celt

iTrader: (5)

Getting the shocks right can be a dexterity thing that you almost have to watch someone do it, then it's pretty easy. And, to get them to match can be time consuming.

I personally put on the bleeder caps (LOSA5006) that come with a rubber seal and bleeder screw. For sure not necessary, but you can get your shocks perfect every time, very, very quickly.

In a closed system, without some sort of volume compensator, you will have the shaft pull back in due to the weak vacuum.

If you struggle with the shocks, the bleeder caps might be an option for you.

flap jack

iTrader: (6)

Cut the middle of the bladder off and just run the ring of the bladder and you will get no rebound.

Wes Lawrence

iTrader: (5)

+1 On the bleeder caps. you can change shock oil and get even shocks in about 13.8 seconds. I'm fully prepared to be made fun of for running rtr parts but i'm cool with it.

Y2KStangRacer

iTrader: (2)

Quick question could someone tell me what the beifits and or differences i will see between the 20 deg and 25 deg front kick angle. Also what is the effect of running more or less rear anti-squat.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

When bleeding the shocks, try pumping them equally, 10 times or so then check the rebound and bleed them while the shaft is at rest. This works well for me and helps to get them all equal.
It will feel different if the shocks are not pumped up so trying to imitate the shocks in use seems to be the hot ticket.
I'll do the same thing when checking final ride height, work the suspension then check it.
Nothing new here, just sayin cuz maybe someone forgot.

Chad Smith

Ok thanks. I will give the rtr caps a try. So it is normal for the shaft to suck it self back in the shock body?

Chad Smith

I do the same thing to check rebound on each shock. When you say bleed the shock at rest do you mean when the shaft is fully extended?

hcw5733

iTrader: (12)

I build my emulsion shocks with the RTR caps as in the following video - works every time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-qlH-agAHE

celt

iTrader: (5)

Sure...

I mean, if you do the final bleed with the shaft all the way in, you've essentially created a weak vacuum right? Assuming that you don't let air back in.

After tightening the cap or bleeder screw, you've a closed system, so when you pull the shaft all the way back out, something must take the place of the mass that was once the shock shaft.

There is nothing to do that, so a slight vacuum is created, and without load, the shaft naturally pulls back in a pinch.

After all...

"Nature abhors a vacuum!"

Aristotle

And if Aristotle said it, I assure you it's true.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I pump the shock and let the shaft rebound, where it stops is where I leave it and then crack the cap. I repeat this til the shaft quits rebounding after pumping it up.
What I'm trying to acheive is to have the shock shaft stay where I leave it, "near" 0 rebound. If I pump the shock and stop with the shaft 1/2 out, it should stay there, stop with the shaft all the way in it should stay there. (I always end up with a tiny bit of rebound cuz when all rebound is gone, too much air gap is left)
It won't be the same if you don't pump it up the same so I try to be consistant, 10 pumps etc.
Then put the spring on it, put it aside and move to the next one. Trust your work and mount em on the car.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Keep in mind, it is impossible to achieve zero pressure, positive or negative. The shaft takes volume which must be compensated for by air (silicone is not compressible). There will always be some positive or negative rebound pressure in part of the stroke. Chances are, we would not notice a difference on the track between a pair of shocks with slightly different rebound characteristics.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

First day with my new 22 today, must say I am very impressed, been a long time since I ran a 2wd buggy, but this is so easy to drive...Was going to run stock (17.5 blinky) but thinking to run mod instead. Ran a 13.5 today and was longing for more power......

Anyway, question: What gearing is good for a 13.5?

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

i posted exactly how to build the shocks a couple pages up...

"Smiley"

iTrader: (171)

The RTR Caps make the Emulsion Shocks soo much easier to build. Here is mine, After not getting to run it the past few months due to too many Nitro Races. All ready for the track again :

Xyzzy

iTrader: (32)

The AE and Kyosho kits I have built included little foam donuts for the ball ends. There are none in my TLR kit. Are foam donuts dorky or unneeded? I have a few sheets of Kyosho foam donuts if necessary.

Also, the 22 truck, in step C8, uses a M3×8 (TLR5930) for the motor but the same step for the 22 buggy uses a M3×6 (LOSA6201). I have noticed several improvements in the manual (extra information, etc.) so I wonder if the M3×8 should be used on the buggy. Everything else about the transmission is the same other than that. (My 22 buggy manual shows a gen 1 diff nut but the kit came with a gen 2 version.)

Speaking of the gen 2 diff nut, is the optional aluminum diff nut holder (TLR2948) better than the gen 2 diff nut or is it now obsolete?

Thanks!