TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (51)
I need some more steering in the second half and exit out of the corner.
what could I do ?
my current setup on the front is :
orange springs
cut bladders
27.5wt oil
5 degree caster
-1 camber
20 kick angle
shock location is 3 on tower and outer hole on arm
camberlinks are long and no spacers
a little bit toe-in
I run out door clay track rear motor setup
what could I do ?
my current setup on the front is :
orange springs
cut bladders
27.5wt oil
5 degree caster
-1 camber
20 kick angle
shock location is 3 on tower and outer hole on arm
camberlinks are long and no spacers
a little bit toe-in
I run out door clay track rear motor setup
I'm loving my buggy, fighting the big 1/8 scale layout and finally feeling like I'm winning. Loving the 22. Update on the shims under the ballstud on the steering rack. Well the first 5 race weekends, 2 steering rack (outer part) replaced due to binding. The last 4 races I have been on the same one. Maybe part of it is that I crash less now but still taking big hits and no signs of issues.
Tech Regular
SP GT2.1 with a D3 8.5. No timing on can.
Hello guys, need some tips on setup. Rear traction is fine, just cant keep the car from pushing through the corners. Even rolling through the corner it pushes. It seems like I am driving it harder than I should have to. Willing to try anything. Let me know.
It is a clay track. Really hard packed with alot of 180 degree turns. Medium sized. Not alot of big jumps basically doubles. Running Bk Bars and Taper Pins on the front. Cut the bladders in the shocks. 27.5 weight in the front, and 25 weight in the rear. Stock kit springs. The rest is very close to stock.
Thanks.
It is a clay track. Really hard packed with alot of 180 degree turns. Medium sized. Not alot of big jumps basically doubles. Running Bk Bars and Taper Pins on the front. Cut the bladders in the shocks. 27.5 weight in the front, and 25 weight in the rear. Stock kit springs. The rest is very close to stock.
Thanks.
Last edited by Chad Smith; 10-16-2011 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Added Info.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (51)
Chad, you need to provide a little more info about your track and current setup. I am no pro but sometimes when our track is really wet and I have a bunch of traction mine pushes a bit. I shortened my rear camber link and moved my battery (shorty) a little further up to get a good balance of steering and traction. Shortening or lengthening the rear link is a quick easy step that really shows a response in the setup.
Chad, you need to provide a little more info about your track and current setup. I am no pro but sometimes when our track is really wet and I have a bunch of traction mine pushes a bit. I shortened my rear camber link and moved my battery (shorty) a little further up to get a good balance of steering and traction. Shortening or lengthening the rear link is a quick easy step that really shows a response in the setup.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The ESC is very smooth with great useable power on the 17.5 I'm running. The timing advance and boost features are awesome but Im running the newer firmware they released recently. So I would recommend buying the PC link as well. Its only needed for firmware upgrades but they will have software released soon. All of this is not needed for track side adjustments as the included Progauge does everything you could need to adjust including boost and ramp
Tech Adept
Yes and the best choice I have made next to buying the 22!
The ESC is very smooth with great useable power on the 17.5 I'm running. The timing advance and boost features are awesome but Im running the newer firmware they released recently. So I would recommend buying the PC link as well. Its only needed for firmware upgrades but they will have software released soon. All of this is not needed for track side adjustments as the included Progauge does everything you could need to adjust including boost and ramp
The ESC is very smooth with great useable power on the 17.5 I'm running. The timing advance and boost features are awesome but Im running the newer firmware they released recently. So I would recommend buying the PC link as well. Its only needed for firmware upgrades but they will have software released soon. All of this is not needed for track side adjustments as the included Progauge does everything you could need to adjust including boost and ramp
Tech Elite
iTrader: (92)
Chad, try the 3 rib fronts. Also unscrew your front shock ends a couple turns to get more droop. Or both.
It is a clay track. Really hard packed with alot of 180 degree turns. Medium sized. Not alot of big jumps basically doubles. Running Bk Bars and Taper Pins on the front. Cut the bladders in the shocks. 27.5 weight in the front, and 25 weight in the rear. Stock kit springs. The rest is very close to stock.
Tech Adept
Cut Bladders
I see almost everyone is using the cut bladder mod. I understand how to do it, what I want to know is, what happens to the air gap on top of the bladder inside the cap after oil is filled? Surely this will cause a lot of inconsistent piston movement? The bladder's purpose is to seal the air out and oil in, now there is nothing and the oil will slosh around inside the shock witha lot of air mixed in...
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (51)
I may fail at explaining my answer. But here it goes. If the shock sat for a long time I could see that maybe an air pocket would form at the top but once one cycle of the shock happened the air would mix with the oil (emulsion) and then there would be no air pocket and hence no "slosh". During use the air pocket could almost never form. I may be waaayyyy wrong but that's how I think babies are born.
I know some guys are running the AE gear diff in their cars.
Questions:
1. Is this the part? Associated #9827
2. Does it drop straight in or are mods required?
Thanks Losi luvvers
Questions:
1. Is this the part? Associated #9827
2. Does it drop straight in or are mods required?
Thanks Losi luvvers
Tech Initiate
Gear Diff coming out soon?
anyone know when?