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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-22-2011, 04:20 PM
  #26251  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
I do apologize for this as I was going off of everything I knew. I do find it interesting that you feel we would take the time and energy to send some to one place and some to a different place. I promise we are not doing this and I am the one that took my time to go into the warehouse and dig though all of them just to be sure.
I do appreciate your quick response as well as personally checking the warehouse and I don't think you intentionally meant for us to buy the current gears in a malicious way. To reduce stock or what ever.

However I do think the current gears are sub par and I personally have had several issues as have several of my fellow racers. Along with missing teeth and just a rough overall motion of the diff, the biggest indicator is the amount of shavings that are in the diff cup even after one race. The fluid is no longer clear and is a opaque gray full of tiny reflective metal partials. Its obvious that the gray coloring isnt from the plastic cup, the shafts or shims as after cleaning the gears with motor cleaner there they have apparent wear. That can't be right.

I would just like to replace them and be done with it but I guess that won't happen any time soon. I'm assuming the last shipment was probably several hundred maybe even thousands of units and that will take some time to deplete.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:03 PM
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Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?

The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?

The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
nothing to be worried about. it chews it all up and spits it back out like all of its other competition
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Suteki
Whats the general consensus on the open spur / pinion design on the SCTE and generally running around?

The fact it's open kind of worries me as most of my use won't be on a track and what tracks I do run won't be compact clay but some rather loose dirt. Bit worried about throwing debris up into the chasis and between the gears. Something to be concerned about?
Nope, should be fine. I run on a dusty,loose track, and have no issues. Its just like a 1/8th scale buggy.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:14 PM
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Excellent.

Now if I can learn to avoid the dogshit in the backyard all should be good then.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:02 PM
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Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.

If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-pro4.jpg   Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-pro42.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:14 PM
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+1 to what Casper is saying about the Diff Gears. My truck is 4 months old, Still on the stock Diff Gears and Pins. I take my diffs apart weekly just to check them and freshen up the Oil. If you have the newer gears and pins, For get about it and drive the truck. No worries.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Linkdead
Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.

If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
Thanks for the heads up, shouldnt using a washer of some sort also fix this issue? I also have another question...... When I rc'ed before i would ue mostly stock motors i would pull them part and build them the way I found best, teflon shims instead of metal ones used high content silver brushes, varied springs on theushes, I had a motor dyno and lathe set up my stock motors RPM would usually be around 35,000 using the methods I have learned regaurding brushless the 2800kV motor that came with my scte my unloaded RPM is only like 22,000 besides monsterous torque throughout the powerband and low to no maintence whats the deal? Am i missing omething? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance. Im planning on the 46/
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Too much is being put on these diff gears. It was a problem to start with becuase the pins wore so bad the gears went out of mesh. Yes the new ones are better. That does not make the older ones bad. All of us have been running them for a long time now. If the pins are good the gears last. End of story.
seriously!!!! the gears are fine! I have one of the original 1st run kits, I put chrispins from the begining and have probably 500 pack or so on the original gears running the castle 2400 4 pole on 3s lipos. About 2 weeks ago i freshened up my diff oils and the only wear i could find was the small shim into the alum block and that was minimal at best. Refilled and still running strong!
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:34 PM
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Check out the nano-techs 6600mah 65-130C!!
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:37 PM
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Panda-PR's Right, Get em while you can.

The live cart is claiming 480+ available





http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:38 PM
  #26262  
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Here are the pictures of what I believe are the updated ones.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-img_20111222_200819-1-.jpg  
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:42 PM
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i forget the name of it but i seen it somewhere on here. it goes on the center driveshafts to protect/stop the set screw from coming out? if anyone could tell me what thats called. thanks.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Linkdead
Just a heads up on the tekin pro 4 motors. The stock motor mount screws are just a bit too long and will dig into the case of the motor. My suggestion is to remove the front end bell, screw the motor mount onto it, and slowly file away each screw until it is flush with the end bell.

If you already mounted a pro 4 and torqued down the screws, remove the front end bell and inspect the motor casing. It will be marred, this can cause aluminum shavings to be sucked into the rotor during operation. An exacto knife will easily clean up the motor case.
so the stock 3x10mm screws are to long? would you recamend going to the 3x8mm?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Too much is being put on these diff gears. It was a problem to start with becuase the pins wore so bad the gears went out of mesh. Yes the new ones are better. That does not make the older ones bad. All of us have been running them for a long time now. If the pins are good the gears last. End of story.
i bought mine 2 months ago,so should i update the pins and shims or does it have updated ones ...also,do i need to seal anyhthing up when i install Diff fluids?...im installing the HD outdrives.....and was thinking about buying the chris stuff..pins ,shims.steel blocks....
Thanks..
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