big chris

iTrader: (51)

Multiple pads with the shorty pack.

porkchop

you just run the back strap you take the front one off

hell with my full pack i only run one strap

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

I'm running a shorty pack with the stock battery holder. It's the Promatch pack, which is 95x47x25 and Losi's is about the same.

poorboy racing

iTrader: (1)

looking forward 2 racing another class, just getting a losi 22, im going 2 be racing on clay, and was wondering what motor size 2 run , and what shock oil to start with, and i have some good lipo sadle packs so i was going 2 run them instead of a long pack and was woundering how it would do.

thanks look forward 2 being on the team ....

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

I have. It steering a lot more in-mid corner, but pushed more off. I prefer 30* total caster.

The short LiPo should help with that. Other than that, try to lengthen your rear camber link. I like 1-B, 3mm inside and 2mm outside.

If you use XXX pads, the front velcro strap will line up to go over the vertical foam, just in front of the bullets.

clintscreations

iTrader: (3)

Changed anti squat to 2deg....had 3.5 toe strap
Didn't wanna add weight to top of tranny cause I felt it was already swaying too much

Can't complain too much as it was my first night with the car

Wanted a shorty but track didn't have one

DHooter

iTrader: (27)

quick question on the hexes... i see there are standard, .75mm, and 1.5mm hexes.

so does that mean that i can add 1.5 mm to each side to equal 3 total mm to the rear using the 1.5mm hexes, and 1.5mm total using the .75mm hexes?

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Yes sir.

TWRC

iTrader: (14)

PW says there will be JConcepts wheels for the 22 available December 1st

KSimmonds

iTrader: (18)

You should have hit me up Clint, I had a shorty pack you could have tried. I run the short pack with 1-2 pads standing behind depending on bite that night. I've had good luck with the 1-B camber link in that back with 2mm under the ball stud at the hub and 2.5mm inboard. I've went up to 3* of anti-squat, as the car seems to jump and land nicer. Not sure where you were at ride height wise, but I'm running 24mm front and back, too. Green bar codes and ripps for tires.

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

Frank/Casper/All -

Finished building my 22. Went together fairly well. Screws were definitely tight gettin in the new TLR plastic!

However, the right side kingpin/caster block connection is binding. You can notice it when you let both arms drop (w/o shocks mounted). There is enough of a gap between the caster block/shim/arm, so that isn't the issue. I believe its becuase the plastic might be a little larger on the caster, or the king pin coating is a touch thicker. Is there a drill bit size I could run through the caster to free it up?

Also, the springs (notabley the front) appear to rub on pre-load adjusment collars, at about 3/4 compression. A noticeable 'click' noise is heard. I have tried to reposition them on the collar/spring cup in numerous ways.

Thx!

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

Have decided to make the switch to the dark side and pick up the 22 Just wanted to know what extra parts to keep in the parts bin, and what parts should be replaced right away with upgraded parts (I.E. aluminum rear hubs, stuff like that).

Chad Smith

This car is really hard to break. If you buy extra parts most will sit in the tool box

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

I've been told to switch out the stock diff balls (including thrust) right away. I went with the upgraded Tungsten Losi diff/thrust balls, but others are getting the BFast diff.

Also, if you read through this forum, the rear hub bearings blow out easily. Frank Root indicated to buy the losi 8 HD clutch bearings.



Per Frank, refer to the following for other upgrades:

DHooter

iTrader: (27)

awesome, Thank you...