1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
09-13-2011, 03:58 PM
#9826
There is a guy locally who runs the arms backwards and it does have a bunch of forward traction but I'm not completely sold on the idea. It will wheelie on demand on loose loamy dirt but it just doesn't seem as stable as mine. He beats me all the time with it but I just can't switch it yet. I'm going to build my other roller with the arms switched and see what I think over a long term.
09-13-2011, 04:22 PM
#9827
Yea ive been running the latest evans set-up and for me it actually doesnt steer enough at low speeds unless i break check the car in there and thats not how i drive so im trying to build on the setup a bit. My 7.5 took a dump in my 4wd soo im gonna try the octa since i already have it and see what happens before i buy another motor( i jus bought a 10.5 sonic motor). Btw where did you get the 82 spur?
27.5wt front and rear
1-D rear link
Shorty LiPo
2mm under inside of rear camber link
This will really improve the car for WC.
I know a longer link is supposed to give you more weight transfer, right? Lower/higher ball studs does what in theory?
Right now I have it at 1D and 5* got 3* but havent changed it yet.
On the track I do run on there's a 90* turn I treat as a sweeper while entering no problems but it goes into a 180 so there I may lose the rear end if I am not care full. My biggest problems are the 180s at speed. I know if it was a race I want to maintain momentum but I am losing it.
What do you guys do or setup for a 180* switchback?...thanks.
Right now I have it at 1D and 5* got 3* but havent changed it yet.
On the track I do run on there's a 90* turn I treat as a sweeper while entering no problems but it goes into a 180 so there I may lose the rear end if I am not care full. My biggest problems are the 180s at speed. I know if it was a race I want to maintain momentum but I am losing it.
What do you guys do or setup for a 180* switchback?...thanks.
how many of you have flipped the rear arms from left to right?
I was a little sceptic at first, but I have driven it myself. and man..its awsome.. love it
rear motor setup 4 LRC block. clay track
do have to put a limiter under the piston with 5 LRC otherwise the dogbone can come out of the outdrive.
I was a little sceptic at first, but I have driven it myself. and man..its awsome.. love it
rear motor setup 4 LRC block. clay track
do have to put a limiter under the piston with 5 LRC otherwise the dogbone can come out of the outdrive.
Move the battery back
Try a longer rear link (1-B)
Move the wing back
Use a larger spur/pinion (same gearing to move the motor back)
Move hubs forward
Lower rear ride height 1-2mm
Raise front ride height 1-2mm
Run diff slightly tighter
09-13-2011, 04:33 PM
#9828
Tech Regular
I have 5/25 up front and 2.5/3 in rear, 1/D rear link or 1/B the middle front hole. SP speedo@ level 3 launch control. Gonna try 2.
May try 3* caster up front next. See how that feel.
May try 3* caster up front next. See how that feel.
09-14-2011, 12:05 AM
#9829
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,849
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
The latest Evan's setup (from the Nationals) is for a VERY high grip, very big, outdoor, sweeping track. That setup is a bit different from what we run at WCRC. I would suggest, trying the following changes to that setup:
27.5wt front and rear
1-D rear link
Shorty LiPo
2mm under inside of rear camber link
This will really improve the car for WC.
27.5wt front and rear
1-D rear link
Shorty LiPo
2mm under inside of rear camber link
This will really improve the car for WC.
ill know after thursday. haha
09-14-2011, 12:51 AM
#9830
Tech Adept
There's a lot of set-ups for high-bite tracks here. What about a big, open, rough, 1/8 dusty off-road track with lots of fast sweepers, biiiig jumps and a loooong back straight? What set-up would you guys recommend? I have not bought my 22 yet, but would like to compile my Cart carefully before hitting the Order Now button.
