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Old 07-24-2011, 11:56 PM
  #8791  
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the .5mm or so of gold pin showing is the slop.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:26 AM
  #8792  
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Anyone with a shorty pack willing to corner weight their car? I'm curious to the difference vs full pack.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:36 AM
  #8793  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Yes Tekin rs 17.5 combo is the ticket round here! I run 12 min and come off at 135 deg all day long and with the hot wire (extra 30 bucks ) you get to plug into your computer and add timing and play with settings!
I run a Tekin 17.5 in our stock class, and I'm untouchable on the straight, and temps are under 160 after an 8 minute Main. I tried a couple of other motors and always end up back with the Tekin.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:45 AM
  #8794  
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Originally Posted by Dillon71
stared to build my 22 tonight and ran into a problem. there is an issue with the rear inner hinge pin/bushing assembly; there is slop (shown in pic) on the right side. the pins are the same length so i think one of the bushings are not drilled deep enough for the pin. not sure what to do.
I had the same problem, it looked like there was a small piece of metal on the inside that kept the pin from going all the way in. I tried to dremel it down but had no luck so just bought a new set of pin/bushings.
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:57 AM
  #8795  
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Originally Posted by gsxrjohnny
I had the same problem, it looked like there was a small piece of metal on the inside that kept the pin from going all the way in. I tried to dremel it down but had no luck so just bought a new set of pin/bushings.
And did that new set fix the problem?
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:33 AM
  #8796  
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Originally Posted by TWRC
And did that new set fix the problem?
I have been noticing lately an abundance of slop in the rear arms on my car as well. I will need to check the bushings on my car tonight to see if this is the cause for the slop. I used one of Dyno Dan's tips which is to use loctite on these bushings to reduce any slop they may have in the aluminum blocks. That has definitely helped but I still have alot of front to back movement on one arm even with extra shims above the standard 2 the manual calls for.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:53 AM
  #8797  
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Originally Posted by Matt M.
is this the tires and setup to run on carpet?? if so i would be interested in the tire part numbers and your starting setup...we are thinking about racing on ozite this winter....

thanks
Nice to see other tracks in North America racing on carpet. We have two tracks in our area that both offer carpet offroad. One is higher bite than the other but Schumacher mini pins in the rear and Stagger ribs in the front (both yellow compound) are standard for racing on carpet.

Here is a baseline mid motor setup you can try carpet.
Front
56 piston, 27.5-30 wt oil, blue or black spring
shocks outside tower, middle on arm
3mm limiters, bladders, little rebound
-1.5 camber, 0 toe
25 kickup, 5 caster
21mm ride height
2-A camber link (3mm inside, 1mm outside)

Rear
55 piston, 30-32.5 wt oil, pink, red or orange spring
shocks outside on tower, inside on arm
1mm limiters, bladders, little rebound
-1 camber, 3.0 or 3.5 HRC block
2 degrees antisquat
2-B camber link (2mm inside, 0mm outside)
middle wheelbase
+1.5 hexes
20.5mm ride height

We also use SC10 gear diff w/3000 to 5000 oil.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:43 AM
  #8798  
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Originally Posted by TWRC
And did that new set fix the problem?
Yes, they were available at the LHS. Part number is TLR2048.
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:01 AM
  #8799  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Z
Nice to see other tracks in North America racing on carpet. We have two tracks in our area that both offer carpet offroad. One is higher bite than the other but Schumacher mini pins in the rear and Stagger ribs in the front (both yellow compound) are standard for racing on carpet.
Don't forget about our track, probably about 5 hours from you, we run indoor/outdoor carpet and its has rediculas amounts of grip, blue rears are slippery until they wear in, and you have no grip when they're worn out, yellows are the way to go, and I prefer front 2wd mini pins on full width rims with 1 row from each side removed, I like it more then on skinny rims with 2 rows removed from each side. Carpet is simply amazing, but dirt once in a while is nice (I'm running dirt wednesday and friday-sunday, first time since January)
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dillon71
stared to build my 22 tonight and ran into a problem. there is an issue with the rear inner hinge pin/bushing assembly; there is slop (shown in pic) on the right side. the pins are the same length so i think one of the bushings are not drilled deep enough for the pin. not sure what to do.
Had the same with mine; was the casting of the arm itself. Put a washer on that side and everything was good.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
Don't forget about our track, probably about 5 hours from you, we run indoor/outdoor carpet and its has rediculas amounts of grip, blue rears are slippery until they wear in, and you have no grip when they're worn out, yellows are the way to go, and I prefer front 2wd mini pins on full width rims with 1 row from each side removed, I like it more then on skinny rims with 2 rows removed from each side. Carpet is simply amazing, but dirt once in a while is nice (I'm running dirt wednesday and friday-sunday, first time since January)
Yes that makes 3 tracks in Ontario, Canada that I am aware of that offer carpet offroad. Actually there is a 4th track that runs in the winter months only that is a temporary track in a school gymnasium.

I miss racing on dirt but I don't miss the constant tear down to clean the cars and rebuild them. I'm sure the cars on the indoor clay tracks are easy to keep clean but on carpet the only thing we are cleaning is tire dust.

I will admit the cars take alot of punishment racing on carpet with wood jumps and concrete floors under the carpet. And the cars can be very twitchy if you don't nail the setup just right.

I will be experimenting with adding weight to my car this week as I may get away for a practise session before race night. Need to make my car more consistent and from what I have read on the UK Forums I need to aim for a car that weighs in the 1650 to 1700gram range.

Time to find a low cost scale to figure out how much I need to add.
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by twalace
Had the same with mine; was the casting of the arm itself. Put a washer on that side and everything was good.
I measured the pins and the arms, that was all good, I assembled it anyway and it was actually ok. The right side has a tick more play, I was worried that it being longer would cause a bind but it's all good.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:49 PM
  #8803  
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Don't think I have seen this posted here. If so sorry for the repost, but this stuff looks SICK

http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?c=602
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:27 PM
  #8804  
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Originally Posted by Atomicsickness
Don't think I have seen this posted here. If so sorry for the repost, but this stuff looks SICK

http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?c=602
Yea thats some nice stuff. If only it was in a color other than black
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:28 PM
  #8805  
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Anyone here broke the king pin screws before? I was doing some cleaning today and both the top and the bottom screws for the castor block broke clean where the smooth part meets the threaded area. Sucks that the LHS won't have any in till next month noooo
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