Spdjunky

iTrader: (16)

That wasn't very nice RB FIVE, but funny as hell!! Lol

sprint5h

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=RB FIVE;10052760]You've been building diffs for 20 years and you don't know what you need or how to do it right ?

This is what I hate about these threads..... I ask a simple question as to what needs done to put the XXX DIFF in the 22 case, and instead of getting a straight forward answer I get "my diff blah blah" I know a lot of team guys have went back to this diff because the new losi ones are not good. I have an associated diff that was built over a year ago and feels better than than a 2 week old 22 diff. All I wanted to know is the bearing sizes I would need and if it would need shimmed..... I guess I should have known better...

rider313

iTrader: (94)

Simple. Take the xxx-cr diff gear your choice of balls and assemble it with 22 out drives.

Dave H

Haven’t heard of anyone putting a complete XXX diff in, but I have heard of some guys using the old diff gear with 12 balls. Supposedly the balls run more in the center of the rings. Don’t know if it really improves the diff, thought it was mostly a case of using up parts on hand, especially packs of balls.

sjenkins97

iTrader: (7)

yup, i did this little mod and love it. just seems to be a bit simpler to get adjusted. dont really understand why but it worked for me.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

[QUOTE=sprint5h;10052823]you seem to have an attitude problem...if you cannot understand how to properly build a diff, buy an rtr....use a gear diff...if you want an xxx dif, buy the parts and try and put one on....i have not heard of anyone who has done this...

i will say i found the issue with my diff, i had been running the diff looser than it needed to be....once i got them set properly, they last a very long time...

sprint5h

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=Matt M.;10052908]Again no need for this kind of response.... I have not insulted anybody on here, so why would you insult me?

The 3 or 4 guys that posted ahead of you gave me the info w/o being jerks, so why would you even feel the need to comment?

BTW Thanks you guys for the responses. Thats what I was unsure about whether the old gear would fit the 22 outdrives.

Thanks

Chuck 21

iTrader: (1)

I had the exact same problem with my brand new 22 right from about the
3rd battery is where it started.

I found the problem the second race day. The left rear bearing exploded
(the inner small bearing). This thing was going out from the 3rd battery I'm
sure. I just never noticed it till it went boom (I guess because you don't
expect this from a new kit)

So I went out next heat and the 22 was dialed for 4 minutes out of a
5 minute heat then it started to want to swap ends again off jumps.
I took the 22 back to the pits and checked the right rear wheel bearing.
Sure enough it was loose and when I took it out it fell apart in my
hand.

I have replaced the bearings with Kyosho bearings as they are built
proof and I had them handy. I'm about to replace all bearings in my 22
with Kyosho bearings now I know the 22 bearings are not reliable.

I talked with every 22 buggy driver at the track at my last race and
they all confirmed the bearings in the 22 suck (their words not mine)
and have had many fail...

This is just my findings, I hope it helps.. The 22 is a great buggy other
then this problem I've had...

Dadaman

iTrader: (20)

What oil are people starting off with in the geared diffs?

sjenkins97

iTrader: (7)

1000 wt is what i tried. The buggy drives different with the gear than the ball. I tried it because my ball diff was blown out. Honestly, i am faster with the ball diff than the gear. However, i believe that a person could make it work if they are willing to work with it and learn how to drive it. It is deff. different feel.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

On carpet we started running the gear diffwith 5000 AE fluid... time will tell how long it lasts but the ball diff was a pita and it had to be pulled out every 3-4 race nites. So far two races later I am in heaven.

For my ball diff I had to use AE thrust bolt and nut to maintain a consistant setting

chaseman1

I just got my 22 and hearing the horror stories of the ball diff is making me lean towards the gear diff. It may be a different feel but I will adapt to it and enjoy the lack of costs for rebuilds.i

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Just in case you missed it,

Run the 22 ball diff tight AFTER it is broken in properly which is done by tightening it a little at a time while working it so as not to dent the diff rings or flatspot the balls. Run it slowly while holding one wheel at a time and retightening til the diff is very, very tight.
It needs to be tighter than you are used to but will still be butter smooth.
It cannot be allowed to bark, ever.
If it is allowed to slip, even a little, it will no longer be smooth feeling.
Slip it often and it is junk.

Tight diff, less than tight slipper and that diff will be good for a long time.

I know, redundant huh?

Team guys are not using any secret parts.

So many diff experts are not finding this diff easy to use cuz I feel they are trying to keep the diff as light as possible and are just not realizing that this car runs better with a tight diff and has a tendancy to be able to slip a loosely set diff and destroy it.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

gospel truth

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

FWIW, there is no reason that the balls would flat-spot or dent the rings unless the diff were tightened beyond the point when the spring bottomed out. Just can't happen. It's a good idea to spin the diff with the motor on each side to burnish a line in the rings and settle the tension.