9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
04-29-2012, 06:01 PM
My SCTE with all the bling.
I tore down the truck today for a rebuild and to add some goodies.
I put in the HA shock boddies front and back.
HA shock caps and collars front and back.
Orange and black springs, M2R pistons with 27.5W front and back.
Rebuilt all 3 diffs with 5/7/3 and installed the HD outdrives in all three diffs.
Installed both HA steering posts, HA servo saver tube and an aluminum servo saver.
The truck also has Losi Hard Anodized Aluminum Pivot Ball Set with new rod ends.
Jammin Carbon Fiber Center Top Plates w/Transponder Mount.
Rear Arm Mud Guards.
LOSI CNC Aluminum Rear Hubs.
Losi Carbon Fiber 4mm front and rear Shock Towers.
Losi One-Piece Shock Standoffs.
Losi CNC Adjustable Front and rear Hinge Pin Holder Sets.
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckle Set.
Graphite Steering Drag Link.
Graphite Front Upper Plate.
Bump chassis.
TLR servo arm.
T-Bone bumpers front and rear.
King Headz drive shaft pin retainer sleeves and boots.
Tenshock SC411 4600kv motor with 14T pinion.
Castle MMP esc is working flawless with my XP DS1015 servo.
All new Avid bearings through out complete truck.
5/7/3 seems pretty good on my backyard track but coming from 5/5/3 I can notice less off power steering. Shocks seem to be working flawless with the 27.5W oil and M2R pistons. Can't wait to get it out on the big track to try out the 5/7/3 better.
04-29-2012, 06:14 PM
Could you let us know how the MMP runs with the SC411? I have an MMP with the 3800kv Castle motor but I want to go with the 4600kv SC411 but I am worried about power issues versus going with an RX8 or Mamba Monster. Are you going to run an external BEC or no?
04-29-2012, 06:24 PM
I was practicing at the track yesterday and tweaked my stock chassis so bad at the front tab that the front drive shaft wont stay in. The weird thing is that I can't even point to a bad landing or crash that bent it. No lawn darts, no cartwheels, no landings hard enough that I thought would bend it.
The tab is bent downward which is the opposite I would have expected. The only thing I can think of is maybe a flat landing over the triple was too much force downward. Anyway it's toast so I ordered a TLR flex tuned version - I sure hope it is tougher than the stock version.
The tab is bent downward which is the opposite I would have expected. The only thing I can think of is maybe a flat landing over the triple was too much force downward. Anyway it's toast so I ordered a TLR flex tuned version - I sure hope it is tougher than the stock version.
04-29-2012, 06:26 PM
I did the exact same thing to my BCE chassis and it's not the chassis fault. The only thing that can cause it to bend like that is what happened to me. The front diff housing screws that also hold the bumper on had to be coming out. When u hit the face of the jumps, the screw is catching the dirt which pulls the chassis downward in that exact place. Just a reminder to check and tighten all your screws periodically.
04-29-2012, 06:29 PM
I was running a RX8 and the motor ran great with it but it stopped working. I put in the MMP and it started cogging when I turned hard left. I readjusted endpoints for stearing took off and it ran flawless. ZERO cogging at all since setting end points. I personally like the MMP better not because it does a better job but because I like the Castle link firmware.
04-29-2012, 07:05 PM
I just picked up a fully loaded SCTE but it did not come with any spares. What parts do I need to have as spares. Thanks.
04-29-2012, 07:22 PM
More
Kinda slow at the homestead, plus I wanted to show my battery tray installed. Except for the new shock goodies to replace my stock shocks I think I'm done.
I'm sure it can be lightened a lot more (titanium turnbuckles, remove side guards, trim/aerate front bumper/skid plate are some easy wins), but not worth it to me.
I also put a close up of the battery tray. Sits nice and low and can retain the stock sideguards which is what I'm going for. I'm pretty happy!
