Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
Picked up the TLR kit today, Had 2 bad shock caps
I dont wont to do the shuffle with horizon. o well.
I dont wont to do the shuffle with horizon. o well.
Got the TLR rear torque rod and tried to install it. Problem is the eye loop that is supposed to mount onto the rear diff case doesn't line up. Ended up shaving some plastic off the diff case.
anybody else have this problem?
anybody else have this problem?
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I just finished putting mine together and for the most part it came out good except on the front half. The steering seems like there is a lot of slop from side to side and up and down. If I tighten the screws into the steering ankerman more then it binds. As for the front carriers, there's not much I can do there. Anyone have a solution to this. I just finished the SC10 4x4 as well and while I have not drove either one yet the SC10 4x4 feels a little bit more solid. All the parts fit nice and tight with no slop at all. But we will see how each will handle. I got 2 for me and my wife and I will give her the choice of which one she wants.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
front drive shaft ? has anyone got a picture of where you putting the grease to stop wear and tear
my truck is 6 months old and i have just broke the 1st one after a very heavy use i might add
my truck is 6 months old and i have just broke the 1st one after a very heavy use i might add
good luck
If you want my suggestion, stay away from 1/8 motors. They are WAY heavy and have to be geared to the moon on 2S to be fast. Castle 1410 is in my opinion the very best motor out there for this truck, especially if your track does 10 minute (or longer ) mains. You can have the hammer down for a solid 10 minutes with that motor and still have battery left over. Other motors are good, like the new tekin short course motors, but you will have to drive carefully if you do long mains as they take a bit more juice.
Something has to be wrong there. I have crashed as hard as anyone and in many months of racing this truck, I haven't broken a ball end. I have pulled the threads out of one, even with the 8ight ti rods, so I wish Losi would make them a bit tighter around the rod, but I wouldn't call the ends themselves weak.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
i have run 4pole 1410 3800 tekin 4600kv novak 550 4.5 and a 2650 in a 5 min main they all pull about the same mah in 5 min with in 100 or so. my 2 top motor choices are 1410 3800 4 pole and the tekin 2650. But i really want to try the viper 5150 out.
Are those ReVtech batteries constant 60c or 60c burst and is there any sort of warranty on them like other good batteries?????
I just got my Race spring kit last night and I got the truck hooked up with Blacks up front and Oranges in the rear
I just got my Race spring kit last night and I got the truck hooked up with Blacks up front and Oranges in the rear
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
Mine were a little tough to thread on the first time, but with a little patience, they went on fine and I'm sure they will be ok after a few times on and off. Is that the problem you are having? It felt like I was cross threading it or something, but again mine at least went on with a bit of care and patience.
good luck
good luck
i will give it another go. thanks.
Tech Adept
Almost ready for a comeback
It has been 20 years since I raced R/C. I decided to come back and go all in and do it right the first time. I spent weeks on this thread doing research on how I wanted to mod my SCTE and started buying the electronics first. I decided that I would rather piece together a bad ass package over a few months then start out and mod along the way.
The electronics package that I have gone with is
-Zerun 120 amp ESC w/program card
-Tenshock SC401 4000kv
-Savox 1258 servo
-Gensace 5000ma 50c packs
-Professionally modded Flysky GT3b transmitter / receiver
-Triton EQ charger (snagged like new for 50 bucks at local track)
The reason why I waited on the kit was just in case I came across a modded roller for a good price. I just hate nickle and diming myself when I don't have to. I watched Ebay and the classifieds on a couple of forums and ended up winning a great roller on ebay that already had all of the essential hop ups on it except for an upgraded chassis. For $330 including shipping I got a roller minus tires and wheels that had the following mods.
-Losi aluminum hinge pin holders
-Losi carbon shock towers
-Lightened outdrives
-SNR diff brace
-Chris's hardened diff parts already installed
-TLR servo horn
-TLR aluminum shock tops
I have not even turned a screw on the roller yet. So this is what I have bought for it.
-RC shocks 2 stage pistons
-Revolutions Bearing Kit from Avid
-Hobbypartz took kit
-Hobbyparts car stand
My shopping cart over at Amain has this in it, plan on ordering all of it next week after the pay check.
-Front and Rear spring kits
-Sway bar kit
-TLR clamping hexes
-All of the set up tools
-1 Set of De racing wheels
-Jconcepts bar code tires
-Sticky kicks compounds
-RC screws stainless screw kit
-Droop Screws
-Left hand thread shock screws
-7k, 5k, 3k, diff lubes
-Various shock oil weights
-Lipo pack for transmitter
-Jconcepts SVt raptor body
I am still on the fence as to what chassis I want to get for it. I am willing to pay the extra price for the carbon fiber SNR unit if that is what will get me what I want. There are some opinions out there that it actually makes the truck so light that it kills the feel of it some. However, it is much easier to add weight to change the handling characteristics then it is to remove it from one of the aluminum units.
What ever chassis I get, I will be racing in early Nov. and that was my goal. I am going to be over a grand in by the time I am done. However, I know it will be worth it. This is so much cheaper than running my other car at the track. (2003 SVT Cobra)
I have hung out with the guys at the same race facility I used to race at 20 years ago and they are all cool. The track is the Coral Springs R/C raceway. Use to be called Coral Springs Roadrunners.
The electronics package that I have gone with is
-Zerun 120 amp ESC w/program card
-Tenshock SC401 4000kv
-Savox 1258 servo
-Gensace 5000ma 50c packs
-Professionally modded Flysky GT3b transmitter / receiver
-Triton EQ charger (snagged like new for 50 bucks at local track)
The reason why I waited on the kit was just in case I came across a modded roller for a good price. I just hate nickle and diming myself when I don't have to. I watched Ebay and the classifieds on a couple of forums and ended up winning a great roller on ebay that already had all of the essential hop ups on it except for an upgraded chassis. For $330 including shipping I got a roller minus tires and wheels that had the following mods.
-Losi aluminum hinge pin holders
-Losi carbon shock towers
-Lightened outdrives
-SNR diff brace
-Chris's hardened diff parts already installed
-TLR servo horn
-TLR aluminum shock tops
I have not even turned a screw on the roller yet. So this is what I have bought for it.
-RC shocks 2 stage pistons
-Revolutions Bearing Kit from Avid
-Hobbypartz took kit
-Hobbyparts car stand
My shopping cart over at Amain has this in it, plan on ordering all of it next week after the pay check.
-Front and Rear spring kits
-Sway bar kit
-TLR clamping hexes
-All of the set up tools
-1 Set of De racing wheels
-Jconcepts bar code tires
-Sticky kicks compounds
-RC screws stainless screw kit
-Droop Screws
-Left hand thread shock screws
-7k, 5k, 3k, diff lubes
-Various shock oil weights
-Lipo pack for transmitter
-Jconcepts SVt raptor body
I am still on the fence as to what chassis I want to get for it. I am willing to pay the extra price for the carbon fiber SNR unit if that is what will get me what I want. There are some opinions out there that it actually makes the truck so light that it kills the feel of it some. However, it is much easier to add weight to change the handling characteristics then it is to remove it from one of the aluminum units.
What ever chassis I get, I will be racing in early Nov. and that was my goal. I am going to be over a grand in by the time I am done. However, I know it will be worth it. This is so much cheaper than running my other car at the track. (2003 SVT Cobra)
I have hung out with the guys at the same race facility I used to race at 20 years ago and they are all cool. The track is the Coral Springs R/C raceway. Use to be called Coral Springs Roadrunners.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (79)
thanks for the crucial update.