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Old 07-01-2012, 12:04 PM
  #36256  
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Originally Posted by Moogumby
OK noob question...

with the shock standoffs you get in the TLR tuning kit.. its no longer a screw that keeps it in? And im assuming you have to add a nut to keep it in?
You are correct. The stock system used a screw that went through the back of the shock tower, then a nut to hold that screw in place, then the shock bushing and shock, then another nut. The standoffs are much stronger and you slide the standoff through the front of the tower and back it with a nut, then on the front goes the bushing and the other nut. That was you can change shock locations with just removing the rear nut.
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by spider882009
Got some big questions about the MIP set up!

1. Does the RPM front bumper work with the MIP?

2. Is there a place for the AMB transponder? (I have the carbon mount for transponder now)

3. Will the carbon top plate for the center diff work?

4. Is there side guards that work for it? (Or are they coming out with some)

5. Does the shock re-build kit work with the TLR shocks?

6. Is anyone racing this chassis yet? And how is it doing?

I'll be running the Viper Copperhead w/ the 5150KV motor. I run the small AMB Transponder. Losi High torque steering servo.
I can answer these but as was said earlier since they are quite specific, it may be better to go directly to the MIP thread. The RPM front bumper will work but I might question as to why you would want to spend the money on such a high performance kit to throw that bumper on that is surely goign to adjust performance to the negative. You just mount your transponder with double sided tape anywhere you want. You can use your existing top plate with the system. There are no side guards on thsi setup, something I do not recommend for the casual racer, but it does shed some weight. It uses TLR shocks so YES, the bypass system works with it, just replaces the pistons.

There were 3 of these at the JBRL this weekend. Two made the show, one won, the other was deep. Matt Olsen is a great driver and the truck looked good this weekend but I have a feeling he could wheel anything.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:49 PM
  #36258  
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Originally Posted by wfdfiremedic
As others have stated, 4000 kv is not a 3s motor. If you want to run 3s, go with the losi rtr motor, or the castle 2400 kv motor.
yea, i know and hence why i said drop to a lower kv motor...its to high for 3s and needs to down around 2000 or so for 3s. Just not real sure why you quoted me on that...
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:20 PM
  #36259  
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I don't know why you guys hate on all rpm stuff. I've been using the rpm front bumper and rear skidplate with no dragging issues. If anything i've been doing just the same or better with them. Sure if you have your ride height like a ferrari it's going to drag, but if you have decent clearance you shouldn't have problems. I've broken 2 stock front bumpers so far and so has my friend with hist truck first time out with it.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
I posted last week about smoking my pro 4 and asked for suggestions about what motor to buy next. Thank you to everyone for their input. I was fixing to order a tenshock when I decided to call tekin. I told them what happened (rotor delaminated) and that it was well out of warranty. I asked if it was worth sending in or should I just buy a new motor. I was surprised when he told me to def send it in that if was not able to be repaired they would swap it for a brand new one for $73. Also about six months ago I had a problem with my rx8 which they had just repaired. I called up and told them that I had a big race the following week. They shipped me out a brand new one that same day for $165 and then refunded the money on my card a couple of days later when they received the one I sent back. I'm not knocking any of the other brands but to me that kind of customer service is worth spending the extra money on. I guess its official, I'm a Tekin fan.

Classic Tekin

Originally Posted by Casper
Yes the only Tekin pro-4 motor rated for 2S is the 3300.


I Think You mean 3S.
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:41 PM
  #36261  
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Ive been using the RPM bumper for a few practice runs now. Ive grounded down the top portion of the front bar. Ive also removed the bottom channels there to bring the skid plate up about 2mm.

You can notice the weight of the bumper and the bumper does slightly drag, but its hardly noticeable.

Here is a video of this weekend running indoor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCRvx4mWl1M
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HighLife420
Ive been using the RPM bumper for a few practice runs now. Ive grounded down the top portion of the front bar. Ive also removed the bottom channels there to bring the skid plate up about 2mm.

You can notice the weight of the bumper and the bumper does slightly drag, but its hardly noticeable.

Here is a video of this weekend running indoor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCRvx4mWl1M
Yeah i also dremeled out the channels on the front bumper. I also adjusted my preload to give a bit more clearance. Truck really handles quite well. On another note, for all you guys running the ape battery tray, how does it perform compred to the stocker. Money is kind of tight and i'm wondering which upgrades are my top priority.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I don't know why you guys hate on all rpm stuff. I've been using the rpm front bumper and rear skidplate with no dragging issues. If anything i've been doing just the same or better with them. Sure if you have your ride height like a ferrari it's going to drag, but if you have decent clearance you shouldn't have problems. I've broken 2 stock front bumpers so far and so has my friend with hist truck first time out with it.
The bumper is twice as heavy as the stock one and catches the front of the body so that it sticks up at an awkward angle.