Can anyone post underside pics of their KH, TLR, BCE etc.. chassisieses? I'm wondering if they have the same extra screw hole. If so, I'll digitize my plans and hardware list and send them for anyone interested. Otherwise, this might be a bumps specific design unless you want to drill and countersink some holes.
I'm sure it can be lightened a lot more (titanium turnbuckles, remove side guards, trim/aerate front bumper/skid plate are some easy wins), but not worth it to me.
I also put a close up of the battery tray. Sits nice and low and can retain the stock sideguards which is what I'm going for. I'm pretty happy!
Can anyone post underside pics of their KH, TLR, BCE etc.. chassisieses? I'm wondering if they have the same extra screw hole. If so, I'll digitize my plans and hardware list and send them for anyone interested. Otherwise, this might be a bumps specific design unless you want to drill and countersink some holes.
04-29-2012, 07:24 PM
Well i raced the SCTE outdoors today man its a fun truck to drive ! And won the main with 16 trucks running together ! Now heres the not so good stuff i tried out the 3,5,2 diff setup on a dry hardpacked track. Well while there is a good amount of off power steering the on power steering is lacking so im going to try out 5k in the front diff . The center diff with 5k seems fine but could use 7k maybe not sure . The rear diff well its not to good it was a couple of times where i had wheelspin and comming out of the turns i could tell they where going diffrent speeds and did catch me off guard. So i may try 3k in the rear diff.
And the stock springs are not to great after i ran them the whole day they wouldnt spring back intill i fully push down the front and rear of the truck and i even added some more preload also . So what springs should i use front and rear that are stiffer than the stock ones but not to stiff ? I did reduce
my droop .
Also the steering rod metal balls did wear out i tried everything to loosen them up and they just kept on tighten up . So its time for the HA upgraded ones !
And the stock outdrives seem pretty good still but i will get the Lightweight HD ones though. The stock shock towers actually looked straight by eye anyways lol.
But im getting the Carbon towers also.
Oh yea the 4600 Tenshock motor has crazy top end speed and the torque is just enough but its a smooth motor . However man it felt hot touching it after 5 min runs it was at 149 degress but i dint temp the endbell though . So i tried out a 14t for a 10 min it was about the same temp so i need to run a fan on the motor these 4x4 Short course run pretty warm/Hot ! The 15t pinion wasnt any better i could tell i was starting to lose some power somewhat.
And the stock springs are not to great after i ran them the whole day they wouldnt spring back intill i fully push down the front and rear of the truck and i even added some more preload also . So what springs should i use front and rear that are stiffer than the stock ones but not to stiff ? I did reduce
my droop .
Also the steering rod metal balls did wear out i tried everything to loosen them up and they just kept on tighten up . So its time for the HA upgraded ones !
And the stock outdrives seem pretty good still but i will get the Lightweight HD ones though. The stock shock towers actually looked straight by eye anyways lol.
But im getting the Carbon towers also.
Oh yea the 4600 Tenshock motor has crazy top end speed and the torque is just enough but its a smooth motor . However man it felt hot touching it after 5 min runs it was at 149 degress but i dint temp the endbell though . So i tried out a 14t for a 10 min it was about the same temp so i need to run a fan on the motor these 4x4 Short course run pretty warm/Hot ! The 15t pinion wasnt any better i could tell i was starting to lose some power somewhat.
Anybody ?
04-29-2012, 07:40 PM
Stock truck?
Front: Black spring, 30 oil, piston 3
Rear: Orange spring, 30 oil, piston 4
For the heat - are you running timing in your ESC? If so, take that out. I'm actually running a 13T pinion in my Tekin 4600. If your motor is like the Tekin, then you probably want to be in the 13 or 14T range. I ran 15 and it was crazy fast.
Since 3-5-2 didn't work, try 5-5-3, or bump to 7-5-3 like you were thinking about. I think 3 in the front and 2 in the rear is probably just too thin.
Rather then go stock and make changes one by one, you really might want to adjust directly to Aaron Lane's setup and then fine tune from there. I think to get that all you need are the new spring packs and a bag of pistons. And I think you need the swaybar kit.
