9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-14-2011, 08:51 AM
Thank You Dan, I wish I could shed some weight off myself with titanium and a dremel ?
Thanks Pal !
Where does the Front Gold springs fall in here with it's rating ? I tried comparing by hand and find it difficult to acomplish this. They seem to be the same as the Blacks (like BL420)
08-14-2011, 08:52 AM
08-14-2011, 09:07 AM
Thank You Dan, I wish I could shed some weight off myself with titanium and a dremel ?
Thanks Pal !
These socks are for Truggy springs purchased via Fleabay that I cut down, they fit loose/barely snug and seem not to cause any binding that I can tell ? Trapping dirt; most guys tear down their trucks down after every race day anyway so I think shaking out the spring with sock is gonna be easier and last far longer than the the boots that rip from breathing on them IMO ?
Where does the Front Gold springs fall in here with it's rating ? I tried comparing by hand and find it difficult to acomplish this. They seem to be the same as the Blacks (like BL420)
Thanks Pal !
These socks are for Truggy springs purchased via Fleabay that I cut down, they fit loose/barely snug and seem not to cause any binding that I can tell ? Trapping dirt; most guys tear down their trucks down after every race day anyway so I think shaking out the spring with sock is gonna be easier and last far longer than the the boots that rip from breathing on them IMO ?
Where does the Front Gold springs fall in here with it's rating ? I tried comparing by hand and find it difficult to acomplish this. They seem to be the same as the Blacks (like BL420)
rear silvers = new rear orange spring
Those are the only 2 that I know and the only ones I cared about.
08-14-2011, 09:08 AM
What is everyone doing with ball ends? Mine are wearing really bad. my steering ones have alot of slop in them now. Should i just get the stockers or has someone found something better that the aluminium ones?
08-14-2011, 09:13 AM
08-14-2011, 09:26 AM
SNR CF Chassis and CF Brace/Steering Linkage Top Plate
Got my SNR 3.7mm carbon Fiber chassis on and did some testing yesterday (I've come to realize, any time we run with something new, we'll just call it testing, kinda like how a doctors business is called a practice 
) The hardware went together without any hiccups, all the holes aligned perfectly and the countersunk screws were where they were supposed to be. The ONLY thing that needs attention, is that I didn't heat up and bend the sideguards so they'll fit flush. I'm going to pull them off, put them on my stock chassis, and Steve told me the best way to do it is heat them up with a heat gun (doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a simple $8 from harbor freight will work. Then bend them upwards so they fit flat, the hit them with a blast of Denatured alcohol from a spray bottle and that'll harden and cool them so they'll stay in the position. I've seen 2 SCTE's in person that this method has been used on and they look as if they were made like that and fit perfectly like stock. It certainly lightened my truck up a bit. I have 2 trucks, so I put it on the truck that I'm going to make ultra light. I still have a lot of lightening to go, this one still has the stock towers and hingepin holders on still. so just remember that. Prior to putting the CF chassis on, full RTR weight was 6.69lbs. Here's some pix from yesterday with Chassis installed. I'll give a write up of it's performance later when I get home from surfing in a few hours. But wanted to put this out there for everyone.
Without battery and body (since everyone's bodies and batteries will weigh differently depending on their equipment)
Fully loaded with Battery and body
I also added the front CF chassis brace/steering assembly top plate for a little bling and to tie in all the cf together. I really REALLY like this piece. the new version that's milled out instead of the arrows looks a lot better than the arrows on the original. So whoever it was that suggested it, good call as it now looks a lot more like it belongs there instead of an aftermarket add on. It's a 2 piece design so it eliminates that small plastic piece that I always seem to lose then miraculously find on the ground or under something. The bottom piece is milled to fit perfectly where it meets the front diff housing, then the top piece is milled for the mounting point to the front chassis brace. When you see the pix you'll understand better, but this milling and 2 piece design allow it to sit flat. Also, the top piece is countersunk so you will need to use flat head screws. I prefer this because it looks cleaner. The screws I used are the same size that fit the center diff top plate which I believe are 540-1/2". Here's a few pix. I mounted my transponder on top of there fitting flat across it after I took the pix. I used the silver buttonhead screw that goes into the chassis brace as the mounting screw through the ear on the transponder. Here's the pix.
