1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
12-06-2011, 12:31 AM
Tech Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: I'll have the roast duck with mango salsa....
Posts: 15
Rear clamping hex wheel adapter
Is there a clamping wheel hex with stock offset?
12-06-2011, 01:38 AM
Yes their is an aluminum stock size hex ive seen them but dont have a part number
12-06-2011, 04:15 AM
Now I have my new 22 together and being this thing has the absolute
worst instructions I've ever worked with in 30 years of R/C racing"
Where is everyone setting the front ride height from?
The aluminum chassis or the plastic between the front arms??
I've worked in hobby shops for years and built hundreds if not thousands of
kits for customers and this 22 has hands down the most worthless
instructions I've ever seen. I have no idea what Losi/Horizon was thinking
(or not) when they made these ones for the 22. Anyone new to R/C is in
big trouble trying to put this thing together. No wonder so many people
are complaining about all kinds of problems with the 22 on all the forums.
The newbees have no chance of building the 22 correctly following the
book Losi/Horizon calls instuctions.
Nice kit except for the shock shafts (mine had the coating missing in
spots right out of the box) the diff balls are junk,the diff lube is junk,
the diff screw is junk, other then that this kit has the highest
quality parts and best fit I've ever seen..
Losi/Horizon would have a home run with the 22 buggy if they did a
little home work for newbee racers..
worst instructions I've ever worked with in 30 years of R/C racing"
Where is everyone setting the front ride height from?
The aluminum chassis or the plastic between the front arms??
I've worked in hobby shops for years and built hundreds if not thousands of
kits for customers and this 22 has hands down the most worthless
instructions I've ever seen. I have no idea what Losi/Horizon was thinking
(or not) when they made these ones for the 22. Anyone new to R/C is in
big trouble trying to put this thing together. No wonder so many people
are complaining about all kinds of problems with the 22 on all the forums.
The newbees have no chance of building the 22 correctly following the
book Losi/Horizon calls instuctions.
Nice kit except for the shock shafts (mine had the coating missing in
spots right out of the box) the diff balls are junk,the diff lube is junk,
the diff screw is junk, other then that this kit has the highest
quality parts and best fit I've ever seen..
Losi/Horizon would have a home run with the 22 buggy if they did a
little home work for newbee racers..
That pretty much sums it up for me too, same problems you listed and I've built my share of cars/trucks. I hated this build, and working out all the problems of a first shipment kit. I just converted to mid motor, that took about 4hrs lol. Couldn't be happier now except I think the rear bearings are getting really sloppy after 10 batteries, so the rear wheels/axles wobble already.
12-06-2011, 04:37 AM
yes...
TLR2930
For reference;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Width-TLR-22
I have them now and they work as prescribed.
TLR2930
For reference;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Width-TLR-22
I have them now and they work as prescribed.
12-06-2011, 05:57 AM
I post this not to say that those that are having problems are unique, I think every kit ever made you will have some people assemble their cars with issues, and I am not sure what problem some may be having with the manual and kit, but I have been building and racing RC cars (privateer, sponsored, and factory team sponsored) since 1983-84 timeframe and the 22 has been the easiest kit to assemble and get right the first time due to the excellent manual and parts fit. Right out of the box I would have to say the best packaged kit ever.
The B4 kit I put together a few years ago I thought was fantastic and required very little part flash cleaning, but this TLR 22 kit is now the best in my eyes. TLR have done a fantastic job, and the only thing you have to watch for is to make sure you read the upper corner of each illustration, to make sure you are just building the standard rear engine kit, since there are also steps (and parts call-out) intermingled at the right places should you decide to build it mid-engine.
Could have it been made clearer?, everything ever made could be made clearer with hindsight being 20/20 vision, but all in all I think they have done a great job here with this kit.
The B4 kit I put together a few years ago I thought was fantastic and required very little part flash cleaning, but this TLR 22 kit is now the best in my eyes. TLR have done a fantastic job, and the only thing you have to watch for is to make sure you read the upper corner of each illustration, to make sure you are just building the standard rear engine kit, since there are also steps (and parts call-out) intermingled at the right places should you decide to build it mid-engine.
Could have it been made clearer?, everything ever made could be made clearer with hindsight being 20/20 vision, but all in all I think they have done a great job here with this kit.
Last edited by Ruffy; 12-06-2011 at 08:25 AM.
