Davidka

iTrader: (86)

The better question is, why would you put a graphite chassis on a car that was designed around an aluminum one?

We did this back in the RC10 (B1) days, the car always ran better with the aluminum tub.

That said, $240 is crazy high. So is $125 for a flat sheet.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Trying to get the shock set up right for my track. The stock set up was WAY too stiff with 27wt oil front and rear with yellow springs in the back and red up front, with 55 pistons. I was running middle outside in the front, and middle inside in the rear. The only thing that was not stock was the bladders were cut out.

I will now run 56 pistons with 22.5wt in the rear with yellow or white springs, and 25wt or 27.5wt with red springs in the front. Bladders cut.

I run at SRS which is a medium bite dirt track, watered for club racing.

Am I going in the right direction?

I asked my local pros for their set ups. One was running 22.5 in the rear and 27.5 in the front, but I can't recall the springs he used.

The other pro was using some custom cut, progressive rate, double secret spring and piston set up that I was not even going to attempt to replicate.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I would ask Chris Wheeler (local) what his setup is, and give that a try.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Hey Frank...

Shouts for your latest posted setup, it's working well for me.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

sent you a pm with his set up

twigman08

This may be a weird/dumb question to ask, though I'm beginning to work on my 22 for the first time.

First thing is I want to try a different rear toe setup. What is the best/easiest way to getting to the rear toe block to change it out? What needs or should be taken off to get to it fastest? Thanks.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Thanks, I am glad it is working well.

Thanks for helping.

You need to remove the tranny:

2 screws from bottom of chassis
2 screws from top/front of tranny case
2 screws from the wing mount to tower
1 .050" screw from toe block

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

Yup , his set up is great for Srs .

chaseman1

Whats a good start for gearing with an 8.5?
Im running at wcrc if that helps. Thanks

Kromulous

iTrader: (15)

Are the front spindle bearings metric on the 22?

What about the rear hub bearings, metric as well?

Thanks, Krom.

allan42r

5x10 the same as most clutch bell bearings. losi has a heavy duty 5x10 for the eight, come 2 in the package for like 7.00 +/-

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

22/78 or 21/76

Yes, all metric.

needknees

iTrader: (6)

I'm having exactly the opposite problem. I'm running Root's setup (save for the brass kick shim, which should be here tonight!) on my Mod 22 and a slight variation on my stock car. The rear the mod car is TOO locked down and I get wicked on-power understeer. It's extremely stable and easy to drive, but on our local very tight, small indoor track it seems to lack steering. Stock is very similar, save for a 3.0* HRC toe block. Really seems to let the car rotate around corners better.

The added weight of the brass kick shim should help get some steering back into this thing but as it sits now, it's a little lazy feeling. Confidence inspiring but I have to change my lines up in order to get back on the power sooner. Any tips to get some more mid corner and on-power exit steering?

Thanks!

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

Few things you can try

Stiffer rear spring
Add more travel limiters to front shocks
Add more anti squat
Add washers to inside front ball stud
Add washers to outside rear ball stud
Add some toe-out to front

Edit: try different front or rear tire that will increase front bite and reduce rear bite

ChadB.

iTrader: (21)

I race on a similar style track as well. A few things you can try is going stiffer in rear. Start with Yellow's, if it still pushing on power then go to Pink. I would also try putting in 2 degree anti squat, this is what I run and I have more than enough on-power steering. Also, make sure you have 2-3 mm of limiters in the front shocks. This really helps a lot. The most important and first thing you want to check is your dual rate. If it is down to low, you aren't taking advantage of all the steering this thing has.