1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
05-13-2011, 10:10 AM
#6631
Dremel has deburring bits/grinding bits that are very small and will grind the head of that screw right off.
Home Depot or similar.
Not talkin bout a cutoff wheel.
Can even drill the head off the screw if it's the hex inside the head of the screw that's stripped?
Can do the same thing if it's the nut side that is stripped.
No hard feelings, I won't mess with stuff and will grind and drill in an instant Ruffy had us both covered anyway and got his remedy applied.
As for ditching the Evans setup, I started going a step at a time back towards the kit setup also til I got mine to be much better.
The Evans setup does steer like crazy and is dialed when the track is super hooked up but if conditions aren't super sticky like West Coast Raceway where the setup was run then leaning toward the kit setup will help the loose exit by helping the car push more.
If you go full kit setup tho you can lose that great steering into the corner.
05-13-2011, 10:10 AM
#6632
Drove my 22 last night for the 1st time. I have the Evens setup on it minus the 3.5 rear block. I used the short pack and ESC on the tower. I also have the 2mm Traxxas wheel hexes on the car.
I have not driven 2wd buggy for about 13 years so I know I have a lot to re learn in setup.
The car was kinda good for the 1st run but was not what I expected after reading all the positive reviews.
For me the car with this setup over rotates mid corner and then just spins on corner exit. Forward traction could be better as well in my opinion.
As my rear tires wore the car just got worse and worse. which tells me the overall balance of the car is off.
I tried playing with the placement of the battery as well but really was not happy with it all the way back or all the way forward.. is there a go to placement with the short pack? I would like to just have a set place and tune around it.
Can someone recommend some changes to make to stop the over rotating and spins?
Thanks in advance.
I have not driven 2wd buggy for about 13 years so I know I have a lot to re learn in setup.
The car was kinda good for the 1st run but was not what I expected after reading all the positive reviews.
For me the car with this setup over rotates mid corner and then just spins on corner exit. Forward traction could be better as well in my opinion.
As my rear tires wore the car just got worse and worse. which tells me the overall balance of the car is off.
I tried playing with the placement of the battery as well but really was not happy with it all the way back or all the way forward.. is there a go to placement with the short pack? I would like to just have a set place and tune around it.
Can someone recommend some changes to make to stop the over rotating and spins?
Thanks in advance.
I beleive you can also change the camber link in the rear to 1-A link to help with rear bite.
05-13-2011, 10:21 AM
#6633
Also...this should be a no-brainer, but make sure you have the right tires for your track!! I tried the V.2 gold barcodes and they absolutely stunk compared to the original barcodes.
05-13-2011, 10:43 AM
#6634
Drove my 22 last night for the 1st time. I have the Evens setup on it minus the 3.5 rear block. I used the short pack and ESC on the tower. I also have the 2mm Traxxas wheel hexes on the car.
I have not driven 2wd buggy for about 13 years so I know I have a lot to re learn in setup.
The car was kinda good for the 1st run but was not what I expected after reading all the positive reviews.
For me the car with this setup over rotates mid corner and then just spins on corner exit. Forward traction could be better as well in my opinion.
As my rear tires wore the car just got worse and worse. which tells me the overall balance of the car is off.
I tried playing with the placement of the battery as well but really was not happy with it all the way back or all the way forward.. is there a go to placement with the short pack? I would like to just have a set place and tune around it.
Can someone recommend some changes to make to stop the over rotating and spins?
Thanks in advance.
I have not driven 2wd buggy for about 13 years so I know I have a lot to re learn in setup.
The car was kinda good for the 1st run but was not what I expected after reading all the positive reviews.
For me the car with this setup over rotates mid corner and then just spins on corner exit. Forward traction could be better as well in my opinion.
As my rear tires wore the car just got worse and worse. which tells me the overall balance of the car is off.
I tried playing with the placement of the battery as well but really was not happy with it all the way back or all the way forward.. is there a go to placement with the short pack? I would like to just have a set place and tune around it.
Can someone recommend some changes to make to stop the over rotating and spins?
Thanks in advance.
05-13-2011, 10:56 AM
#6635
Thanks for all the help guys..
I like the way the car steers into the corner right now, just not mid and exit... it just kept steering or rotating.. so I might stick it out with this set up and try messing with it to dial in more to my track. ( Med bite clay indoor with lots of ruts)
I am assuming the longer link in the rear will give more rear traction? I am running 2/B and will try 1/A to help.
