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Old 04-06-2011, 07:38 AM
  #4216  
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Originally Posted by Jason Turner
I tried both at a big race this weekend and I couldn't get any steering out of rear motor so I got fedup and went mid motor and drove faster with mid motor but it was kinda sketchy coming out of corners and didn't have the amazing forward bite I'm used to. (this was on an indoor topsoil/clay track that is usually med/low bite but grooves up and sometimes goes to slicks)

I think I will be going back to rear motor though
From what I saw, you murdered the track mid motor!
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:45 AM
  #4217  
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Originally Posted by dan-o
dumb question time here:

If I cut the bladders, wont the shock fluid leak out the weep hole on the cap? or does whats left of the bladder seal it up?
How do you get all the air out? I must be missing something. Once the shock is filled with oil....when you place the cap on there is air left inside the shock cap area. Is this correct? What would be the correct steps from the shock being filled with oil? How do you adjust or build rebound from this point.

I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:46 AM
  #4218  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
It sounds like you both missed the 2 .5mm spacers that go on the hinge pin in front of the arm.
Yep, just checked out the instructions and it shows what he said.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:47 AM
  #4219  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
It sounds like you both missed the 2 .5mm spacers that go on the hinge pin in front of the arm.
i have the two .5 shims on mine and they do move around alot. im glad im not the only one who notice the amount of movement you still have.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:48 AM
  #4220  
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Originally Posted by shawn00sa
How do you get all the air out? I must be missing something. Once the shock is filled with oil....when you place the cap on there is air left inside the shock cap area. Is this correct? What would be the correct steps from the shock being filled with oil? How do you adjust or build rebound from this point.

I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
Bleed them from the bottom of the shock body by loosening the cap where the o-rings are! Rebound would be how much of the shaft is sticking out while bleeding.

Last edited by 1fastdude; 04-06-2011 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:53 AM
  #4221  
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Originally Posted by k1ller rc
Sick race, evan's 22 looked dialed!!!!
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:53 AM
  #4222  
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I'm half way through the build and assembling the differential now.

But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:08 AM
  #4223  
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude
Bleed them from the bottom of the shock body by loosening the cap where the o-rings are! Rebound would be how muck of the shaft is sticking out while bleeding.
The bottom cap is meant to stay sealed. You can bleed the shock from the top. Just loosen the cap and move the shaft up, you will see oil exit the bleeder hole in the cap, tighten the cap and you should be done.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:11 AM
  #4224  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Z
I'm half way through the build and assembling the differential now.

But I have hit a snag. The diff screw is part way threaded into the diff nut but the nut is now spinning in the nut holder. I can't back the screw out as the nut just spins. Any suggestions on how to get it apart so I can replace the nut and holder with the B4 part?
You cam place a small amount of glue on the nut to hold it in the holder. You can put some glue on a x acto knife to better get in the tight area. Once the glue is dry you should be able to unscrew it, go slow though
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:13 AM
  #4225  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
So my wife and I discovered an issue with her 22. The gearbox is VERY VERY VERY tight. Last night I picked her car up and tried to spin the spur (were still working on her electronics) and noticed that it barely spun at all... like it was kind of bound up. Assuming something was built wrong, we tore it apart to find everything in order. All the bearings are smooth, all the gears look fine, everything appears to sit pretty normally.. but as soon as you start to just barely tighten the gearbox back together, it completely binds up (4 gear for mid motor). Do we have a bad gearbox housing? Do we just run it and hope it breaks in? Do we call Losi?

Thanks for any advice.
Anybody?
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:18 AM
  #4226  
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Originally Posted by shawn00sa
How do you get all the air out? I must be missing something. Once the shock is filled with oil....when you place the cap on there is air left inside the shock cap area. Is this correct? What would be the correct steps from the shock being filled with oil? How do you adjust or build rebound from this point.

I live in Michigan and will be racing on outdoor tracks that are FAR from clay. The 1st track I will be going to is considered top soil. I have GooseBumps. Any suggestions on setup of the buggy?
A shock must have air in it. Oil does not compress (very much at least), so there must be air that can compress to compensate the volume taken up by the shoft shaft during travel. When you build a shock and it will not compress all the way, or takes a lot of force to do so, then you do have too much oil and not enough air to compensate for the shock shaft's volume. All bladder less shocks have air and oil mixed together, and bladder shocks simply seperate the oil and air. When all the air is concentrated in the same place (not mixed with oil, ie bladder shock), the air can compress and expand at different rates are compared to when the air is spread throughout the oil. This is the difference in shock performance. We have found the bladderless (emulsion) shocks are letting the 22 land jumps much better at this point. We still have testing to do with the bladders, so stay tuned.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:18 AM
  #4227  
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I have not tried to run the mid motor case yet but with the old XXX case would run the case screws on the looser side. I put a dab of thread lock on motor plate to hold the screws in place. If it spins free without a lot of screw pressure I would use this trick.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:20 AM
  #4228  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Anybody?
It's the bearings, they are packed pretty tight. Spray them with motor spray and just use regular bearing oil.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:20 AM
  #4229  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Anybody?
Not heard of any 4-gear transmission problems over here in the UK where 95% of the cars are all being built with their motor in the right/wrong position (delete as applicable).
I have noticed that it is possible to over tighten the 2 case halves which causes some binding - but I overcame that by being patient and just torquing down the screws bit by bit and slackening them off if I felt it go tight. I also worked around the gearbox - like you would with an auto cylinder head - just tightening each screw a little at a time.

Are all the bearings seated fully? Sorry if this is a dumb question - just trying to figure out what would make it go so tight.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:21 AM
  #4230  
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Originally Posted by monty c
i have the two .5 shims on mine and they do move around alot. im glad im not the only one who notice the amount of movement you still have.
Yes I have the two .5 shims also and I still have movement back a forth. If it gets worse I will just shim it out.
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