I run the RPM, and with a lot of grinding and removing the top bar from the bumper, the body doesn't catch and it's back to the same weight as the stock. But.. that was a lot of work to replace something worked right out of the bag w/ no modifications (the Losi bumper).

The only real benefit I can see is that you get a skid plate, which I'm mostly ambivalent about.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
yea, i know and hence why i said drop to a lower kv motor...its to high for 3s and needs to down around 2000 or so for 3s. Just not real sure why you quoted me on that...

Didn't mean to quote you..lol. I meant just to back up your statement. I find it helpful on forums when multiple people say the same things. That way you know it is pretty solid information.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:08 PM
  #36265  
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Originally Posted by goehm
The bumper is twice as heavy as the stock one and catches the front of the body so that it sticks up at an awkward angle.

I run the RPM, and with a lot of grinding and removing the top bar from the bumper, the body doesn't catch and it's back to the same weight as the stock. But.. that was a lot of work to replace something worked right out of the bag w/ no modifications (the Losi bumper).

The only real benefit I can see is that you get a skid plate, which I'm mostly ambivalent about.
Are you seriously concerned with the weight of a little plastic part when you run the heaviest sct out there? The stock losi bumper is like a twig that snaps when you barely put any perssure on it. I don't know about you but i'm more concerned about protecting my $800 truck then a few grams of weight savings.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wfdfiremedic
Didn't mean to quote you..lol. I meant just to back up your statement. I find it helpful on forums when multiple people say the same things. That way you know it is pretty solid information.
haha, ok...i kno i was lost and didnt kno what you were getting at, lol!
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Are you seriously concerned with the weight of a little plastic part when you run the heaviest sct out there? The stock losi bumper is like a twig that snaps when you barely put any perssure on it. I don't know about you but i'm more concerned about protecting my $800 truck then a few grams of weight savings.
Dude what are you running into?In a year and a half I have not broken a front bumper but broke two of the little part that attaches to the diff case.Two in a year and a half!!!And adjusting ride ht is very important for racing ,but maybe not if your crashing into stuff all day I guess And for those of us that have shaved weight where we can it is all about grams taken off
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Dude what are you running into?In a year and a half I have not broken a front bumper but broke two of the little part that attaches to the diff case.Two in a year and a half!!!And adjusting ride ht is very important for racing ,but maybe not if your crashing into stuff all day I guess And for those of us that have shaved weight where we can it is all about grams taken off
I am actually a very good driver and regularly make it into the a-mains at my track. I don't know what kind of speedbumps you have at you track but we actually have big jumps at ours. If a poorly molded stock front bumper can't take a hit then that's losi's problem.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Are you seriously concerned with the weight of a little plastic part when you run the heaviest sct out there? The stock losi bumper is like a twig that snaps when you barely put any perssure on it. I don't know about you but i'm more concerned about protecting my $800 truck then a few grams of weight savings.
I for sure don't run the heaviest SCT out there, and yes I am concerned about doubling the bumper weight at the nose of the truck. Weight outside the axles is a terrible place to add weight.

Until recently, I was using my stock bumper since the truck was unboxed and really the only problem it had was a fatigued upper mount so that the bumper sat inside the body a little bit.

I tried and am using the RPM and I think it's great for bashing, or moving cows out of the road. But for racing it gets a C, maybe a C+.

Perhaps I'd be worried about protecting my $800 truck if it was actually breaking with either bumper. But it isn't. So I chose not to double the weight of my bumper (so I cut the hell out of the RPM one, and now it's the same weight).
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Old 07-01-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm
I for sure don't run the heaviest SCT out there, and yes I am concerned about doubling the bumper weight at the nose of the truck. Weight outside the axles is a terrible place to add weight.

Until recently, I was using my stock bumper since the truck was unboxed and really the only problem it had was a fatigued upper mount so that the bumper sat inside the body a little bit.

I tried and am using the RPM and I think it's great for bashing, or moving cows out of the road. But for racing it gets a C, maybe a C+.

Perhaps I'd be worried about protecting my $800 truck if it was actually breaking with either bumper. But it isn't. So I chose not to double the weight of my bumper (so I cut the hell out of the RPM one, and now it's the same weight).
Feel free to post pics on how you cut your's. I will admit one thing it does hang up akwardly on the front of the body. Guess i just didn't notice because my body is at the end of it's life.
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