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Old 10-08-2012, 12:33 PM
  #17386  
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Originally Posted by joeymdz
Tuning with Axle Height (http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...g-axle-height/)

Changing the height of the Axle can produce different handling characteristics.

Raising the Axle (putting the shims under the steering block) will give the car less front grip entering corners and a little more grip on exit.

Lowering the Axle (putting the shims on top of the steering block) will give the car more front grip entering corners, but a little less grip on exit.

Keeping the Axle in the middle position (one shim above and one shim below the steering block) is best for most conditions. It will give the best feel of enter and exit steering.

I would personally raise the car all around to 24mm*, front shocks 2mm limiters and middle/middle hole. Rear is would have the shocks middle/inner with the eyelets unscrewed 2 turns, 3 or 3.5 toe, 2.5 or 3.0 anti squat

**what surface are you running on?**
I am running on a slick indoor clay track. MC compound suburbs all the way around.

I currently have the axle in the lowest setting. Will doing the others help get rid of the high speed off power push?
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dougoilman661
Try removing the tranny and removing the screws which hold the tranny halves together. If you are able to spin the spur freely with the screws out then you had them too tight. Slowly tighten the screws back in while checking for free movement of gears
Thank you , but thats not the problem. Doesn't matter how tight or loose the screws are it stills binds up.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:46 PM
  #17388  
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma
I am having a problem also with a new tranny i have assembled and maybe someone can help me.

I am sorry in advance for my confusion lol

I built a new tranny using a new tranny case and new layshaft, part num TLR2963 and new slipper plates part num TLR2965 ( both REV A ), when I put it all together it binds the transmission. Yes the little red spacer is installed. I also tried using an old layshaft with the new plates and it also bound up the tranny...... has anyone ran into this problem?

I should also mention this is with 2 different sets of new slipper plates because when I first put it together I thought something was wrong with tthe new plates and returned them but the second pair is also doing it......

Thank you for any help
Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma
Thank you , but thats not the problem. Doesn't matter how tight or loose the screws are it stills binds up.
The slipper plate interferes with the tranny housing due to the larger chamfer. We have updated the tranny cases, but you probably have a new plate and old tranny case right now. Just take a body reamer, and open up the tranny case a bit on the slipper side of the layshaft exit. And all will be dialed
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:28 PM
  #17389  
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Thank you very much for the fix!
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:05 PM
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Frank, I found out my problem earlier. When my old diff but stripped an I put the new one in it was a little loose causing my diff to slip. I have brand new carbide balls and ceramic thrust. Do you think I messed it up bad? It feels fine....
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:21 PM
  #17391  
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Originally Posted by Dougoilman661
Frank, I found out my problem earlier. When my old diff but stripped an I put the new one in it was a little loose causing my diff to slip. I have brand new carbide balls and ceramic thrust. Do you think I messed it up bad? It feels fine....
It depends. Sometimes it's hammered, sometimes it's not. Just run it until it doesn't feel good
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:08 PM
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thanks, guess ill find out tomorrow night! Running indoor carpet track midmotor setup. I really hope the diff is good, just spent almost 30 bucks on the new Bfast diff. Id hate to have barked it because of the dang diff nut being loose! my mistake though, bet you that wont happen again!
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:17 PM
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My local TLR driver likes the gear diff running mid motor on carpet off-road. Going to convert over and give carpet a try. New carpet off-road series starts end of the month here.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:01 PM
  #17394  
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma
Thank you very much for the fix!
you should also check the 2nd trans / wing mount screw. on mine, the screw is too long, or the trans isn't thick enough, and it interferes with the slipper plate. i put a 1mm washer under the screw head so it clears on the other side. i checked the contents of my kit several times, and this screw is the only one that can go there.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:37 AM
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Is anyone running 5 hole pistons in a rear motor set up if so what oil and springs are you using? thnx
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by blingy
Is anyone running 5 hole pistons in a rear motor set up if so what oil and springs are you using? thnx
I have not heard of anyone going 5 hole yet.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:19 AM
  #17397  
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Im trying them they woke my buggy up in the turns before it seemed to always push now it is very responsive im running 5x55's all around 35fr and orange springs 30rr yellow springs its a little soft im going to try 5x56 all around w/ 32fr and 27rr
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:46 AM
  #17398  
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new - Updated Shock Building Video with Dustin Evans

new - Turnbuckle Tips for The 22 Platform Vehicles

new - Building Drive Shafts for The 22 Platform Vehicles

^^^ looks like i'm packing way too much grease!

important! - Building a TLR 22 Diff with Matt Castellano.wmv

TLR's Matt Castellano On Ride Height And Camber

Preparing Your TLR Car For A Race

horizon, your customers need more of this, and it needs to be spammed all over.
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:19 PM
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Love those videos. Question, I have my first race with my 22 this coming weekend. A big race I may add. I havent drove a 2wd buggy in years. But race 1/8 buggy quite often, what setup should I go with for a indoor track, thats mainly clay? Want something thats not to twitchy but has good traction. Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:25 PM
  #17400  
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Originally Posted by MattB11741
Buggy is very drive able!! I really like the feel of the two hole pistons!!! The buggy bounces a little bit in the uneven areas of our track. I tried White springs and made the car inconsistent. Wanted to loop out occasionally!! I was going to try Pink springs but one of the guys spritzed the track with water and I didn't want to run when the track was different. Have you tried the pinks? How was the car different? Is it necessary to have the aluminum parts on the nose and rear?

Thanks for posting a great setup. I tried this with a full stick pack lipo, bought a shorty lipo, big change!! Shorty is a huge change in handling change!! I was shocked at how much!! Ran it in my truck also. Same change in it, just amazing!!!!
I have not tried pinks with this setup yet. Should take away some rear forward bite and free up the rear a little more in the corners.

for the buggy I really like the extra wieght in the front (bulkhead and brass shim). For mod helps keep the nose a little more stable. The rear camber block not as big a deal but TLR tranny wieght is not a bad thing either.

Glad you like the setup. And yes shorty packs are that big a change!
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