1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
02-06-2013, 07:35 AM
Where can I find this WTS set-up sheet @? man, I feel out the loop what does WTS stand for again?
I use weight as a way to improve body roll (from front to back as well as side to side ) without effecting my instantaneous center (camber gain) and possibly the progression of the change in roll center as the suspension is compressed, in other words, if my tires are wearing EVENLY then most of the time I leave the camber links alone.
But sometimes you need MORE
this is where weight comes in, weight changes were the CG is, the higher the CG the more roll that it induces, the lower the CG = Less Roll. Also the more weight you have on one end of the car is more potential weight that can transfer to the opposite side (important to remember) during acceleration and braking.
There are a few ways to adjust the relationship between RC and CG without moving camber links. First is Ride Height! just by moving the ride height changes the relationship between the RC and CG. Looking for a little more roll in the back, raise your rear ride height a mm. Just remember that RC is NOT a static location, it moves with the suspension as it is compressed. But moving your ride height a mm either direction you should'nt have to worry about the progressive change in the RC, just be aware it exists!
Next way to adjust is to add weight to the car in different locations. a couple things to remember when adding weight, when looking for traction you want MORE Downward pressure on the tire. There are 2 forces going through the turn, lateral pressure and downward pressure. If you add weight up high on the car (top of trans, top of servo) you will add more body roll, which induces more DOWNWARD Pressure and Less Lateral pressure. Increasing grip but at a loss of responsiveness. If you add weight to the low on the chassis ( Battery placement & lead weights on chassis) you lower your CG, Which DECREASES Downward pressure (less traction) but will speed your cars responsiveness b/c of less roll.
You also need to know that moving weight around will change how the ROLL AXIS feels (movement of weight front to back/ back to front) If you have lots of weight in the back when you hit the brakes a lot more weight is transferred to the front.
I could go into more depth, but the post is long already, but if you have any questions, I am glad to answer!!!
I use weight as a way to improve body roll (from front to back as well as side to side ) without effecting my instantaneous center (camber gain) and possibly the progression of the change in roll center as the suspension is compressed, in other words, if my tires are wearing EVENLY then most of the time I leave the camber links alone.
But sometimes you need MORE
this is where weight comes in, weight changes were the CG is, the higher the CG the more roll that it induces, the lower the CG = Less Roll. Also the more weight you have on one end of the car is more potential weight that can transfer to the opposite side (important to remember) during acceleration and braking.There are a few ways to adjust the relationship between RC and CG without moving camber links. First is Ride Height! just by moving the ride height changes the relationship between the RC and CG. Looking for a little more roll in the back, raise your rear ride height a mm. Just remember that RC is NOT a static location, it moves with the suspension as it is compressed. But moving your ride height a mm either direction you should'nt have to worry about the progressive change in the RC, just be aware it exists!
Next way to adjust is to add weight to the car in different locations. a couple things to remember when adding weight, when looking for traction you want MORE Downward pressure on the tire. There are 2 forces going through the turn, lateral pressure and downward pressure. If you add weight up high on the car (top of trans, top of servo) you will add more body roll, which induces more DOWNWARD Pressure and Less Lateral pressure. Increasing grip but at a loss of responsiveness. If you add weight to the low on the chassis ( Battery placement & lead weights on chassis) you lower your CG, Which DECREASES Downward pressure (less traction) but will speed your cars responsiveness b/c of less roll.
You also need to know that moving weight around will change how the ROLL AXIS feels (movement of weight front to back/ back to front) If you have lots of weight in the back when you hit the brakes a lot more weight is transferred to the front.
I could go into more depth, but the post is long already, but if you have any questions, I am glad to answer!!!
02-06-2013, 08:49 AM
Common setups info i have noticed.
- 5deg caster
- 25deg kickup (brass or plastic?)
- 55 pistons front and rear
- rear no limiters and 3 turns out
- red front and yellow/white rear springs
- 3 limiters front
- 24/24 ride height
- 4mm trailing spindles
- rear toe 3 deg LRC
- anti squat 2deg
- use of drag break
- tranny raised 1mm
- +.75 hexes
weight and ballstud washers seem to be the main difference in setups.
The items in red do not come with the kit correct? These are parts I would need to pick up?
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 02-06-2013 at 09:01 AM.
02-06-2013, 09:03 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Is the alum rack a good upgrade. I thought I remember reading that the stock rack wears out fast. My 8 year old will be driving this as well. She has been driving for almost a year now and is not too horrible. But she tends to over steer and hit pipes. So I want to beef up anything that breaks easily. I know that if you put alum all over the place that something else will just break. And the car will get heavy and expensive. On the xxx buggies the front hub carried broke fairly easy because the area around the hinge pin was thin. I have been told by many people that the 22 is durable. So it was the main selling point for me. I have a b4 and it works fine for me, but my 8 year old clips pipes and faces into jumps. I noticed some novice guys running the 22 over the last few weeks doing very well with the 22. It seems many of the novices do better with the 22 than the b4. But the fast guys here do better with the b4 over the 22.
