9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
12-22-2011, 04:20 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
I do apologize for this as I was going off of everything I knew. I do find it interesting that you feel we would take the time and energy to send some to one place and some to a different place. I promise we are not doing this and I am the one that took my time to go into the warehouse and dig though all of them just to be sure.
However I do think the current gears are sub par and I personally have had several issues as have several of my fellow racers. Along with missing teeth and just a rough overall motion of the diff, the biggest indicator is the amount of shavings that are in the diff cup even after one race. The fluid is no longer clear and is a opaque gray full of tiny reflective metal partials. Its obvious that the gray coloring isnt from the plastic cup, the shafts or shims as after cleaning the gears with motor cleaner there they have apparent wear. That can't be right.
I would just like to replace them and be done with it but I guess that won't happen any time soon. I'm assuming the last shipment was probably several hundred maybe even thousands of units and that will take some time to deplete.
12-22-2011, 06:03 PM
Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
12-22-2011, 06:10 PM
Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
12-22-2011, 06:11 PM
Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
12-22-2011, 06:14 PM
Excellent.
Now if I can learn to avoid the dogshit in the backyard all should be good then.
Now if I can learn to avoid the dogshit in the backyard all should be good then.
12-22-2011, 07:02 PM
Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
12-22-2011, 07:14 PM
+1 to what Casper is saying about the Diff Gears. My truck is 4 months old, Still on the stock Diff Gears and Pins. I take my diffs apart weekly just to check them and freshen up the Oil. If you have the newer gears and pins, For get about it and drive the truck. No worries.
12-22-2011, 07:17 PM
Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
12-22-2011, 07:18 PM
Too much is being put on these diff gears. It was a problem to start with becuase the pins wore so bad the gears went out of mesh. Yes the new ones are better. That does not make the older ones bad. All of us have been running them for a long time now. If the pins are good the gears last. End of story.
12-22-2011, 07:34 PM
Check out the nano-techs 6600mah 65-130C!!
12-22-2011, 07:37 PM
Panda-PR's Right, Get em while you can.
The live cart is claiming 480+ available
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
The live cart is claiming 480+ available
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
12-22-2011, 07:38 PM
Here are the pictures of what I believe are the updated ones.
12-22-2011, 07:42 PM
i forget the name of it but i seen it somewhere on here. it goes on the center driveshafts to protect/stop the set screw from coming out? if anyone could tell me what thats called. thanks.
12-22-2011, 07:43 PM
Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
12-22-2011, 07:47 PM
Too much is being put on these diff gears. It was a problem to start with becuase the pins wore so bad the gears went out of mesh. Yes the new ones are better. That does not make the older ones bad. All of us have been running them for a long time now. If the pins are good the gears last. End of story.
Thanks..