Front: Black spring, 30 oil, piston 3
Rear: Orange spring, 30 oil, piston 4
For the heat - are you running timing in your ESC? If so, take that out. I'm actually running a 13T pinion in my Tekin 4600. If your motor is like the Tekin, then you probably want to be in the 13 or 14T range. I ran 15 and it was crazy fast.
Since 3-5-2 didn't work, try 5-5-3, or bump to 7-5-3 like you were thinking about. I think 3 in the front and 2 in the rear is probably just too thin.
Rather then go stock and make changes one by one, you really might want to adjust directly to Aaron Lane's setup and then fine tune from there. I think to get that all you need are the new spring packs and a bag of pistons. And I think you need the swaybar kit.
04-29-2012, 07:54 PM
Stock truck?
Front: Black spring, 30 oil, piston 3
Rear: Orange spring, 30 oil, piston 4
For the heat - are you running timing in your ESC? If so, take that out. I'm actually running a 13T pinion in my Tekin 4600. If your motor is like the Tekin, then you probably want to be in the 13 or 14T range. I ran 15 and it was crazy fast.
Since 3-5-2 didn't work, try 5-5-3, or bump to 7-5-3 like you were thinking about. I think 3 in the front and 2 in the rear is probably just too thin.
Rather then go stock and make changes one by one, you really might want to adjust directly to Aaron Lane's setup and then fine tune from there. I think to get that all you need are the new spring packs and a bag of pistons. And I think you need the swaybar kit.
Front: Black spring, 30 oil, piston 3
Rear: Orange spring, 30 oil, piston 4
For the heat - are you running timing in your ESC? If so, take that out. I'm actually running a 13T pinion in my Tekin 4600. If your motor is like the Tekin, then you probably want to be in the 13 or 14T range. I ran 15 and it was crazy fast.
Since 3-5-2 didn't work, try 5-5-3, or bump to 7-5-3 like you were thinking about. I think 3 in the front and 2 in the rear is probably just too thin.
Rather then go stock and make changes one by one, you really might want to adjust directly to Aaron Lane's setup and then fine tune from there. I think to get that all you need are the new spring packs and a bag of pistons. And I think you need the swaybar kit.
Yup its the stock truck . Im not sure about using a team driver setup though i had some before on my other trucks that dint fit my driving and i like doing my own anyways. The timing on my motor i bet there is some but i need to get the Toro programing card i like the Esc though ! Yea the 15t pinion was crazy on the straight to much .
The 14t was better more control.
Im going to try 5,5,3 diff setup for sure. Them stock springs you listed im getting for sure.
The swaybars il take a look at them the stock ones do look pretty thin.
04-29-2012, 08:07 PM
I was running a RX8 and the motor ran great with it but it stopped working. I put in the MMP and it started cogging when I turned hard left. I readjusted endpoints for stearing took off and it ran flawless. ZERO cogging at all since setting end points. I personally like the MMP better not because it does a better job but because I like the Castle link firmware.
Basically, does the MMP fan come on briefly when you switch the whole system on (as part of the MMP startup routine), or at any time at all? During stationary tests, whenever I have the sensor wire plugged in, the fan never comes on.
Thanks!
04-29-2012, 08:33 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
I was completely joking, there's some long time readers here who have had to read 1999+ pages of chassis debates (which always ended in the one the owner had is the best). I have the TLR and I love it, and I've seen one crack (near screw holes).
04-29-2012, 08:38 PM
Diff fluids, i have some AE fluids laying around would it be ok to use those?
04-29-2012, 08:46 PM
04-29-2012, 08:57 PM
Ive used the Associated diff oil there not bad but the thinner oils they have do seem to break down quicker than other brands ive used i mean turning black quicker . But there cheap and my LHS stocks them so its better than paying shipping 
But i would use it since you have it.
The longest lasting and most constant diff oil ive used is Mugen diff oil ! Worth the price .
But i would use it since you have it.
The longest lasting and most constant diff oil ive used is Mugen diff oil ! Worth the price .