Agentman

iTrader: (2)

hi all I have owned my SCTE about 4 weeks now (having not raced in 6 years prior),
and thought I would update on what all I have done thus far! maybe parts are helpful to newer people idk.

Battery I am using is a 5500 Orion 90C carbon pro...(great battery)

It first came stock, which after about a week of practicing I picked back up some of my old driving skills (sort of like knowing how to ride a bike)
Managed to get around the track fast with the stock setup, was even getting compliments on my driving!

Got a little cocky and gunned it over these huge triples a few times, ended up just missing the end and smacking into the small hill each time (bout 95% of the way) - seems the motor just wasn't powerful enough!

Anyway- Bent the hell out of my chassis at some point! mostly I think due to riding with one of the shocks broken thus not even weight distribution when landing (didn't really care to fix it as I was going to rebuild anyway).

Put in my orders for the rebuild (most needed parts from RTR I think...):
Losi carbon front and rear shock towers-
RPM front skid plate+bumper,
new rear losi frame/RPM bumper,
new losi stock chassis (got one for 19 bux off ebay).

After all the parts arrived, the night before last race I spent awhile rebuilding (didn't make race unfortunately)....

this is what Ive done sofar:

Rebuilt all shocks into emulsion style with new 40w oil,
Rebuilt diffs with new grease,
Rebuilt using new losi carbon towers,
Rebuilt it all onto new chassis,
Picked up a RX8 + 4600 kv motor, wired it and installed with a new 14 tooth pinion- (AWESOME)
Also got the usb dongle to mod its settings from a PC (hotwire I think its called)

Recently: noticed jumping wasn't as good as it should be so I bought a reamer set and went to town on my stock body! - waiting for the driver stand /track completion to go test it out.. (see pic)

Have only been able to test the motor once since installed- and I can now easily clear the triples and have to say the rx8/4600 combo is amazingly smooth/quick and responsive!!!!! It's like a whole new vehicle really - getting used to the power.

I included some pics of the current setup-

Future plans (to remind myself):
1.Rebuild diffs 5-5-3 oil
2.Fix those two damn screws underside the chassis which stripped out >.>
3.Get a FloTek body/painted/cut ect
4.Get a lighter racing type chassis.
5.Upgrade more parts to aluminum or carbon (chassis braces ect)
6. ?????
any recommendations ?

pix:
goo.gl/f3su6
goo.gl/1QTz6
goo.gl/Zf87V

baker_on_tick

THE CAR DOSE NOT COME WITH HD LIGHTED OUTDRIVES... so your selling a car with parts designed to fail so you can make money selling updated parts...


ive measure the STOCK parts... they where made for the viscosity of grease... not diff oil... i changed them to a tighter tolerance .03mm fit for gear oil... works fine for the ID... then just made the a size for size tap fit into the diff case for OD... = no leaking

ALSO adding a second bearing to the front and rear outdrives.. dramaticly reduced the leaking... there only flogging out due to vibration caused by large tolerances in the outdrives and no support... dual bearings on every outdrive would solve this problem.... im currently redesigning the diff housing to accommodate dual bearings on the out drives

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

i raced last week with the xerun 4-pole 4700kv motor and the thing is just flat out ballistic. major, major grunt. for me, on the track i was running, it was very difficult to control. i went down as far as -40 on the expo on my radio and the bottom end control was still very minimal. not a very smooth motor at all. i didn't change any of the settings on the RX8 so it was still at 85% CL. if i had to stick with this motor, i would start at about 60% and go from there. i just did not like the motor for the track i was on. if i was running on a big 1/8 scale track, it might be the ticket as it's the most powerful motor i've run, it just doesn't have a hint of refinement in it's power delivery. for me, on the tracks i run at, the tenshocks are just a much better choice because of the smoothness of the power delivery. i also had to turn the brakes WAY down from what i was running on the tenshock so that backs up what you're saying about mid air adjustments. i think that huge, fatty rotor and it's large rotating mass lends itself to mid air adjustments very well.

Josey Wales

iTrader: (12)

my only suggestion would be to give yourself a big pat on the back

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Dude, spend some time driving the truck and less time posting those crappy pictures!!!Wow maybe you can post it some more tomorrow cuz we have never seen an end mill before.....JEEZ!!!

BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

I hope THIS is the part you guys are working on as IMO its the only part on the SCTE that REALLY needs changing .

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

ok, well my LHS guy hooked me up on the JConcepts illuzions 8ight body so i'll throw my 810 post back on the scte chassis and see how close they line up but man it looks like it will be dead nuts. I do also still have my 810 body but with the longer SCTE chassis im not sure how it will work but will def check it out.

As for the temps..u can bring in all the air you want but if you dont have a way for it to come out your doing no good...your trying to force air in somewhere where there is no room since what is already in there has no way out so if you had all the holes cut out in the front i can see why it got warm since it couldnt release that warm air and let more cool air in.

ALSO, yes...this new HW XERUN 4700kv is stupid fast...i have a 14t pinion and my punch set to 5 and that thing still smokes the tires(not literally). Once i get out on the track i will do some playing with gears as i think the 14 isnt bad but might like 12 or 13 to cut down speeds as with the 14t and punch set on 5 or 6 i hit 38mph and will never need to go that fast on our track which is more of a 1/8 scale track but big jumps made of 55 gallon drums on their sides and 2 of them end to end to cover the width of the track and hopefully i will have some vids on the track with the new SCTEs first runs, lol

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

What exactly r u shimming tighter the spider gears in the diff or the ring gear to pinion?

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

You should have gotten the 4000, that is what everyone gets around here including the local pro's now.. 4k on a 14 or 15 is the perfect beast. Zero temps issues just the right amount of power, sensored performance super smooth.

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys, some debate with my gang at the track about where the ride height is to be measured from,So what says You????Thanx!

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Lowest point on the front, just below the kick up, rear is obvious... 27mm no body for most tracks.

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

Thanks(8)! I thought the same but was hearing at the droop pads or in front of the rear wheels and behind the front.Did not Know with out a body..Hmmm Thanx!!

baker_on_tick

i race this car bro..... just FYI.. its a slot drill.... sorry if Im using to much logic for you... or maybe just go back to pushing your buttons on the cnc... cool chassis BCE make as well.. i used some of the aspects in the chassis im designing.. thanx

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

Funny..never liked a center smart diff..I liked a front smart diff, but I raced on road for years and it was sorta like driving with a one way..I guess it's all in what your use to....and I've never broken a rear bumper..but I race on smaller 1/10th scale sized tracks..

baker_on_tick

i didn't shim anything.. i added the bearing to the outside of the REAR motor mount/ centre diff carrier , so it suports the outdrive.. centralising it and stopping any vibration from the angle of the drive shaft

exactly what the king heads front , dual bearing mount dose to the front outdrive... i hope i explained that ok