Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
#2281
Tech Regular
Ryan or Casper
On your guys setups it says droop is set by shock length so I take it that you guys are not running droop screws. How are you measuring shock length? Is it from end to end or from center of the shaft eye to center of the cap eye?
thanks
On your guys setups it says droop is set by shock length so I take it that you guys are not running droop screws. How are you measuring shock length? Is it from end to end or from center of the shaft eye to center of the cap eye?
thanks
#2283
does the kit comes w pinion for the motor? if i do need to get new pinion wat pitch (32?48?) do i need? wat is mod 1 ?
thanx
thanx
#2284
#2285
#2286
#2287
Castle 1415 4 pole for sale in the classifieds
#2288
Rear A-Arm problem, manufacturing defect?
So I finally got my truck together and put 4 packs through it today. First off, let me say that I love this truck. I threw my buddy's Gridirons on it and had a blast at Gulf Coast Raceway (we were there for the Texas State Series race Saturday).
With just the stock setup, the truck was great, I had no major complaints or anything, although I do plan to tear it down now and do the diffs/shocks.
However on to my issue.
Running the last pack in a relatively slow section of the track, I caught a small piece of black pipe (that black plastic pipe everyone uses) and it pulled the pin that the rear hub carrier sits on straight through the END of the A-arm. The end of the arm SPLIT exactly on the lines where the mold markings are. It was really bizarre, I barely clipped the thing and the end of the arm opened up.
Has anyone seen anything like this?
I don't mind buying arms, although no one seems to have ANY anywhere .
Could this be a manufacturing issue? Has anyone else seen this? I'm telling ya, it's the oddest thing. Split right on the end/edge of the arm where the mold marks are.
Maybe Losi will warranty it for me since it was all of 30 minutes old.
Regardless, I love the truck. Just wish I could find some arms to buy. I'd like to get 30 or sets.
With just the stock setup, the truck was great, I had no major complaints or anything, although I do plan to tear it down now and do the diffs/shocks.
However on to my issue.
Running the last pack in a relatively slow section of the track, I caught a small piece of black pipe (that black plastic pipe everyone uses) and it pulled the pin that the rear hub carrier sits on straight through the END of the A-arm. The end of the arm SPLIT exactly on the lines where the mold markings are. It was really bizarre, I barely clipped the thing and the end of the arm opened up.
Has anyone seen anything like this?
I don't mind buying arms, although no one seems to have ANY anywhere .
Could this be a manufacturing issue? Has anyone else seen this? I'm telling ya, it's the oddest thing. Split right on the end/edge of the arm where the mold marks are.
Maybe Losi will warranty it for me since it was all of 30 minutes old.
Regardless, I love the truck. Just wish I could find some arms to buy. I'd like to get 30 or sets.
#2289
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Hey guys, I though I might share a few pics of how my truck exactly how it came off the track from the main
Here are the AKA super soft Gridirons that I ran for 1 practice run, all through qualifing, and the A main. Barely knocked the edge off
Novak 4.5 geared 15/40 came off the track at 135 after 8 minutes
Havok Pro SC speedo. Ran around 110 except the one run that the fan fell off. Do your self a favor and don't use the provided plastic fan screws. I ended up using 2 - 2mm screws to securely fasten the fan down to the heat sink. You will have to put them both in the same side. If you try to put them in diagonal from each other you will warp the fan case and put the fan blade in a bind
Xcelorin 60C 6000 battery was awesome all weekend! had enough mah to go 10 if need be. As mentioned before the high C battery is key for these 550 motors.
Shot with race body on. Check out the sweet painted in grille and head lights!
Thanks to Greg at Gregs Graf-x for all of my paint work including the box body.
Here are the AKA super soft Gridirons that I ran for 1 practice run, all through qualifing, and the A main. Barely knocked the edge off
Novak 4.5 geared 15/40 came off the track at 135 after 8 minutes
Havok Pro SC speedo. Ran around 110 except the one run that the fan fell off. Do your self a favor and don't use the provided plastic fan screws. I ended up using 2 - 2mm screws to securely fasten the fan down to the heat sink. You will have to put them both in the same side. If you try to put them in diagonal from each other you will warp the fan case and put the fan blade in a bind
Xcelorin 60C 6000 battery was awesome all weekend! had enough mah to go 10 if need be. As mentioned before the high C battery is key for these 550 motors.
Shot with race body on. Check out the sweet painted in grille and head lights!
Thanks to Greg at Gregs Graf-x for all of my paint work including the box body.
#2290
To get a 100% accurate #'s you should charge it Immediately off the track, Not a day or 2 later when some voltage has stabled itself and will take a little more/less then it would have Right after the race.
#2293
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
Hey guys, I though I might share a few pics of how my truck exactly how it came off the track from the main
Here are the AKA super soft Gridirons that I ran for 1 practice run, all through qualifing, and the A main. Barely knocked the edge off
Novak 4.5 geared 15/40 came off the track at 135 after 8 minutes
Havok Pro SC speedo. Ran around 110 except the one run that the fan fell off. Do your self a favor and don't use the provided plastic fan screws. I ended up using 2 - 2mm screws to securely fasten the fan down to the heat sink. You will have to put them both in the same side. If you try to put them in diagonal from each other you will warp the fan case and put the fan blade in a bind
Xcelorin 60C 6000 battery was awesome all weekend! had enough mah to go 10 if need be. As mentioned before the high C battery is key for these 550 motors.
Shot with race body on. Check out the sweet painted in grille and head lights!
Thanks to Greg at Gregs Graf-x for all of my paint work including the box body.
Here are the AKA super soft Gridirons that I ran for 1 practice run, all through qualifing, and the A main. Barely knocked the edge off
Novak 4.5 geared 15/40 came off the track at 135 after 8 minutes
Havok Pro SC speedo. Ran around 110 except the one run that the fan fell off. Do your self a favor and don't use the provided plastic fan screws. I ended up using 2 - 2mm screws to securely fasten the fan down to the heat sink. You will have to put them both in the same side. If you try to put them in diagonal from each other you will warp the fan case and put the fan blade in a bind
Xcelorin 60C 6000 battery was awesome all weekend! had enough mah to go 10 if need be. As mentioned before the high C battery is key for these 550 motors.
Shot with race body on. Check out the sweet painted in grille and head lights!
Thanks to Greg at Gregs Graf-x for all of my paint work including the box body.
#2295
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Man It's hard to keep up over here on rctech. I think you guys added 30 pages in a few days! It's easier to keep up over on rcshortcourse. But to all that want to, please feel free to PM me any questions since it is hard to go back 30 pages to find the all of them that are directed at me. I don't want anybody to think that I ignored any questions