losi b

iTrader: (5)

Same here. First shipment car with maybe 150 packs through it. I built a completely new diff because the outdrives were showing a lot of wear. I was very surprised when I opened the original diff up. It looked great except for the worn outdrives. I do, however run my first 5 or so packs with a extra loose slipper. New diff was built with only the parts that came in the TLR diff rebuild kit. It also feels great after 20 or so packs.
I still think that a loose slipper, at least for a while, is key to a good, long lasting diff.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

I use pledge on everything. Just take a small paint brush and use a little pledge to brush the car down. It cleans the dust/dirt off well and helps keep new dirt from sticking next time out. Been using pledge for this purpose for years on both 1/8 and 1/10 scale cars. Just thought I would share. Also works very well on bodies.

As for the diff, I'm a complete noob when it comes to ball diffs and I built mine with all stock parts. So far so good, but I've only run the car a couple times yet. Time will tell, but so far I don't see any issues. One thing I did do was put a drop of CA glue on the nut before pressing it into the holder.

vito

my new diff lasted for five feet. it was not the diff it was my set up it was loose from me.

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

I've heard of guys sanding the diff rights to make sure they are flat, what grit sand paper are you using if you're doing this?

porkchop

you never get the rings as flat as b fast does and for the time it would take spend the 20 bucks

Chris87

Hi guys,

iīve just finished my 22 and have a question about the diff. Because its my first ball diff and i donīt know how to handle it right.

When i turn one wheel slowly i can feel very little bumps in my diff. The diff isnīt broke in. Are these bumps normal and go away when in brake in my diff?

Regards Chris

mjk1210

iTrader: (9)

400 then 600. Usually takes just a couple minutes with medium pressure. I use a little shock oil on the sand paper as well. More of a wet sanding that way.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

As I was typing this I saw MJK's post and was going to tell you the exact same thing

rob martin

iTrader: (66)

Did u tighten it till it was snug or really crank it down?

Chris87

Iīve tighten it until i canīt turn the outdrivers with my hand. It is definately not too tight. May be itīs because i havenīt sanded the diff rings?

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

I was overly cautious breaking in my stock diff due to the accounts of weak diff balls. I just barely tightened it, then broke the diff in by running at low speed on the bench with one wheel held for 1minute, switched wheels, 1 minute, and repeated this 3 times. Tightened the diff a tad (1/16-1/8 of a turn) and repeated the process until I had the diff response that I wanted. It took about 5 repetitions to get there and some time, but the stock diff lasted me 7 race nights before I decided to replace it and then I purchased B-fast diff parts for the rebuild.

If you tighten it all the way down without a break in process, you can flat spot your diff balls and ruin them before you get to run.

Sean B.

iTrader: (13)

You don't need to sand the rings when they are new. In fact, the rings that come with the 22 are some of the best I've seen come in a kit. They come perfectly cross hatched already. Just need to be sure to use carbide balls and version two diff screw and nut (or Asscociated screw/nut) and your all set.

My diff stays tight and is smooth as silk, no need for any "b fast" crap

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

Do you have the part number for the version 2 diff nut and screw, or was it a running change with the same part number?

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Take this with a grain of salt because I havent had the best of luck building the 22 diff yet but when I assemble the diff halfs, I snug it about 1/16 of a turn as soon as I get tension on the balls. Between each snug down of the diff screw, I rotate the diff several times to avoid flat spotting the balls. When I've achieved the tension that I want. For break in, I hold one tire off the ground and let it spin for a while (I've never counted but I'm guessing 20-30 seconds). I repeat this for the opposite side and toss it on the track. The latest build (number 5 I think) with ceramic balls is doing pretty well but still isnt as smooth as I'd expect after so little use (or compared to other cars I've had over the years).

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I have a link to the Gen 11 diff nut in the post above. Not sure if they made it a running change with the screw but the stock screw fits the new nut.