some of mine with them and some of mine without them. The ones with them look like they just are grinding into the pin blocks and look about flush now anyways. The ones I left them off look fine. So my question is will it be better to leave them off? Since they are just grinding groove into the sides anyways maybe even producing small amount of metal fragments.
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
Last question the droop screws I removed mine so they don't destroy my chassis. I don't see a real difference in ride height what purpose do they serve?
#8415
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Maybe they should pay me to drive this, truck drives better than my two previous trucks..Period!Upgrading is R/C nature and to build and provide for that is fine
but to call this truck ill engineered to promote your products is wrong in my book!!Box stock the best truck on the market!!!Can you make it better with your parts or any other parts? Yes,but not an ill engineered truck by any means!
but to call this truck ill engineered to promote your products is wrong in my book!!Box stock the best truck on the market!!!Can you make it better with your parts or any other parts? Yes,but not an ill engineered truck by any means!
As for promoting my products, it is what it is. I do not sit around and think of things to make for a specific vehicle just for the sake of making them. If you want that there are several other companies out there. If you want well thought out, tested, proven products that have a true purpose and reason then come to me.
Is this truck ill engineered? IMO in some aspects yes.. In other aspects no.. It depends on what part of the market you are looking to and what you are looking to get from a certain platform.
Companies make very little on the 'racing' side of the market. Companies like Traxxas didn't make their millions selling race vehicles. The way I see it, Losi has a racing background and to some degree are expected to produce a race vehicle by the consumers. However, times are changing. I am sure it was much easier / cheaper for Losi to re-badge an existing platform in favor of designing a new one. Financially it makes sense. The company gets another 'life' out of an existing platform, we buy it and all is well. There is no expenditure on testing, engineering, aftermarket hop ups, etc.. It is all the same as what is already existing, just smaller.
Had Losi engineered a purpose built electric short course truck, I bet the pro's would go even faster than they already are. Do I blame Losi for bringing the truck in its current form to market? Not in the least. It gives people / hobbyists like me something to do. I started posting my findings as a source of information that grew into a possible product line.