09-14-2011, 12:52 AM
#9831
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
lol thats actually where ive ended up. i recently tried the inline spindles and that seemed to help me with low speed steering and Im pretty happy with it this way but the tail end gets unsettled if i push to hard in the little sweeper which i dont like so im planning to throw on the 3 deg caster blocks to see if that will settle the back in the sweeper and then i can just dial a bit of steering out on my radio so my initial isnt tooo crazy. the way the car is now is pretty great but I think theres sum left in the set up to where its perfect.
ill know after thursday. haha
ill know after thursday. haha
09-14-2011, 12:58 AM
#9832
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
There's a lot of set-ups for high-bite tracks here. What about a big, open, rough, 1/8 dusty off-road track with lots of fast sweepers, biiiig jumps and a loooong back straight? What set-up would you guys recommend? I have not bought my 22 yet, but would like to compile my Cart carefully before hitting the Order Now button.
09-14-2011, 06:03 AM
#9833
a bit of advice for most new 22 drivers...
This is for non European tracks...
Don't over think it, put Dustin Evans Reedy setup on the car. Leave the rear arms where they belong - "R" is right, "L" is left.
Go drive the car...many packs, half a dozen packs, a dozen packs.
Go drive the car some more, put your wrenches away unless you've broken a part.
Determine for yourself, exactly what might not be working per your driving style / track conditions and make small changes accordingly.
Validate your changes if any...i.e. they must be logical and make sense. "Is this change going to have the desired effect?" I see so many racers complain about a particular attribute, but make changes that will amplify the very aspect they are trying to reduce.
If you have to deviate substantially from this setup, chances are that you have other issues, this setup will get you 95% there with the correct tires for your particular racing surface. If you find the car I think you will (a consistent one), spend that time not tearing the car apart every round but more time practicing your lines and throttle control.
New drivers need to lose this idea that there is a "magical setup" that will take the place of hard work and practice. Your time is much better used by practicing good lines and judicious throttle control. If you don't know the car, you have no chance of tuning it properly. Until you get more experience, you don't know how to tune a car.
It's not always the car, oftentimes it's the driver.
Don't over think it, put Dustin Evans Reedy setup on the car. Leave the rear arms where they belong - "R" is right, "L" is left.
Go drive the car...many packs, half a dozen packs, a dozen packs.
Go drive the car some more, put your wrenches away unless you've broken a part.
Determine for yourself, exactly what might not be working per your driving style / track conditions and make small changes accordingly.
Validate your changes if any...i.e. they must be logical and make sense. "Is this change going to have the desired effect?" I see so many racers complain about a particular attribute, but make changes that will amplify the very aspect they are trying to reduce.
If you have to deviate substantially from this setup, chances are that you have other issues, this setup will get you 95% there with the correct tires for your particular racing surface. If you find the car I think you will (a consistent one), spend that time not tearing the car apart every round but more time practicing your lines and throttle control.
New drivers need to lose this idea that there is a "magical setup" that will take the place of hard work and practice. Your time is much better used by practicing good lines and judicious throttle control. If you don't know the car, you have no chance of tuning it properly. Until you get more experience, you don't know how to tune a car.
It's not always the car, oftentimes it's the driver.
09-14-2011, 06:39 AM
#9834
This is for non European tracks...
Don't over think it, put Dustin Evans Reedy setup on the car. Leave the rear arms where they belong - "R" is right, "L" is left.
Go drive the car...many packs, half a dozen packs, a dozen packs.
Go drive the car some more, put your wrenches away unless you've broken a part.
Determine for yourself, exactly what might not be working per your driving style / track conditions and make small changes accordingly.
Validate your changes if any...i.e. they must be logical and make sense. "Is this change going to have the desired effect?" I see so many racers complain about a particular attribute, but make changes that will amplify the very aspect they are trying to reduce.
If you have to deviate substantially from this setup, chances are that you have other issues, this setup will get you 95% there with the correct tires for your particular racing surface. If you find the car I think you will (a consistent one), spend that time not tearing the car apart every round but more time practicing your lines and throttle control.
