TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
#4216
I tried both at a big race this weekend and I couldn't get any steering out of rear motor so I got fedup and went mid motor and drove faster with mid motor but it was kinda sketchy coming out of corners and didn't have the amazing forward bite I'm used to. (this was on an indoor topsoil/clay track that is usually med/low bite but grooves up and sometimes goes to slicks)
I think I will be going back to rear motor though
I think I will be going back to rear motor though
#4217
Tech Adept
I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
#4219
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dont get any more northwest than me..........
Posts: 2,022
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
#4220
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
How do you get all the air out? I must be missing something. Once the shock is filled with oil....when you place the cap on there is air left inside the shock cap area. Is this correct? What would be the correct steps from the shock being filled with oil? How do you adjust or build rebound from this point.
I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
Last edited by 1fastdude; 04-06-2011 at 08:14 AM.
#4221
Tech Master
iTrader: (52)
hehe.. good sh*t Evans!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF-uq..._order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cF-uq..._order&list=UL
#4222
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I'm half way through the build and assembling the differential now.
But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
#4224
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
I'm half way through the build and assembling the differential now.
But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
#4225
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
So my wife and I discovered an issue with her 22. The gearbox is VERY VERY VERY tight. Last night I picked her car up and tried to spin the spur (were still working on her electronics) and noticed that it barely spun at all... like it was kind of bound up. Assuming something was built wrong, we tore it apart to find everything in order. All the bearings are smooth, all the gears look fine, everything appears to sit pretty normally.. but as soon as you start to just barely tighten the gearbox back together, it completely binds up (4 gear for mid motor). Do we have a bad gearbox housing? Do we just run it and hope it breaks in? Do we call Losi?
Thanks for any advice.
Thanks for any advice.
#4226
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
How do you get all the air out? I must be missing something. Once the shock is filled with oil....when you place the cap on there is air left inside the shock cap area. Is this correct? What would be the correct steps from the shock being filled with oil? How do you adjust or build rebound from this point.
I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
#4229
Tech Rookie
Not heard of any 4-gear transmission problems over here in the UK where 95% of the cars are all being built with their motor in the right/wrong position (delete as applicable).
I have noticed that it is possible to over tighten the 2 case halves which causes some binding - but I overcame that by being patient and just torquing down the screws bit by bit and slackening them off if I felt it go tight. I also worked around the gearbox - like you would with an auto cylinder head - just tightening each screw a little at a time.
Are all the bearings seated fully? Sorry if this is a dumb question - just trying to figure out what would make it go so tight.
I have noticed that it is possible to over tighten the 2 case halves which causes some binding - but I overcame that by being patient and just torquing down the screws bit by bit and slackening them off if I felt it go tight. I also worked around the gearbox - like you would with an auto cylinder head - just tightening each screw a little at a time.
Are all the bearings seated fully? Sorry if this is a dumb question - just trying to figure out what would make it go so tight.