LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

Take a Dremel and a cutting wheel and cut a line across the center of the cap head. You can then use a flat head screw driver to remove the screw. If you don't use a good quality hex set "Losi Hex's fit the Losi screws best" the screws can easily strip. The Losi hex's are not cheap but they are the best investment for my Losi vehicles I have made. Don't forget to use some Loctite on the screw and don't bare down on it when tightening it.

These are my favorite hex's but Losi make some other set too.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-set-LOSA99104

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

It not only strengthens your truck but it makes it lighter also. That decreases the the chances of breaking something during a wreck. The kit also gives you more tuning options and it a real deal compared to buying everything separate.

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

My buddy ran his truck for the first time today and after the 2nd battery we noticed that his rear center drive shaft was bent, I checked mines and it had a very slight bend also but barely noticeable, has anybody experienced this before and is there an improved/upgraded replacement part?

AgroAMG

iTrader: (3)

Broke it off tonight. I was asked if I had set the steering limits, and I said no. I have the Hitech 7955TG so it's got lots of power. I probably had just been lucky it didnt break all these 50+ packs i've ran. I am going to get it replace and then set the limit if i turn L then R to be just a hair at under the max, right?

What about running aluminum ones?

My trucks in the garage, but I believe it was the piece in the bottom that broke. it's the top portion of that combo and it broke right where it connects to the linkage that ultimately connects to the servo horn/arm.

LosiMadMan

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=AgroAMG;10199482]Broke it off tonight. I was asked if I had set the steering limits, and I said no. I have the Hitech 7955TG so it's got lots of power. I probably had just been lucky it didnt break all these 50+ packs i've ran. I am going to get it replace and then set the limit if i turn L then R to be just a hair at under the max, right?

What about running aluminum ones?

My trucks in the garage, but I believe it was the piece in the bottom that broke. it's the top portion of that combo and it broke right where it connects to the linkage that ultimately connects to the servo horn/arm.

IMO there is no need to run aluminum ones. This is my 3rd 8ight based vehicle and I have never broken those parts. If you don't set your travel your asking for trouble. Spend a few bucks and get replacements, then set your travel/end points and see how it goes.

Wildewinds

iTrader: (3)

I just did it for the first time a few days ago. I think the only trick is to find the right screws to remove for the front end to come off. I actually found this video useful: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4e0DVMgYZQ Although it's not very well done (and some it's some kid doing it). Just watch it till you see how to take off the front end to access the front diff.

Everything else is easy. The little shims that people talk about are located between the little square pin holders and the planetary gears and they're REALLY little and like to stick to things and get lost. Just pay attention to those and you'll be fine.

You don't need anything but diff oil, some type of sticky grease, and some type of cleaning agent to clean out the old grease (I like nitro clean that you can get at a hobby shop).

umm winning

iTrader: (8)

That kid is probably one of the best drivers out here in so cal... I believe he only has 2 sponsers boca bearings and thunder power...He should have more I was watching him in a race against Frank Root and they were basically battling the whole race, this kid hauls F$&@!?& @55

Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

I had the same exact issue, I upgraded to the STRC aluminum ones and it was a HUGE upgrade, really no slop, and wont break, nice and smooth

vasidudu

Hi there Feint Motion,
Quick question: is this the rear chassis brace you are using?
If so, is this a direct fit?
Thx for your feedback.
Best,
V

RustyRC

iTrader: (25)

Orange boca bearings cost $275. set

http://www.bocabearings.com/productd...SubGroupID=153

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

You can also go down to the local tool shop and pick up a screw extractor, I had stripped out the screws in the diff on my last rebuild total of 6 screws on 2 trucks picked up one of these and all came right out nice and easy. You can even order them from McMaster if you dont like going to a real store lol. I now have a couple sizes in my tool box just in case.

BFoley

If it is not copletely rounded out, get a new allen wrench or grind the tip of the one you have. Place a small dab of automotive valve grinding compound (preferred) or some abrasive powdered cleanser (such as Comet) in the screw head. You can generally get enough bite to get remove the screw. If the screw is thread locked in, heat it first with a soldering iron to release the thread locker.
Worth a try before you start grinding.

namewasdallas

I'm going to buy a new set of rim's and tire's for this coming spring but I've only owned 2 different type of tire's before just got back into the hobby this year so I'm not sure what type would be good. I've owned the Proline Gladiators and Calibar's for my stadium truck.

The track I race on has alot of loose top to it and with the calibars they load up with dirt and are packed solid so those are out of the question and the Gladiators kinda of did the same thing.

So with that being said what's a good tire for a loose top soil that wont pack into the tread's???
(The stock Losi' SCTE tire's dont load up but I want something different) I think there was some sort of AKA brand tire I saw that looked like it may work and other people were running but I can't remmber the name.

namewasdallas

That's awesome I'm going to pick up one before spring if everyone else doesn't buy them out

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

AKA Enduros