Ordered the front Orange springs
Will try increasing the front droop and decreasing the rear droop to help with W/T
Will try *3 of anti squat as well
Tire choice at my track is difficult at best, it also hurts that I have the desire to try every type of tire and that adds up quick.. For tires these days do most guys stick to a brand and just run there offerings ( all Losi or all PL or all JC) or is there lots of mixing and matching.
I like the way the car steers into the corner right now, just not mid and exit... it just kept steering or rotating.. so I might stick it out with this set up and try messing with it to dial in more to my track. ( Med bite clay indoor with lots of ruts)
I am assuming the longer link in the rear will give more rear traction? I am running 2/B and will try 1/A to help.
Ordered the front Orange springs
Will try increasing the front droop and decreasing the rear droop to help with W/T
Will try *3 of anti squat as well
Tire choice at my track is difficult at best, it also hurts that I have the desire to try every type of tire and that adds up quick.. For tires these days do most guys stick to a brand and just run there offerings ( all Losi or all PL or all JC) or is there lots of mixing and matching.
05-13-2011, 11:06 AM
#6636
How was your diff set? Per Dyno's advice I run my diff very tight, I test it by flicking the wheels in opposite directions and the wheels only move about a 1/4 turn, I have seen a few people with the same corner exit issue your describing and found them to be setting there diff the traditional way which per Dyno's explanation is too loose since the car has a longer wheelbase.
05-13-2011, 11:10 AM
#6638
Tire choice at my track is difficult at best, it also hurts that I have the desire to try every type of tire and that adds up quick.. For tires these days do most guys stick to a brand and just run there offerings ( all Losi or all PL or all JC) or is there lots of mixing and matching.
).
05-13-2011, 11:40 AM
#6639
Korgae, That would be way too loose of a diff then, Dyno explained to me that with the longer wheel base you must run the diff tighter because when accelerating out of the corner if the inside wheel begins to diff out it will have far more effect because of the longer wheelbase, I ran my diff on a normal setting the first night with the car back before the Cactus Classic and was experiencing the same issue you are describing. After speaking with Dyno at the Cactus and him explaining the theory and setting the diff tighter the car has plenty of forward traction coming out of a corner.
05-13-2011, 11:43 AM
#6640
I did some measuring of my car last night. I was under the impression that +2mm for the hexes was a per side thing so I put on the new TLR clamping hexes at +1.5mm. Measured the car and it was too wide in the rear. I put on the +.75 hexes and it is ok. So in conclusion I wanted to make it clear that on the dustin setup when it says +2mm in the rear that is 1mm per side for a total increase in rear width of 2mm. This is also with the 3.5 toe in block. Not sure what the rear would measure with the 4 deg toe block as that kicks out the rear edge of the tire some more. For most poeple the little extra width in the rear is not a big deal but for those that go to races that may measure the car as part of tech, keep an eye on adding too much rear width to the car.
05-13-2011, 11:46 AM
#6641
Korgae, That would be way too loose of a diff then, Dyno explained to me that with the longer wheel base you must run the diff tighter because when accelerating out of the corner if the inside wheel begins to diff out it will have far more effect because of the longer wheelbase, I ran my diff on a normal setting the first night with the car back before the Cactus Classic and was experiencing the same issue you are describing. After speaking with Dyno at the Cactus and him explaining the theory and setting the diff tighter the car has plenty of forward traction coming out of a corner.
05-13-2011, 12:16 PM
#6642
Tech Master
I tend to emulate what the best drivers are doing...knowing it's the "lazy man's" way. Most at my track are running JC gold barcodes all the way around with varying insert preferences. My track time is so limited I'd rather not spend race nights figuring things out (but I've been doing that lately anyway ).
).did you see the note about a tighter dif for a longer wheel base?
good advise!!
05-13-2011, 12:22 PM
#6643
Tech Master
if you want to get on the track you might cut the bladder out of the three you have and get an oring or washer at one of the big hardware stores for the other. Out here a lot of the guys are not running the bladder in the shocks
05-13-2011, 12:27 PM
#6644
He mentioned the "Grey shock seal", not top bladder. He can't cut it as those are at the bottom.
Has anyone checked to see if the normal red o-rings, like those found in the AE kits will work for him until he can get the Losi ones? I'm not sure about the ID or OD differences between the red and grey ones out there.
Has anyone checked to see if the normal red o-rings, like those found in the AE kits will work for him until he can get the Losi ones? I'm not sure about the ID or OD differences between the red and grey ones out there.
05-13-2011, 01:35 PM
#6645
Tech Master
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So just to be clear on the diff tightness.... When holding one wheel and "flicking" the other it should only slin about a 1/4 a turn? Is this right? And would the same be advised for mid motor?