12-06-2011, 06:24 AM
Gear diff vs ball diff
I have tried both in the 22 and here is the difference as I see it:
a ball diff makes the car square up faster coming out of corners, you can dive into a corner with brake and then punch out of the corner. The problem is the car doesn't rotate as well as with a gear diff.
A gear diff lets the car continue cornering without squaring up as much which is why it rotates so much better. With a gear diff you have to wait until the car completes the corner to hit the gas.
A gear diff also has a lot more snap because it can't slip and only has the slipper to go through.
The losi gear diff has a moderate amount of friction from the 4 o-rings, so whichever oil you use feels heavier than in other gear diffs.
The big benefit of the gear diff is consistency and maintenance. This is the same as brushless motos vs brushed. The losi gear diff is probably the best I have seen for off road buggies.
I run the gear diff and find the car works much better.
a ball diff makes the car square up faster coming out of corners, you can dive into a corner with brake and then punch out of the corner. The problem is the car doesn't rotate as well as with a gear diff.
A gear diff lets the car continue cornering without squaring up as much which is why it rotates so much better. With a gear diff you have to wait until the car completes the corner to hit the gas.
A gear diff also has a lot more snap because it can't slip and only has the slipper to go through.
The losi gear diff has a moderate amount of friction from the 4 o-rings, so whichever oil you use feels heavier than in other gear diffs.
The big benefit of the gear diff is consistency and maintenance. This is the same as brushless motos vs brushed. The losi gear diff is probably the best I have seen for off road buggies.
I run the gear diff and find the car works much better.
12-06-2011, 06:31 AM
I love the gear diff tango...as mentioned above, electric touring car went through this same debate not too long ago. "Ball diff is faster" "Gear diff won't hold up to modified" "Gear diffs are for ready-to-runs" Then Marc Reinhard wins an IFMAR Modified Touring Car World Championship with a $40 Chinese gear diff in his car and stands everything on it's head.
You can bet there was a big bonus in it for him as now Tamiya can now sell kits with less expensive gear diffs and make more $$. Marc has won a ton in the past so it is more reasonable to think that he won despite the gear diff, not because of it. The AE guys hashed this out with the B4 and SC10 and unanimously agreed that the ball diff is faster. You can bet they will put gear diffs in their TC's since their customers will accept, even ask for it.
If you want to go all in you could get the Bumps and Jumps Kryptonite gear diff for the SC10..
12-06-2011, 06:52 AM
Gear vs Ball Diffs
The whole debate is pretty silly. Everyone wants what they run to be the best and will argue it to death. I've ran both and both work very well.
I have built but haven't ran the gear diff in my 22 yet, but have flip-flopped with the SC10. Typically I prefer a gear diff because of ease/cost of maintenance. The ball diff definitely has the advantage of being able to make adjustments on the fly though. The gear and ball diffs have different feels but I'd be hard-pressed to say either is "better". It's all preference. Sure, the race kits come with ball diffs because that's what most racers prefer. Most racers also prefer the yellow wheels but I don't think I'm any slower running white or black.
I have built but haven't ran the gear diff in my 22 yet, but have flip-flopped with the SC10. Typically I prefer a gear diff because of ease/cost of maintenance. The ball diff definitely has the advantage of being able to make adjustments on the fly though. The gear and ball diffs have different feels but I'd be hard-pressed to say either is "better". It's all preference. Sure, the race kits come with ball diffs because that's what most racers prefer. Most racers also prefer the yellow wheels but I don't think I'm any slower running white or black.
12-06-2011, 07:36 AM
Now I have my new 22 together and being this thing has the absolute
worst instructions I've ever worked with in 30 years of R/C racing"
Where is everyone setting the front ride height from?
The aluminum chassis or the plastic between the front arms??
I've worked in hobby shops for years and built hundreds if not thousands of
kits for customers and this 22 has hands down the most worthless
instructions I've ever seen. I have no idea what Losi/Horizon was thinking
(or not) when they made these ones for the 22. Anyone new to R/C is in
big trouble trying to put this thing together. No wonder so many people
are complaining about all kinds of problems with the 22 on all the forums.
The newbees have no chance of building the 22 correctly following the
book Losi/Horizon calls instuctions.
Nice kit except for the shock shafts (mine had the coating missing in
spots right out of the box) the diff balls are junk,the diff lube is junk,
the diff screw is junk, other then that this kit has the highest
quality parts and best fit I've ever seen..
