travymoto11

iTrader: (19)

Can someone post a link to the carbon fiber battery hold down posted a while back... Similar to the JC, but less expensive?

robcamj

iTrader: (48)

What's a good stock (17.5) gearing for the trinity D3.5 with high torque rotor. Medium sized indoor clay track.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

what seems to be the standard good starting indoor setup.

F1Yankee

"frank root reedy race"
sound fundamentals, i bet it works on almost any 2wd

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Hey does anyone have a nice diff ball set up (parts in your setup lol) that they could share want to switch from gear to ball... part numbers would be very helpful!!

Thanks
Boston

Phelps

iTrader: (18)

http://www.vision-racing.net/product...=0&id=15563007

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

Is that the 2013 reedy setup?

LBR_Frank

iTrader: (9)

Question, fair warning I know this probably doesn't belong here but I search this forum up and down for an answer and since I am running it in a 22 AND you guys always give me some good advice thought I would give it a go...

So, have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 that I was running in my SC until I got a mod motor. t's about a year old with about 9 months of weekly racing on it. Then it sat on a shelf until I got my 22 buggy. Motor felt slow, thought it was me, because of the mod motor in the SC. But after about a month of racing and tuning I am still getting beat on the straight in the stock class. Gearing is good, temp is good, and all the guys agree it should be strong.

So my question (if you've stuck with me), is there a way to tell if the motor is just... done? Should I consider a rebuild, new rotor/bearings? I know financially it's close to a wash but could chock it up to learning something. Just buy a new motor? I am guessing I have to take it apart to tell if the bearings are done but do the rotors or stators lose power and is there a tell?

Thanks in advance guys.

travymoto11

iTrader: (19)

Thanks

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

I like the JP Richards set up for CRCRC/EN Hobbies. It works well on the two different types of dirt. I usually have grip at one and not the other. But my car has been really good at both lately.

Dirtryder219

iTrader: (59)

I typically run 27/78 and go from there. I run a Schuur Speed with 35* timing on the end bell and blinky on the esc. Temps are 125 or so after 6-8 mins.

Dirtryder219

iTrader: (59)

Yep, 2013 set up is a good starting point and then you can tune from there depending on your track and driving style. Casper has a good setup as well.

Cloaked

iTrader: (15)

33/70.

Just fits.

Gets the FDR nice and low.

kyok2

iTrader: (32)

what is a good pinion to run on the kit spur with a brushless hobbies 120a esc and venom 13.5 brushless. Thanks

ifuonlyknew

iTrader: (7)

Repeat after me, gearing is not something specific to any car. Gearing questions do not belong in the thread for the car you run. The motor will need the same final drive ratio, no matter which buggy you run. How is it that every page in every thread for every vehicle has someone asking, "how should I gear my XYZ motor"? The gearing recommendation chart on Novaks site, and gearchart.com will get you in the ballpark for any motor, every time. From there it is going to take some effort on your part. Is it really that hard to understand this? In closing, build a man a fire he stays warm for the night, set a man on fire and he stays warm for the rest of his life.

I don't really think the Reedy Sonics are known to be one of the faster spec motors. Spec racing is always going to a motor of the week situation, unless the rules change. I say if you want to be successful, look into one of the known "fast" motors. That being said, good drivers carry more corner speed, which may seem why the fast guys seem to pull you down the strait. Have one of the good drivers at your track see what they think of your cars power.