Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

+1....Even with boost i am at a 76 / 29. You need to change your gearing and start over.

XAIEM

That's what a buddy suggested for the gearing; this is my first return to the hobby in 10 years, and back in the day all I had was a rustler. I was afraid that the gearing was off too, I won't argue that the ratio didn't help. I changed to the associated slipper and that's when my buddy handed me a different pinion and spurr.

Could you guys suggest a general Hotwire template and a good gear ratio for me? My track is the largest off-road in Michigan, and most of our guys are absolutely dialed in. I'm not complaining, but I know I should be able to get a lot more juice to the wheels. Just need a good starting spot.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Like the other said, gear way up. If you have the AE slipper/plates you can go down to a 72 spur and 28ish pinion. BL motors when under geared just don't go. Go to a default speed control setup w/o boost and it will be plenty fast until you get your driving skills dusted off.

Don't use temp to gear your car, just use it to make sure the gear that runs the best doesn't over heat the motor. Usually the gear that runs best after 3-4 minutes does not overheat anything.

XAIEM

Sounds good. I'll try a couple different ratios and post the results.

hcw5733

iTrader: (12)

Are there any alternatives to using ballcups for the Losi 22? I've noticed that these ballcups have developed too much play after about a weeks worth of running the 22.

Another thing I noticed is that the car actually handled better with the wing mounted "forward" as opposed to farther back. I thought that mounting it farther back would result in slightly more downforce.

Regardless, I'm enjoying the 22 very much. Coming from 1/8th scale (Losi 8ight) this has recaptured my passion for RC buggies

fullsyzz

iTrader: (121)

Ricky G posted this up a little while back.....

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

It should result in more straight line stability. While wings do produce some downforce they are just as much a parachute in the rear to keep the back of the car well, in the back. Your setup is turning better with the wing forward?

mihy

iTrader: (6)

looks as ther is heaps of room long motor wires . sweet thanks fullsyzz

hcw5733

iTrader: (12)

Yes, apologies for the confusion - I should've mentioned more stable in a straight line rather than handled better.

Yet another thing I noticed in comparison to 1/8th scale buggies is that any little setting change is very apparent on the 22.

The 22 has proven to be very durable and stable - I just wished that there are alternatives to using ball cups for the turnbuckles.

Eric Tomczyk

iTrader: (96)

Sounds like this is your first 1/10th buggy? Just be glad you missed the ballcups from the original XXX, or even wore than them, the original RC10. Talk about fragile. The 22 ballcups are pretty good. Yeah they have a little play but if they are too tight you'll be breaking ballstuds and other stuff too much.

XAIEM

Okay, just ran a couple packs after switching back to the standard Losi 76 Spur and the only other pinion I've got at the moment; a 26. Took it longer to top out, and it ran much better than before since the motor actually had something to work with. Also stayed within low temp range so I can probably gear higher.

When I can I'll grab a couple more Associated spurs, as well as another pinion or two. Could you give me your two cents as far as what may be a couple good combinations?

Oh and I grabbed some of those heavy duty black pads yesterday before I left, wondering what the pros and cons might be before I use 'em.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Get the 72t spurs. That should cover you for any motor you will ever run in 2wd. Kimbrough makes a 69T also but I don't know that you'd ever need that small. For pinions you'll want from 27 on up, if you're only going to get a couple, get 27, 28, 29. You're shooting for a little under 7:1 FDR.

I'm not familiar with black pads, are they a different slipper pad? I don't know that you'd notice a difference. These days we only use slippers as protection for the diff, not really a traction control device.

redbaron

iTrader: (24)

This is the setup I ran today. I highly recommend it for a good starting point. If you like it I will take the credit, If you don’t ...... It wasn’t me man!

Seriously though, this is awesome for outdoor.

Front:

Shocks: 55/27.5, 2mm limiting, #2 on tower, middle on arm. Red Springs

camber link: #1 on bulkhead w/No washer, 1mm washer on caster block.

spindles down, No bump steer washers, 24mm ride height. 20/10 caster

ADDED 1/4 oz weight on chassis, in front of steering rack.


Rear:

Shocks: 54/27.5, unscrewed 2 turns, #2 on tower, inside on arm.Yellow Springs

camber link: #1-B, 2mm washer inside, 1mm on hub.

Hubs middle, 1* anti-squat. 25mm ride height. 4* LRC

Battery forward, Losi 3800, 1/2oz weight in battery foam behind battery, below speed control. stock rear hex


This setup is super dialed!!! Car does bottom out a little easier but does not lose composure!

I might try 30wt oil in rear but I’m real happy with this setup. It had enough forward bite to almost lift the front end on a dry dusty track!

Entry and exit steering was the best I have felt with this car. I had awesome forward traction on corner exit!!

I used stock hexes as it rotated quicker and had a little more forward bite than 1.5mm hexes. Although 1.5 hexes jumped better.

XAIEM

Ya know, a guru I went to the track with was the one that gave them to me, I'll have to ask him when I see him tomorrow what the difference is. He's the mechanic at my local hobby shop and used to be sponsored by Associated, so he's always pretty cool about suggesting new parts I might not have thought about, and I got them for free.

My guess is maybe they're for use with nitro applications. They're a bit thicker though, and much more rigid, as they don't bend much at all. If anything they're probably a hell of a lot easier to install. I'll try 'em out and report back later this week.

veecee

iTrader: (34)

What springs did you use?