. The aluminum Steering replacement catches the plastic C housing after a while, causing the steering to stick. Just replace the stock one every 10 - 15 hrs of track time depending on the wear. Get a TON of spindles, that is what breaks the most on mine, rear arms being second, and the shock mounts getting bent is common.I raced both xx and xxx vehicles and the 22 is BY FAR the most durable! I am still amazed I have yet to break a front arm!
Just keep you maintenance up on the 22 and she will drive great!
02-06-2013, 09:12 AM
22's have alittle push to them which will help the oversteer for sure! Do not worry about aluminum steering b/c the wrong part is aluminum . The aluminum Steering replacement catches the plastic C housing after a while, causing the steering to stick. Just replace the stock one every 10 - 15 hrs of track time depending on the wear. Get a TON of spindles, that is what breaks the most on mine, rear arms being second, and the shock mounts getting bent is common.
I raced both xx and xxx vehicles and the 22 is BY FAR the most durable! I am still amazed I have yet to break a front arm!
Just keep you maintenance up on the 22 and she will drive great!
. The aluminum Steering replacement catches the plastic C housing after a while, causing the steering to stick. Just replace the stock one every 10 - 15 hrs of track time depending on the wear. Get a TON of spindles, that is what breaks the most on mine, rear arms being second, and the shock mounts getting bent is common.I raced both xx and xxx vehicles and the 22 is BY FAR the most durable! I am still amazed I have yet to break a front arm!
Just keep you maintenance up on the 22 and she will drive great!
If you bend a shock mount, I'd suggest replacing it with the Titanium mounts. I haven't bent one of those ever, they are really good.
02-06-2013, 09:29 AM
If you use the threaded kingpins, you should not break spindles. Between all 3 of my 22 vehicles and 2+ years, I have only broken 1, and it deserved it plus some.
If you bend a shock mount, I'd suggest replacing it with the Titanium mounts. I haven't bent one of those ever, they are really good.
If you bend a shock mount, I'd suggest replacing it with the Titanium mounts. I haven't bent one of those ever, they are really good.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/LNS7342
02-06-2013, 09:31 AM
I just spent 30 minutes reading all of the tips and upgrades on the petitrc website, lol. So i have a good idea of what upgrades I want/need. And yeah, the threaded kingpin is at the top of the list. And yes, my goal if for it to push a little. So after all of that reading, I think these are the upgrades I will be looking for.
- 5deg caster spinles
- 25deg kickup (brass or plastic?)
- 24/24 ride height
- 4mm trailing spindles
- rear toe 3 deg LRC
- anti squat 2deg lrc
- tranny raised 1mm
- +.75 hexes
-Bleeder caps
- threaded king pin
- 5deg caster spinles
- 25deg kickup (brass or plastic?)
- 24/24 ride height
- 4mm trailing spindles
- rear toe 3 deg LRC
- anti squat 2deg lrc
- tranny raised 1mm
- +.75 hexes
-Bleeder caps
- threaded king pin
02-06-2013, 09:34 AM
22's have alittle push to them which will help the oversteer for sure! Do not worry about aluminum steering b/c the wrong part is aluminum . The aluminum Steering replacement catches the plastic C housing after a while, causing the steering to stick. Just replace the stock one every 10 - 15 hrs of track time depending on the wear. Get a TON of spindles, that is what breaks the most on mine, rear arms being second, and the shock mounts getting bent is common.
I raced both xx and xxx vehicles and the 22 is BY FAR the most durable! I am still amazed I have yet to break a front arm!
Just keep you maintenance up on the 22 and she will drive great!
. The aluminum Steering replacement catches the plastic C housing after a while, causing the steering to stick. Just replace the stock one every 10 - 15 hrs of track time depending on the wear. Get a TON of spindles, that is what breaks the most on mine, rear arms being second, and the shock mounts getting bent is common.I raced both xx and xxx vehicles and the 22 is BY FAR the most durable! I am still amazed I have yet to break a front arm!
Just keep you maintenance up on the 22 and she will drive great!
02-06-2013, 09:55 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Jeeze, how do you break parts on it? I've had some serious tumbles with mine and it's only popped a ball cup, one time. The rack system isn't very well done - they develop slop quickly despite starting out a little too tight when new. Probably need different materials.
I hit the pipes, sometimes pretty fast!
02-06-2013, 09:56 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Jeeze, how do you break parts on it? I've had some serious tumbles with mine and it's only popped a ball cup, one time. The rack system isn't very well done - they develop slop quickly despite starting out a little too tight when new. Probably need different materials.
I hit the pipes, sometimes pretty fast!
02-06-2013, 01:10 PM
Are the plastic bleeder caps any good? The alum caps are kinda spendy.
02-06-2013, 01:33 PM
02-06-2013, 01:34 PM
http://drivenproductions.net/content/store.php?s=store
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
02-06-2013, 01:36 PM
02-06-2013, 01:38 PM
http://drivenproductions.net/content/store.php?s=store
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
02-06-2013, 02:28 PM
http://drivenproductions.net/content/store.php?s=store
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
With all this talk about steering racks i cant recommend there's enough. Its the only upgrade a 22 needs.
I used it too and the wear is virtually non-existent.