New drivers need to lose this idea that there is a "magical setup" that will take the place of hard work and practice. Your time is much better used by practicing good lines and judicious throttle control. If you don't know the car, you have no chance of tuning it properly. Until you get more experience, you don't know how to tune a car.
It's not always the car, oftentimes it's the driver.
Don't over think it, put Dustin Evans Reedy setup on the car. Leave the rear arms where they belong - "R" is right, "L" is left.
Go drive the car...many packs, half a dozen packs, a dozen packs.
Go drive the car some more, put your wrenches away unless you've broken a part.
Determine for yourself, exactly what might not be working per your driving style / track conditions and make small changes accordingly.
Validate your changes if any...i.e. they must be logical and make sense. "Is this change going to have the desired effect?" I see so many racers complain about a particular attribute, but make changes that will amplify the very aspect they are trying to reduce.
If you have to deviate substantially from this setup, chances are that you have other issues, this setup will get you 95% there with the correct tires for your particular racing surface. If you find the car I think you will (a consistent one), spend that time not tearing the car apart every round but more time practicing your lines and throttle control.
New drivers need to lose this idea that there is a "magical setup" that will take the place of hard work and practice. Your time is much better used by practicing good lines and judicious throttle control. If you don't know the car, you have no chance of tuning it properly. Until you get more experience, you don't know how to tune a car.
It's not always the car, oftentimes it's the driver.
09-14-2011, 08:39 AM
#9836
There's a lot of set-ups for high-bite tracks here. What about a big, open, rough, 1/8 dusty off-road track with lots of fast sweepers, biiiig jumps and a loooong back straight? What set-up would you guys recommend? I have not bought my 22 yet, but would like to compile my Cart carefully before hitting the Order Now button.
09-14-2011, 09:28 AM
#9839
Tech Initiate
Losi 22 rear motor
Hello all,
I am all for racing as much as you can without messing
with the set-up to much. but sometimes the car just isn't made
for a specific kind of track.
For the 22 its nemesis is low grip clay tracks.
I am by no means a beginner, I do know my way around set-ups
and I do drive a lot, and I mean a lot.
I couldn't get the 22 to hook on my home track.....at all.
I tried everything, sometimes it worked but only if the track
was moist. When our track was dry and dusty the 22 was probably
the worst car I have ever owned.
I was just about to sell the damn thing when I decided to try the
reversed rear arm trick.
It went from no grip in the rear at all, to all the grip in the world.......
everywhere, out of corners, braking into them, in fast sweepers, tight
hairpins, it jumped better.
I love my 22 with the reversed rear arm trick.
It will probably have its downsides but I haven't experienced them yet.
I can see that this trick will probably result in higher wear for the outdrives and the hub bearings but I will happily replace them a bit more often
when the car handles the way it does now.
my 0,02
Greetings
Hans
I am all for racing as much as you can without messing
with the set-up to much. but sometimes the car just isn't made
for a specific kind of track.
For the 22 its nemesis is low grip clay tracks.
I am by no means a beginner, I do know my way around set-ups
and I do drive a lot, and I mean a lot.
I couldn't get the 22 to hook on my home track.....at all.
I tried everything, sometimes it worked but only if the track
was moist. When our track was dry and dusty the 22 was probably
the worst car I have ever owned.
I was just about to sell the damn thing when I decided to try the
reversed rear arm trick.
It went from no grip in the rear at all, to all the grip in the world.......
everywhere, out of corners, braking into them, in fast sweepers, tight
hairpins, it jumped better.
I love my 22 with the reversed rear arm trick.
It will probably have its downsides but I haven't experienced them yet.
I can see that this trick will probably result in higher wear for the outdrives and the hub bearings but I will happily replace them a bit more often
when the car handles the way it does now.
my 0,02
Greetings
Hans
09-14-2011, 10:13 AM
#9840
Tech Regular
Hi Frank, good to hear news from you 
thanks
thanks