Eli

iTrader: (15)

The black is some sort of paint or coating. Id leave them, may have it on there for a reason that im not gonna begin to try to explain

Sterling Racer

Best described, "more bite" from the front, in the middle of low speed corners. i'd like to use a little less breaking.

I'm also thinking about the 3.5HRC as my set up (tweaked evan's) has a lot of stability and traction with the 3.0/3.5 LRC

Sterling Racer

Right on, I'm in

Thanks!

Jeremey

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried moving the front shocks to the inside hole on the tower?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

To start, I would keep the LRC block, maybe go from the 4.0 to the 3.5... and go to 25 degree total front caster instead of 30... your medium and slow speed sections will gain more steering throughout the entire corner... wont gain any in the highspeed sections, like the sweeper.

Jeremey

iTrader: (1)

I’m looking for more forward traction coming out of tight 180’s on a somewhat loose outdoor track. I’m running the Evens setup which works great on the local indoor track but not so much on the outdoor track, the car is easy to drive just not that fast.

So far I’ve tried moving the battery back, adding weight to the rear (in the battery compartment) and adding front droop (-2 turns). The only change that I liked was the added droop, I put the battery back and removed the weight.

Here are some of the things that I was thinking of trying for more forward traction.
- Adding more front droop (removing limiters).
- Lighter springs
- Lighter oil
- Moving the rear hubs forward

The tires of choice or DD’s or Hole shots

Anyone with suggestions on what to try first or what worked for them?

-Jeremey

Eli

iTrader: (15)

i would go to a white rear spring or maybe even the grey spring. Moving the hubs forward a mm will help a lot to. if youre running 3mm droop spacer id go to 2mm. 25w rear shock oil and make sure the o-rings are sticking a lot on the shafts. you can insure this by loosening the o-ring cap a little unless you have the low friction o-rings

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

My car came around when I needed a little more steering into and thru the middle of the corners by going to the HRC 3.5 toeblock, leaving the 5* casterblocks but changing to the 20* kickup for a total of 25* caster as the Cpt just described.
I still wanted just a touch more steering into and thru corners without losing traction exiting and raising the spindles/lowering the chassis with all the spacers under the spindles was just the thing to dial it in on my medium to hi bite clay indoor tracks here.

Shocker

iTrader: (15)

...

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Go back to kit setup. It is a great starting point. I havn't changed much to mine. It is very consistent. I run on outdoor rough/rutted track.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Ran the Complete Evans set up on an outdoor loose track where those tire's were the tire of choice as well. Here's what I changed and the car was dialed.
-Change shock oil to 22.5 front and rear
-moved rear hubs forward one small spacer
-took off 2mm wheel hex and put stock one's back on
-due to me running a tekin you can adjust current limiter for wheel spin

Sterling Racer

Yes, thats where it is now. thx


You might try screwing the rear shock back up assuming they're out 2 turns as on the Evan's set up.

jdogger1

iTrader: (5)

Dustin Evans wins at Nor Cal Off-Road Champs with the TLR 22 Buggy! Check it out at www.rcinsider.com!

www.rcinsider.com

inconceivable

iTrader: (3)

The 3.5 HRC block also woke up my steering as well (freed up the rear end I suppose). I run on the same tracks as Cuda (medium to high bite clay). Running the Evans setup, but unlike Cuda, I run the 25deg Brass kickup with 5deg caster blocks. Tried the 20deg several times, just not my style I guess. To put it into perspective, prior to this block my best times on the track I run was a 14 lap 5:12 or so. After the block, I got down into the 14 lap 5:02 range. This was the only change to my prior setup.

Sterling Racer

Sounds great

are you running the brass shim?