Losi/Horizon would have a home run with the 22 buggy if they did a
little home work for newbee racers..
worst instructions I've ever worked with in 30 years of R/C racing"
Where is everyone setting the front ride height from?
The aluminum chassis or the plastic between the front arms??
I've worked in hobby shops for years and built hundreds if not thousands of
kits for customers and this 22 has hands down the most worthless
instructions I've ever seen. I have no idea what Losi/Horizon was thinking
(or not) when they made these ones for the 22. Anyone new to R/C is in
big trouble trying to put this thing together. No wonder so many people
are complaining about all kinds of problems with the 22 on all the forums.
The newbees have no chance of building the 22 correctly following the
book Losi/Horizon calls instuctions.
Nice kit except for the shock shafts (mine had the coating missing in
spots right out of the box) the diff balls are junk,the diff lube is junk,
the diff screw is junk, other then that this kit has the highest
quality parts and best fit I've ever seen..
Losi/Horizon would have a home run with the 22 buggy if they did a
little home work for newbee racers..
Many of the things you call "junk" were used by many people and their kits seems to be working great. If you've built so many kits, I'm sure you have many of your own diff parts, oils, and lubes that you prefer.
Quit bashing and get out there and race!
12-06-2011, 07:52 AM
I was in this rc car hobby seen 1992,building so many car,but this is the first 2wd buggy i built and yes,i had to read the manual carefully to full understand.What i did was match the part( pre-built)to the area before screw it together.
I came out building it perfectly,only screw up on ball diff that set too loose.notice it after 1 pack of battery run.now using gear diff with shock oil 70wt.Had order parts for my ball diff,so that i had both to set the car nicely to the track i race.
Cheers
I came out building it perfectly,only screw up on ball diff that set too loose.notice it after 1 pack of battery run.now using gear diff with shock oil 70wt.Had order parts for my ball diff,so that i had both to set the car nicely to the track i race.
Cheers
12-06-2011, 08:23 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
If you've really built that many kits then it shouldn't really have been a problem. I'd only built one kit before and mine came together just fine. I use this thing called the Internet where there is lots of information from the community, including Losi employees.
Many of the things you call "junk" were used by many people and their kits seems to be working great. If you've built so many kits, I'm sure you have many of your own diff parts, oils, and lubes that you prefer.
Quit bashing and get out there and race!
Many of the things you call "junk" were used by many people and their kits seems to be working great. If you've built so many kits, I'm sure you have many of your own diff parts, oils, and lubes that you prefer.
Quit bashing and get out there and race!
not because the instructions were great lol"
I notice you cant answer my question either because your instructions were so
clear too" lol"
12-06-2011, 08:30 AM
Chuck, I set my ride height to the bottom of the aluminum chassis up front, before the bend up and not to the plastic. I don't use a ride height gauge, just a simple metirc scale (ruler), up to the edge of the aluminum chassis just before the bend.
In the rear, I set the car on the edge of a glass flat-top and using the same metric scale, I set it to the bottom of the aluminum chassis, nearest to the transmission cutout.
Like many others, I currently use 24mm front and rear, if you wanted to know.
Hope this helps.
In the rear, I set the car on the edge of a glass flat-top and using the same metric scale, I set it to the bottom of the aluminum chassis, nearest to the transmission cutout.
Like many others, I currently use 24mm front and rear, if you wanted to know.
Hope this helps.
12-06-2011, 08:45 AM
Tech Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: I'll have the roast duck with mango salsa....
Posts: 15
12-06-2011, 08:46 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Chuck, I set my ride height to the bottom of the aluminum chassis up front, before the bend up and not to the plastic. I don't use a ride height gauge, just a simple metirc scale (ruler), up to the edge of the aluminum chassis just before the bend.
In the rear, I set the car on the edge of a glass flat-top and using the same metric scale, I set it to the bottom of the aluminum chassis, nearest to the transmission cutout.
Like many others, I currently use 24mm front and rear, if you wanted to know.
Hope this helps.
In the rear, I set the car on the edge of a glass flat-top and using the same metric scale, I set it to the bottom of the aluminum chassis, nearest to the transmission cutout.
Like many others, I currently use 24mm front and rear, if you wanted to know.
Hope this helps.
chassis also for setting the front. I was hoping to hear from more people on
this. Maybe I will yet?
Thanks again for your input"
12-06-2011, 09:14 AM
