fordmike65

iTrader: (28)

Just dropped by Speedtech & picked up a bunch of spares,springs,shock bladders & couple hop-ups. Hopefully getting some front arms & spindles in soon too!

https://www.speedtechrc.com/store/eb...ry.asp?id=1015

Nitrius

Nice link, thanks =)

chuckinator

Hey Doug, green double dees with stock foam and groovy fronts with 3/4 rear foam and you good to go no matter what the track is like. Casey also posted my setup from the finals at SRS this past week. If you find that you don't like Dustin's setup you may want to give that a shot. Dustin's really didn't work for me at SRS on wet track. I know wheeler was happy with his car with only a couple changes off of Dustin's setup.

Jason Turner

iTrader: (67)

The ones that are to big are used for mid motor because you use longer screws that go straight through and fasten to the bulkhead or whatever is on top of it.
[/QUOTE]

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

yea i spoke to wheeler and im going to get what he changed. he said evans set up is a nice stable set up and is good for new 2wd drivers. The changes he made loosened it up and made it more aggressive . i will def. give yours a shot as well as im new to the whole 2wd buggy so cant hurt to test. I did order dd and groovy but i ordered the closed sell foams, maybe next time around ill try the stock foams

k1ller rc

iTrader: (316)

Mine finally showed up , has anyone run both mid motor and rear set ups yet? If so which one did you like better. I built mine for rear motor, but im thinking mid motor and rear weight set may be better for our out door loomy surfaces around here!
What do you guys think?

MTY500

+1

Jason Turner

iTrader: (67)

I tried both at a big race this weekend and I couldn't get any steering out of rear motor so I got fedup and went mid motor and drove faster with mid motor but it was kinda sketchy coming out of corners and didn't have the amazing forward bite I'm used to. (this was on an indoor topsoil/clay track that is usually med/low bite but grooves up and sometimes goes to slicks)

I think I will be going back to rear motor though

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

So my wife and I discovered an issue with her 22. The gearbox is VERY VERY VERY tight. Last night I picked her car up and tried to spin the spur (were still working on her electronics) and noticed that it barely spun at all... like it was kind of bound up. Assuming something was built wrong, we tore it apart to find everything in order. All the bearings are smooth, all the gears look fine, everything appears to sit pretty normally.. but as soon as you start to just barely tighten the gearbox back together, it completely binds up (4 gear for mid motor). Do we have a bad gearbox housing? Do we just run it and hope it breaks in? Do we call Losi?

Thanks for any advice.

"Smiley"

iTrader: (171)

Make sure the long screw that attached the Wing Mounts to the Gear Box/Motor Plate is not too tight. If overtightened, It will bind the Transmission.

EDIT- This is for Rear Motor,

Dusttt

iTrader: (144)

What page is Dustin's setup on? Sorry Im trying to track this and the ten scte thread. Too much to keep up with!!

cptxaggie

iTrader: (9)

I believe everyone is referring to this one:

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...1ReedyRace.pdf

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Found some stuff in the garage.




BY the way no comments on the transponder!

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

I just did this step. Page 23, step B-4 (rear motor config). It's the 2 screws (TLR5903) that fix the camber block to the battery tray. In the next step those 2 screws are concealed by the shock tower.

THE DAD

iTrader: (1)

I found that "Bag F" has some extra stiuff in it...