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Old 05-05-2013, 05:12 AM
  #19966  
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Originally Posted by MartinSorlie
Wouldn't it be easier and just as cheap to buy the RTR plastic caps with bleeder holes and screws?

Yeah, the aluminum ones are more solid, but I have never broken the plastic ones.
What I have found is the plastic caps will begin to gave threading issues.....

I do prefer the aluminum caps ,..you can't tap the original caps because of the bleader hole
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:15 AM
  #19967  
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I wouldn't think the original bleeder holes would be a problem, isn't the cap tightened down closing them off when using bleeder screws?
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:44 AM
  #19968  
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Originally Posted by Dave H
I wouldn't think the original bleeder holes would be a problem, isn't the cap tightened down closing them off when using bleeder screws?
Depends on which o ring seal is used
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:53 AM
  #19969  
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Ah, I just have the original style, now I get it I think. Thanks Matt.
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:32 PM
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Hey Guys

Thought I would share info on the Avid Triad Slipper, Aluminium Drive shafts and the RTR gear diff with 2000wt oil.

I ran an evening race on Saturday night with this new setup and absolutely loved it.

The smaller rotating mass of the Drive Shafts and Avid Slipper gave my car unreal acceleration even for 17.5 no timing, even though it was less weight over the rear it meant even on our dry, dusty & loose track I could keep my speed up through the corners.

The Avid slipper is amazing too, with the stock slipper I was never able to punch it off the line, however with the new Avid Slipper I can plant it and it will just slip and allow the power to come on gently.

Gotta say before this I was really disliking my 22, I couldnt get it to perform. However now with these changes I am really happy with the car.

Next up is a rebuilt Ball Diff using the XXX 12 ball gear
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:58 PM
  #19971  
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These are on ebay cant sell on tech unless u pm me . Reduced price to $30.00 shipped. For both pieces.

Thanks


Originally Posted by XXXDad
Male and female Alu. with graphite power


Its Butter... no sticking
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:34 AM
  #19972  
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so, my kid had an issue with the 22 this weekend in her second heat. I let her run a different car for the main, because I am still trying to figure out what happened. She either lost or had bound up steering. When I was watching the car it looked like she had no steering or very little when she got to the corners. This started about 2/3 into the race. It was not the battery, nor was it brown outs. I dont run savox or hi amp draw servos. When I pulled the buggy off the track, it seemed to work fine on the bench. I am not really sure if this is the case of a dying slider or a dying servo. I will test the servo this weekend, but how can I trouble shoot the slider?
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
so, my kid had an issue with the 22 this weekend in her second heat. I let her run a different car for the main, because I am still trying to figure out what happened. She either lost or had bound up steering. When I was watching the car it looked like she had no steering or very little when she got to the corners. This started about 2/3 into the race. It was not the battery, nor was it brown outs. I dont run savox or hi amp draw servos. When I pulled the buggy off the track, it seemed to work fine on the bench. I am not really sure if this is the case of a dying slider or a dying servo. I will test the servo this weekend, but how can I trouble shoot the slider?
What servo were you using? Make sure the tires are on the ground when you test so there is some load on the system that may reproduce an issue. Are you using all stock plastic parts in the slider?
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:44 AM
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yeah, the slider is full plastic. yeah the wheels were on the ground after the race when I bench checked it. I just have not had a chance to run laps and try to reproduce the issue. She is in a series race atm and the issue ultimately caused her to finish last in the main. I would like to resolve the issue because she still has 2 series races left and is still in second for her class.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:45 AM
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Stripped servo horn maybe?
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:49 AM
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I would think that is doubtful because it was still trimmer correctly. if it had skipped or slipped I would think the trim would be off. I plan to swap out the servo for next week just in case. And i will check the servo horn. I might make a video of the rack tonight. maybe that will help.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:59 AM
  #19977  
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Originally Posted by Cloaked
Hey Guys

Thought I would share info on the Avid Triad Slipper, Aluminium Drive shafts and the RTR gear diff with 2000wt oil.

I ran an evening race on Saturday night with this new setup and absolutely loved it.

The smaller rotating mass of the Drive Shafts and Avid Slipper gave my car unreal acceleration even for 17.5 no timing, even though it was less weight over the rear it meant even on our dry, dusty & loose track I could keep my speed up through the corners.

The Avid slipper is amazing too, with the stock slipper I was never able to punch it off the line, however with the new Avid Slipper I can plant it and it will just slip and allow the power to come on gently.

Gotta say before this I was really disliking my 22, I couldnt get it to perform. However now with these changes I am really happy with the car.

Next up is a rebuilt Ball Diff using the XXX 12 ball gear
Save yourself time and just get a Bfast diff kit. Mine are buttery smooth and i get about 5 months on average out of a diff until i need rebuild. This is racing 2 days a week.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, the slider is full plastic. yeah the wheels were on the ground after the race when I bench checked it. I just have not had a chance to run laps and try to reproduce the issue. She is in a series race atm and the issue ultimately caused her to finish last in the main. I would like to resolve the issue because she still has 2 series races left and is still in second for her class.
This happened in my 22sct!

DO this test first before buying anything.

Put the car on the table push down on the front shock tower pretty hard you can even bottom it out and turn the tires with the remote.

You should see the binding or feel it. Clear the steering rack. I was running the aluminum slider in my SCT and changed out to the plastic and haven't had a problem since. I would bet its the rack. Guy had it happen to him in the main last weekend I noticed it and did this test and he cleaned it out and it worked again.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:36 AM
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sounds good, I will give that a shot.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:42 AM
  #19980  
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Originally Posted by Carranza76
This happened in my 22sct!

DO this test first before buying anything.

Put the car on the table push down on the front shock tower pretty hard you can even bottom it out and turn the tires with the remote.

You should see the binding or feel it. Clear the steering rack. I was running the aluminum slider in my SCT and changed out to the plastic and haven't had a problem since. I would bet its the rack. Guy had it happen to him in the main last weekend I noticed it and did this test and he cleaned it out and it worked again.
I agree when putting a load on the front and checking the steering. This happened with my 22t and basically the servo could not turn right when under a load. I then pulled the servo and repeated the process with the servo on my work bench and got the same result. I chalked it up to being a bad servo since it was new and not bashed on.
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