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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Old 09-29-2011, 07:25 PM
  #21181  
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Originally Posted by DBL15
looks very nice mate

but god damn thats a heao of toe out your running there
yea a little bit but i like it that way and my lap times are liking it too
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:40 PM
  #21182  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
yup it has insane power but smooth. i have mine turned down to 75 CL, no timing and i still need to let off the throttle or i over shoot the triple , the 5.5 i had could barley do it and i had to be set up perfect. As far as havasu ill be there too, this weekend is my last weekend of running before then due to all my cars need rebuilt but ill be n tucson this weekend for kbrl.

the biggest thing was going down to 3-3-2 , that track has such insane bite 5-5-2 just doesnt let it rotate. from what i understand tho havasu is a low bite track so i wouldnt be suprised if i end up going to 5-5-2 over there
Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but I'm not understanding your guy's setup changes for high bite tracks. When the traction is high your going lower in diff oils to get the truck to rotate? Isn't that what camber links, toe and wheelbase at the rear hubs are used for? I don't know what kinda track you run on but when theres a good amount of traction on mine I'm going up in the diffs to put more power to the ground and if I need more rotation or steering I'm changing chassis setups not diffs. Not saying your incorrect just asking what your thought process is cuz maybe I'm wrong
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:53 PM
  #21183  
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i run 5,3,2 every where and i never have a problem with rotation.
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Old 09-29-2011, 07:58 PM
  #21184  
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Originally Posted by nitroal
i run 5,3,2 every where and i never have a problem with rotation.
I'm at 5-7-3 currently and have plenty of steering and rotation but I'm on power usually to which might make a difference. I just have to keep the rear from passing the front on one section of the track
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:11 PM
  #21185  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
The sc8 brace will work just like the Losi torque rod that the team guys use.I think the bce is a stiffer design as well ,hence it is not called the bce flex chassis LOL
They work a little differently due to how they mount. The RC8 brace will allow a little less torsional flex than the torque rod.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:15 PM
  #21186  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
They work a little differently due to how they mount. The RC8 brace will allow a little less torsional flex than the torque rod.
I just recieved my tlr torque rod today and I am extremely pleased with it so far, Ill be testing with it tomarrow for some practice and then a big race saturday.
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:20 PM
  #21187  
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I'm @ 5/7/3 too but I'm always on the throttle and more times than not on the podium too
I never understood the lighter diff fluids neither, especially on tracks that claim high grip
To be fair; I do run a custom carbon chassis with a custom layout that does make a difference over stock
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:39 PM
  #21188  
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I run 5/5/2 and 7/5/2 depending on the track and how I need to come out of the turns. other wise I use caster, swaybars, toe and rear hub adjustments to get the rest tuned.
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:50 PM
  #21189  
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Originally Posted by WideOpenThrottle RC
Maybe I've been doing it wrong all this time but I'm not understanding your guy's setup changes for high bite tracks. When the traction is high your going lower in diff oils to get the truck to rotate? Isn't that what camber links, toe and wheelbase at the rear hubs are used for? I don't know what kinda track you run on but when theres a good amount of traction on mine I'm going up in the diffs to put more power to the ground and if I need more rotation or steering I'm changing chassis setups not diffs. Not saying your incorrect just asking what your thought process is cuz maybe I'm wrong
Yup, your general train of thought is usually right. I actually tried that for a whole winter indoor season in vain. For some reason, the SCTE needs a light fluid in the center to get rotation from mid corner on out...likely because of the long wheelbase to width ratio. We were getting beat on by the Durango pretty good for a whole indoor season, but are now very close to being on par....mostly by going to light fluid in the center diff.

Most people think their SCTE rotates nice....and it does...until you run against a dialed in Rango. Those trucks rotate like lightening, albeit at the cost of stability...but indoors where the track is generally smooth stability is a mute point. I've tried about every diff combo possible, and no doubt about it, a light center diff just plain WORKS in the SCTE

I also don't notice any adverse effect in acceleration. I did, when I first tested it, but with the new springs that are a little more progressive, the truck doesn't squat as much under acceleration and seems to have very balanced traction front and rear when under power. Because of this, it doesn't seem to make a difference when having light fluid in the center anymore in terms of acceleration, but it does make that little bit of difference rotating out of the turn.
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:52 PM
  #21190  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
They work a little differently due to how they mount. The RC8 brace will allow a little less torsional flex than the torque rod.
Ya I am gonna switch over to the TLR rod once Pegasucks gets them in stock LOL. Just was assuming that it would work close to the tlr one instead of the short one in regards to O.P.`S steering problem
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:56 PM
  #21191  
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Dang Rid! Love the Sig! Looks like you have been cleaning up!Congrats!
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:00 PM
  #21192  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
One of my Nanotechs takes 6700mAh after its run down , the other takes a little over 6200mAh . Can they be underrated by THAT much ?

I charge with a Hyperion 610 DUOII so it should be pretty accurate right ?
All my Nanotechs take around 6200mah. If you are balance charging, which I rarely do for 2s packs, you can get skewed numbers as the charger is dumping power into a resistor system to balance the cells. Some chargers do a better job than others at compensating the readout for this.

As for the capacity, coming up 100mah is nothing. I usually don't even look at the numbers for the first dozen charges or so. Once they have some cycles, and you charge them when they are a bit warm, they should hold over the rated capacity
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:06 PM
  #21193  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Dang Rid! Love the Sig! Looks like you have been cleaning up!Congrats!
Thanks

It's been a long second half of the season, you've prolly noticed I haven't posted much lately....I have gotten burned out a little

I'm taking some time off and going hunting for a couple months!!

I did do an interview for www.area54rc.com though, you guys should go check it out!! Hopefully his typos are fixed by now, lol.

Also a nice pic of the Green Monster on the front page, lol

And for any Radio and tire Manufacturers out there, I need a sponsor!!
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:36 PM
  #21194  
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What tires would you guys reccomend for indoor clay (can get a little dry sometimes) Currently running bar codes , wanna try something different maybe beams pink or... ?
Thanks
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:39 PM
  #21195  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
One of my Nanotechs takes 6700mAh after its run down , the other takes a little over 6200mAh . Can they be underrated by THAT much ?

I charge with a Hyperion 610 DUOII so it should be pretty accurate right ?
are you balance charging them? if so it will say it put more in that it really did.
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