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Old 04-13-2011, 09:44 AM
  #4906  
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Default What pinion?

This is the first time I've built from a kit....

What's the pitch that's needed for the pinion?
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Ostach24
Another trick with the nuts is to put a little bit of plastic bag on some of the threads. Mine backed out even with thread lock, so I tried it. It has not needed tightened since.
I used a trick from the RC airplane world and cut a thin .5mm washer from glow fuel tubing. Once compressed there is no wobble and won't back out at all, it's also super easy to remove no gumming up.
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by shawn00sa
I feel stupid for asking, but here it goes. The wheels on my 22 are pointed right when I turn it on ALOT. What is the proper procedure for getting this right? I can not get all of the right out using the subtrim. Not sure if that matters also but there is also always constant noise coming from servo.
Also check out the threads starting at 4769 from Cpt. America.

As he noted, I had to cut about 1 mm off 1 ball cup to get the link short enough to have an even throw from r - l.

What brand servo? Mine does that as well, it is a cheap HK servo - it is fine, just noisy.

Ha...beat cha to it Muggydude!
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by shawn00sa
I feel stupid for asking, but here it goes. The wheels on my 22 are pointed right when I turn it on ALOT. What is the proper procedure for getting this right? I can not get all of the right out using the subtrim. Not sure if that matters also but there is also always constant noise coming from servo.
Do as he said, but put the arm a tick to the right. Take the two ball cups and cut of a mm or so from them, and screw them so they are almost touching. With your servo's trim at 0. Then adjust your EPA left and right so that there is no slop in the wheels when turning left or right.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat
It really seems help the car roll more, and "sit on the rear" entering the turn to generate more steering, but it is very controllable. It also finishes and drive off the turn better for me. To sum it up, the car feels like it is driving "less square". I have played around with the shims under the ball studs and settled on .090" (2.25mm) Hub and .060" (1.5mm) Inside. I think it is at a minimum worth trying, let me know what you think!
Frank, was this for your Mid-motor set up, Rear or both?
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nyk247
This is the first time I've built from a kit....

What's the pitch that's needed for the pinion?
48P of 48 pitch.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nyk247
This is the first time I've built from a kit....

What's the pitch that's needed for the pinion?
48 Pitch gears
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RoughLandin
Frank, was this for your Mid-motor set up, Rear or both?
I have only tried it on the rear motor setup. When I try the mid-motor a bit more, I am sure I will try it there also.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
48 Pitch gears
Beat you TMT... WINNING!
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:08 AM
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Default Wiring pics

Here is my wiring setup for Mid-motor, everything is between the battery and the low profile servo. Amazingly everything fits, but the wires are a bit of an eyesore, but the weight distribution seems good.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:10 AM
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+1 on the lock nut for front wheel. It looks as though it could be arranged though. Just an axle from another buggy like the kyo one. Might work, I am sure someone will come up with something soon.

Anyone know who makes a chassis protector without the holes cut out? Also how much was the fast lane one? And can they do one that will match my paint? Finished painting will have it up today.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by RoughLandin
Here is my wiring setup for Mid-motor, everything is between the battery and the low profile servo. Amazingly everything fits, but the wires are a bit of an eyesore, but the weight distribution seems good.
I would think that you would have WAY too much weight up front with that setup. Might be easier to fit under the lid that way, but rear end traction will become quite an issue id think.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:15 AM
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I'm sure fastlane could do one without the holes cut in it. Mine with just a carbon fiber design was $17 shipped. I still have quite a few sheets from Casey on here, I plan on tracing a blank one from the Fastlane one and one with holes.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tripthreat
Beat you TMT... WINNING!
At least i wasnt that far back...only a few seconds
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
I would think that you would have WAY too much weight up front with that setup. Might be easier to fit under the lid that way, but rear end traction will become quite an issue id think.
Maybe, Franks set up calls out everything up front too and the LP servo is a little lighter that a standard. I do have the weight kit now but haven't run it yet. I'm going to give Mid a bit more time as I liked some driving characteristics more than the rear setup.
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