1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
06-11-2013, 09:58 AM
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
What if all you have is the Orion WTS packs and you want to run no weight in the pack...you are basically only able to run the pack in the full forward or full rear of the tray. You can't experiment with the pack anywhere in the middle of the car. It's a good idea but not for everyone.
06-11-2013, 10:01 AM
Yeah, I would never run one, but it is a kind cool idea. I was just simply pointing out that the WTS battery is a high end battery with a feature that no low end battery has to respond to his sarcastic post based on his misreading of what I wrote. I'm sure someone out there saw the WTS battery and was like "yes, that is exactly what I want".
Back on topic about the 22 Buggy now.
I sure wish they would have banned you longer
06-11-2013, 10:05 AM
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
06-11-2013, 10:50 AM
lol, casper they have a great warranty......I have used it a lot because all of my venom packs died, lol. But they took care of me fast and they were great. But i just expect more than 3 laps out of my packs, lol. I think the connection inside was breaking. I came off a jump, flat landed and the pack no longer showed voltage. Happened to 3 packs, then i sold them all off. But venom replaced them all.
I could not be happier with my packs all well over a year old now and none are puffed and not a single hick up. I can't say that for the other packs I have used over the years.
Glad they took care of the bad packs. May have been a bad batch. It happens.
06-11-2013, 11:04 AM
Is there an updated mid motor set up that has been working on the "candy land" tracks?
06-11-2013, 12:35 PM
06-11-2013, 02:03 PM
06-11-2013, 02:34 PM
for thoe of you running the reedy race setup, what ball stud are you using when raising it up 3mm inside. I tried the 10mm and I would really like it to thread more into the plastic camber block. I think the AE 12mm sc104x4 one will also fit.
06-11-2013, 03:18 PM
This is why a lot of us run the alum camber blocks to a little better thread strength but the 10mm should have plenty of thread left to get good bite in the plastic block.
06-11-2013, 03:46 PM
yeah, I understand that casper. This is my 8 year olds car, so I didnt really spend the cash on the bling. She only goes half throttle with a 17.5 and no added timing. So the strength was not needed. I just need to get her more low speed on power steering. She does not really understand setting the car up for the corner, but I am watching her wheels full lock and just turn in a really wide radius. She is not accelerating, but she often does not decelerate either, lol. Its more like a constant speed around the corner. She is not terrible, and 2 weeks ago she broke her front camber block in the second heat and the store didnt have another one, so I let her run my b4 in the main. Later she commented to me that the b4 turned much better. So good in fact, she clipped a pipe and broke the front a-arm 3/4 into the race, lol. So I was thinking shorter links in the front and maybe lightening the front spring. Or many lighten all springs?
06-11-2013, 03:58 PM
where are the latest setups? Cant seem to find them
06-11-2013, 05:29 PM
Also just changed over to mid motor and would love to see some setups.
Cheers.
Cheers.
06-11-2013, 07:09 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster (in this thread).
I'm running a Losi 22 in Australia for the 17.5 stock class, that started life as an RTR with the Losi 13.5.
I blew the speedy at the last race meet and spontaneously picked up a new hobbywing speedy with a fan from another racer in the pits (new in box).
After fitting the Hobbywing, I found that the heatsink rubs on the Proline Bulldog body and has started taking off paint.
Has anyone got suggestions for a body that will allow more clearance around the speedy for a rear mounted motor setup? I'd rather not have to trim the body back and have an exposed heatsink/fan.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Liam.
I'm running a Losi 22 in Australia for the 17.5 stock class, that started life as an RTR with the Losi 13.5.
I blew the speedy at the last race meet and spontaneously picked up a new hobbywing speedy with a fan from another racer in the pits (new in box).
After fitting the Hobbywing, I found that the heatsink rubs on the Proline Bulldog body and has started taking off paint.
Has anyone got suggestions for a body that will allow more clearance around the speedy for a rear mounted motor setup? I'd rather not have to trim the body back and have an exposed heatsink/fan.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Liam.
06-11-2013, 09:40 PM
Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster (in this thread).
I'm running a Losi 22 in Australia for the 17.5 stock class, that started life as an RTR with the Losi 13.5.
I blew the speedy at the last race meet and spontaneously picked up a new hobbywing speedy with a fan from another racer in the pits (new in box).
After fitting the Hobbywing, I found that the heatsink rubs on the Proline Bulldog body and has started taking off paint.
Has anyone got suggestions for a body that will allow more clearance around the speedy for a rear mounted motor setup? I'd rather not have to trim the body back and have an exposed heatsink/fan.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Liam.
I'm running a Losi 22 in Australia for the 17.5 stock class, that started life as an RTR with the Losi 13.5.
I blew the speedy at the last race meet and spontaneously picked up a new hobbywing speedy with a fan from another racer in the pits (new in box).
After fitting the Hobbywing, I found that the heatsink rubs on the Proline Bulldog body and has started taking off paint.
Has anyone got suggestions for a body that will allow more clearance around the speedy for a rear mounted motor setup? I'd rather not have to trim the body back and have an exposed heatsink/fan.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Liam.
06-11-2013, 10:38 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Cheers,
Liam.