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Old 07-18-2011, 06:59 PM
  #8596  
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Originally Posted by racer x 1
Yea i saw that too. i wanted to see what the avg joes were doing. lol cause ill be bringing a kit and ton of parts home here shortly and i really dont want to buy two shorty packs for a $100 each if my reg packs will do fine now... butt on the other hand i drove watchorns with the shorty and its was spot on .
The TLR guys had switched back to the short packs for our tight turn clay tracks.
Tight 180s and stuff just don't like the long packs.
I did like the long pack when I had perfect traction, very, very rare but the steering was unreal until final corner exit, loose bigtime.
I can see how the sweeping turns would like it, never letting the pendelum effect happen too extremely.

As far as the rack slop, never caused noticeable negative effects for me but the Teflon tape got rid of it and is not wearing yet.
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:38 PM
  #8597  
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Here how i did mine battery strap I used almost everithing associate parts
and for a posts i used from nitro buggy fuel tank plastic posts





Thanks everyone for pictures and ideas
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:42 PM
  #8598  
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Originally Posted by -vtec-
Here how i did mine battery strap I used almost everithing associate parts
and for a posts i used from nitro buggy fuel tank plastic posts





Thanks everyone for pictures and ideas
If post sit to high i used foam to make strap lil wider so lipo won't bounce.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:38 AM
  #8599  
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Originally Posted by racer x 1
has anyone gone back to running a normal size pack and had success or is the shorty pack still king? lol putting in my tlr order, trying to get everything the first time around.... thanks
I have, im running some reedy 5500 mah 60c batts. my car feels better with my current set-up with the long packs. And my car doesnt traction roll anymore
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:04 AM
  #8600  
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Wondering if THIS would work for battery posts in the 22 since they screw in throught the bottomthe same way. Then use the B4 battery strap and you can use body clips instead of screws
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:26 AM
  #8601  
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I am still a fan of the velcro straps...
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:00 AM
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I need help choosing motor 13.5 for my 22 I'm planing on using
Lrp SXX v2 esc can you guys suggest good motor

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:04 AM
  #8603  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
Team guys went to long packs at Hot Rod Shootout.
Said they liked em better on the more flowing hi speed layout and it wasn't so much about the traction.
I'm curious what they are running at the Worlds right now, it's fast, long and flowing.
Cars look good so far but no insider info on setups except they are saying they are keeping the setup "safe" in order to be consistant but may start changing to bust out quicker laps later.
We did run more weigth at the Shootout. I ran the short LiPo with 1 oz in front of the battery and 1.25 oz behind it. We definately like the short pack much better indoors and on lower grip, lower speed tracks. The heavier car is only good on very high speed, high traction, flowing, sweeping tracks, like the Shootout was.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:09 AM
  #8604  
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Thumb screws hit the body by the way. I bought the exotek wheel screws but they fill up with dirt so they are now holding down my battery.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:53 AM
  #8605  
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Originally Posted by -vtec-
I need help choosing motor 13.5 for my 22 I'm planing on using
Lrp SXX v2 esc can you guys suggest good motor

Thanks
Thats a great motor and esc. I would just make sure not to drive it on loose stones since it is a vented can and the stones could get in it but for racing you'd be fine
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:03 AM
  #8606  
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Originally Posted by AngryRog
I am still a fan of the velcro straps...
Lighter & works fine; I am doing the same.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:34 AM
  #8607  
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I simply refuse to put anything on this car that is associated, kyosho, or whatever. If it's not Losi, I won't use it.

I even don't like putting Jconcepts tires on it because they are affiliated with associated.

To me, spending any money with competitive companies gives them more dollars to put R&D into a car that competes with mine.

It's like giving your exwife cash to pay for her attorney so she can get more child support out of you.

Doesn't make sense.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:58 AM
  #8608  
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Your logic is sound, but I'm just not that hardline. All I have is a kyosho spur and slipper pads (because losi doesn't make plastic ones anymore) and an AE diff screw, nut and spring. What I don't understand is why anyone would buy Proline or Jconcepts tires. Losi compounds work better and their tires are cheaper! Oh yeah and everything is a copy of BK bars and tapers pins nowadays, guess there's no honor among rc companies.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:04 AM
  #8609  
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.

Last edited by TWRC; 11-07-2011 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:04 AM
  #8610  
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Originally Posted by THE DAD
Has anyone tried the Aluminum steering rack yet? I have had peoblems with mine binding to the point where the car will no steer. So did another guy at my track. It seems OK at first then binds. Anything?
I haven't had my aluminum rack bind and have been running it for three weeks. My reason for running the aluminum is it should create less resistance than graphite plastic on whatever plastic the rack housing is made of. The housing is the piece that wears not the rack itself so hopefully the aluminum makes the housing last longer which I put a new one on when I went to the aluminum rack. It seemed as if it had more play than the graphite plastic rack when it was first installed but seems to not be getting worse. I have not found the play to have a ill effect on handling of the chassis and at the wheel it is pretty minimal compared to other brand chassis. If you look at the slop in the rack it looks like a lot but at the wheel it is not bad at all. Either way I would like to keep it to a minimum. FN dude's tape idea is pretty good I might try it out but in the mean time am experimenting to see how bad it gets with aluminum compared to plastic.
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