Underside of two pieces
Mounted
) The hardware went together without any hiccups, all the holes aligned perfectly and the countersunk screws were where they were supposed to be. The ONLY thing that needs attention, is that I didn't heat up and bend the sideguards so they'll fit flush. I'm going to pull them off, put them on my stock chassis, and Steve told me the best way to do it is heat them up with a heat gun (doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a simple $8 from harbor freight will work. Then bend them upwards so they fit flat, the hit them with a blast of Denatured alcohol from a spray bottle and that'll harden and cool them so they'll stay in the position. I've seen 2 SCTE's in person that this method has been used on and they look as if they were made like that and fit perfectly like stock. It certainly lightened my truck up a bit. I have 2 trucks, so I put it on the truck that I'm going to make ultra light. I still have a lot of lightening to go, this one still has the stock towers and hingepin holders on still. so just remember that. Prior to putting the CF chassis on, full RTR weight was 6.69lbs. Here's some pix from yesterday with Chassis installed. I'll give a write up of it's performance later when I get home from surfing in a few hours. But wanted to put this out there for everyone.Without battery and body (since everyone's bodies and batteries will weigh differently depending on their equipment)
Fully loaded with Battery and body
I also added the front CF chassis brace/steering assembly top plate for a little bling and to tie in all the cf together. I really REALLY like this piece. the new version that's milled out instead of the arrows looks a lot better than the arrows on the original. So whoever it was that suggested it, good call as it now looks a lot more like it belongs there instead of an aftermarket add on. It's a 2 piece design so it eliminates that small plastic piece that I always seem to lose then miraculously find on the ground or under something. The bottom piece is milled to fit perfectly where it meets the front diff housing, then the top piece is milled for the mounting point to the front chassis brace. When you see the pix you'll understand better, but this milling and 2 piece design allow it to sit flat. Also, the top piece is countersunk so you will need to use flat head screws. I prefer this because it looks cleaner. The screws I used are the same size that fit the center diff top plate which I believe are 540-1/2". Here's a few pix. I mounted my transponder on top of there fitting flat across it after I took the pix. I used the silver buttonhead screw that goes into the chassis brace as the mounting screw through the ear on the transponder. Here's the pix.
Underside of two pieces
Mounted
08-14-2011, 10:02 AM
Tech Adept
I wish Losi would separate those new springs. Having to spend 30 bucks to get 2 sets of springs sucks!!!! Losi is becoming a marketing nightmare. Their vehicles are awesome, but this nickel and dime stuff gets irritating. That said I really like my SCTE it's the best 4wd out there right now.
Steve
Steve
08-14-2011, 10:04 AM
I've received a couple PM's requesting pictures w/o battery on a scale, here ya go fella's.
I'm still useing stock hardware and a BEC so even a bit more could be lost but I think it's plenty light enough considering my temps have maxed out at 117* after 4 packs back to back on our local indoor track WOOT !
I'm still useing stock hardware and a BEC so even a bit more could be lost but I think it's plenty light enough considering my temps have maxed out at 117* after 4 packs back to back on our local indoor track WOOT !
08-14-2011, 10:19 AM
I've received a couple PM's requesting pictures w/o battery on a scale, here ya go fella's.
I'm still useing stock hardware and a BEC so even a bit more could be lost but I think it's plenty light enough considering my temps have maxed out at 117* after 4 packs back to back on our local indoor track WOOT !
I'm still useing stock hardware and a BEC so even a bit more could be lost but I think it's plenty light enough considering my temps have maxed out at 117* after 4 packs back to back on our local indoor track WOOT !
Eddy
08-14-2011, 10:24 AM
I had a bunch of slop in the steering also. As I replace rod ends I'm using LOSA6046 with the stock pivot balls. They seem to hold the rod threads better and have held up well where I have used them.
08-14-2011, 10:33 AM
BCE chassis
HD LW outdrives
Lundsford TiNi Buckles
Chris A. TiNi hinge pins and rear carrier pins.
SnR; drag link,hinge ping holders, CD top plate
Losi CF towers
Hyper/ TT battery tray swiss cheesed
AE Alum Screws
Shortened all wires
No Losi Hard anod aluminum except shock collars and caps
Creative dremeling
Last edited by Bondonutz; 08-14-2011 at 12:29 PM.
08-14-2011, 10:36 AM
he made a carbon cal induction hood for his mustang show car along with hundreds of other pieces. i have a feeling it should be sick even tho its an "at home job"
not knocking snr but it will be as good if not better
doubt me, idc. lots of talk on internet forums. assholes just always have something to say
08-14-2011, 10:39 AM
O-well, I'll order several packs to have on hand when I wear those out I guess.
08-14-2011, 10:45 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
My backyard track is hard packed top soil and my LHS carries proline tires. Im looking for some recomendations for what proline tires would work best on my track in dry dusty conditions and in moist conditions after a good rain. Ive ran the calibers and liked them ok, not as much as AKA enduros. Has anyone tried holeshots or snipers on hard packed dusty topsoil surface? Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
08-14-2011, 10:48 AM
My backyard track is hard packed top soil and my LHS carries proline tires. Im looking for some recomendations for what proline tires would work best on my track in dry dusty conditions and in moist conditions after a good rain. Ive ran the calibers and liked them ok, not as much as AKA enduros. Has anyone tried holeshots or snipers on hard packed dusty topsoil surface? Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
if you HAVE to have proline
indoor to outdoor
bluegroove to dusty to sandy
and they last a long time!