TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
I think your right, the spring rate allows a faster unload to front and 1/2 a turn allows more upward travel in read leaning more weight up to the front. I would be curious how much anti-squat he has because that also comes into play when braking in for a corner.
We are running a few things different now. Try them all, or one at a time.
Orange Front Springs
3.0 Toe (LRC)
2* Antisquat
+.75 Hexes
27wt rear oil
0 rear limiting (not unscrewed either)
1-D rear link (or 1-B)
2mm inside, 1mm outside rear link
21/78 gearing (moves the motor forward)
20* and 25* are different, but roughly 1 square of weight.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the response Frank I'll give those setup tips a shot one at a time as my 22 is close to my liking. You to Cuda when are you coming down to be at West Coast on a Wednesday night?
Orange Front Springs
3.0 Toe (LRC)
2* Antisquat
+.75 Hexes
27wt rear oil
0 rear limiting (not unscrewed either)
1-D rear link (or 1-B)
2mm inside, 1mm outside rear link
21/78 gearing (moves the motor forward)
20* and 25* are different, but roughly 1 square of weight.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the response Frank I'll give those setup tips a shot one at a time as my 22 is close to my liking. You to Cuda when are you coming down to be at West Coast on a Wednesday night?
Where is everyone running the short lipo's positions wise?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
We are running a few things different now. Try them all, or one at a time.
Orange Front Springs
3.0 Toe (LRC)
2* Antisquat
+.75 Hexes
27wt rear oil
0 rear limiting (not unscrewed either)
1-D rear link (or 1-B)
2mm inside, 1mm outside rear link
21/78 gearing (moves the motor forward)
20* and 25* are different, but roughly 1 square of weight.
Orange Front Springs
3.0 Toe (LRC)
2* Antisquat
+.75 Hexes
27wt rear oil
0 rear limiting (not unscrewed either)
1-D rear link (or 1-B)
2mm inside, 1mm outside rear link
21/78 gearing (moves the motor forward)
20* and 25* are different, but roughly 1 square of weight.
As far as the short lipo, again, I prefer only one pad behind the battery for max traction and will move it forward only in extreme hi bite conditions which is super rare for me, even at WCRC I still run the battery 1 pad behind and do other stuff for more steering:
Smaller shim under rear inside camberlink ballstud 1-2.5mm
Smaller shim under spindle ballstud, less bumpsteer, 0-1mm
Red springs up front, Orange normally
These are my super quick changes that make a difference for me but generally I leave the car alone with the current Evans setup using the recent tweeks listed by Frank/Tripthreat above.
Money setup.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
So the latest team setups there not running any additional
droop in the rear(2 turns out).
droop in the rear(2 turns out).
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
Tech Master
iTrader: (52)
On the current evans setup where is the battery tray mounted stock holes or is it moved towards the rear, I'm currently running the excelorin shorty pack. I was just wondering what would work best?.
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
I mount the aluminum brace in the rear holes on the chassis and the mount. This moves the mount forward 10mm from the plastic mount location when put in the rear chassis holes. This is the same location as running 1 pad up, 1 down in front of the battery as we used to.
Goin to WCRC today, now actually. You gonna come down Qdude?
Fridays are pretty much out for me when it comes to racing. I'll probly be down there Wednesday. Good luck see ya soon.
Fridays are pretty much out for me when it comes to racing. I'll probly be down there Wednesday. Good luck see ya soon.
Put the finishing touches on it this afternoon.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Are the bump steer shims being placed on the rack or spindle end?