Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

Been out of the 1/10 scene for a while, have a few quick questions.

First, whats the scoop on the transmission spacers?

Also, does anyone have a really good high bite, tight, small indoor clay setup? I'm trying to get my car to turn and rotate more. Especially on power. Thanks

One more thing. Has anyone tried running a shorter chassis? I know at least one company who makes them.

Thanks guys

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

go here and look for Frank Root Reedy Race setup. That's the one I see suggested all the time.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...022#prodSetups

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

the man has returned! i think you will need to update your set up guide! lol

this for the tranny mod:

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...2-and-22t.html

F1Yankee

i'm still quite new, so bear with me. on a dry, hard, twisty track i'm digging my rear-motor hrc setup front and rear. despite the twisties, i'm also running max wheelbase to help with on-power steering and end of straight braking stability.

can you describe the dirt conditions that should favor an lrc setup? i'm not seeing the upside to unloading the inner wheels with roll, compressing the suspension and possibly running positive camber thru the turn. thanks in advance.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

LRC tends to really lock in the rear end a bit more laterally, where the HRC seems to have a bit more punch off grip. I run LRC about 95% or the time, as does much of the team, it seems to be a faster way around the track if the grip is medium to high. HRC should be easier to drive for some though, so it's worth trying both. Just be sure to raise/lower your inner ball stud by 1mm to keep the camber gain the same...

romian14

iTrader: (110)

Whats the best way to position a Shorty Lipo in the 22?

Rear or Towards the front?

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

LOL thanks, been really focused on 1/8 and my new Serpent Sponsorship, but it's getting close to 1/10 season again. Still get to run what 1/10 cars I like, so thats nice. For now

I'll be talking to Matt C too, obviously really nice to have him at the local track!

I wouldn't even know where to start with the guide.

If you guys want me to add some stuff just list it here I guess and I'll put it in.

I am tempted to try the shorter chassis, I only run rear motor and shorty battery so that's not an issue.


That all depends, usually I run it middle, but if you want more or less rear traction, you can move it forward or back more.

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I have my car configured where I can run a full sized pack at any time. I typically only run a shorty and typically run it with one pad laid down in front of the battery. I'll move it back sometimes for more rear weight bias.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

Back from my first race day with my TLR 22!!!

I freaking love this car!!!

Trinity D3.5 17.5T is in other class than my friends Revtech 17.5T with ht rotor. I started off with 32/70 gearing and in Blinky with no endbell timing it was keeping up to his Revtech with 33/70 gearing and max endbell timing. Mind also came off the track at 102* vs his at 125* after the first heat.

Didn't bring any other pinions with me so I just plugged up the Hotwire and maxed out the boost and left the endbell at 0. Was keeping up with some SCTs running 10.5T motors.

Ran the second heat and after 8 minutes it was just 120* so I have even more room to go up.

Went ahead and added 15* of turbo and while it was stupid fast it was just too much for the short straight away since even with a .15 delay it kicked in too late and didn't really help.

Switched from the JConcept Groovy to the Barcode up front and it really tamed down the steering since traction was so hard to find.

Double Dees did okay but the track was very loamy compared to normal and they caked up a little bit and didn't do as good as when the track is dry and dusty. Any suggestions in a batter tire?

sanny632

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys been out of racing for a long time started racing a scte an I really want a 22. My problem is I bought one on here as a roller now after studying the pics it is a rtr 22 not the race one. Hate myself. Is all the difference just the mid motor mount the Tim nitride shock shafts and hinge pins and the ball diff? Or is the rtr a junk replica like kyosho stuff? (kyosho rtr mostly garbage compared to kit). Basically It isn't shipped yet and I am hoping to get a refund. Please any help would be appreciated

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

my buddy has the RTR version and is actually a great car compared to other RTRs . shock shafts , shock caps , hinge pins , and diff are only things I remember that are different .

I guess it would really depend on the price to keep it or look for a race version . Other than the diff I really wouldn`t sweat it as many people seem to like the gear diff . Good luck in which way you go .

sanny632

iTrader: (17)

Thanks it was 165 shipped

takymo

the plastic shock caps in the RTR are great, I wouldnt change the hinge pins, and the shock shafts can only be betetr than the kit ones.
The titan shock shafts are really bad and if you could buy the steel oney I would try them but you can only buy the titan ones as spare.
I would go for the ball diff though, but Asso diff should fit too (maybe even kyosho) depands what you already have I would have a look first before buying the TLR ball diff. If you want to start with the gear diff start with 5000 cps

sanny632

iTrader: (17)

It takes the same oil as scte diffs? Start at 5000. I appreciate the help I will look for a ball diff on here. So I shouldn't be too worried that it's the rtr

jsinclair

iTrader: (3)

Losi ifmar pins for loam and smooth surfaces.

Losi big shots for loam and bumpy surfaces.