TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
run the aluminium battery holder in the same location where i have the battery holder now? or do i move that to the holes more at the center of the chassis??
Tech Champion
iTrader: (107)
I run the alum one set of hole forward. The alum battery holder has two sets of holes. I put two pads behind the shorty battery and then its real easy to get the battery out and have a good balance of steering and traction.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Are most of you guys running shorty packs on your 22? I've just been running full packs and am way over weight. Do you notice a big difference being able to tune by moving the battery[weight] around?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (107)
I have only used a shorty pack. Its what the pro's use and that is what I got used to.
My buggie has been really loose in the rear the last two weeks or so. I didnt get a chance to tear into it until last night. I found the diff seems really strange. When I turn each wheel in the opposite direction of one another it feels ok for half a turn then it kind of binds up and skips forward. It feels a little gritty but the binding up feel was kind of strange to me. I think I need to rebuild it.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I think the Losi team drivers mostly use shorty packs on tracks that are high bite. They use standard batteries on outdoor low bite tracks. I am sure it comes down to driver preference anyway. Maybe casper or another Losi driver can chime in on this. I have never tried standard packs. My 22 seems hooked with a shorty on any track surface.
Brian
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
My buggie has been really lose in the rear the last two weeks or so. I didnt get a chance to tear into it until last night. I found the diff seems really strange. When I turn each wheel in the opposite direction fo one another it feels ok for half a turn then it kind of binds up and skips forward. It feels a little gritty but the binding up feel was kind of strange to me. I think I need to rebuild it.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I liked both size packs at my local indoor track but it isn't high bite so that was probably why. I was able to jump into corners with the car set-up for the corner and have it stick and not slide out with the long pack. But thats common for a heavier car i've found. The only thing i missed was some pop out of the corners with the heavier pack.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
ok ive tried the search and no luck. can somebody please post the link that talks about the kickup/caster relationship thanks
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
Like the guys mentioned, you need the chassis to be bare, and have a completely, "guaranteed" flat surface; glass works best. Then, see if the chassis rocks from LF to RR, or RF to LR.
I have found all of my chassis to be within a small margin of flat, if not dead on. Keep in mind, this is off-road, and not touring car. We mounted 3oz ESC's of the left of the car with a 1/2oz receiver on the right for years and never found the car to be tweaked...food for thought.
My buggie has been really loose in the rear the last two weeks or so. I didnt get a chance to tear into it until last night. I found the diff seems really strange. When I turn each wheel in the opposite direction of one another it feels ok for half a turn then it kind of binds up and skips forward. It feels a little gritty but the binding up feel was kind of strange to me. I think I need to rebuild it.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Also my rear shocks were very low on fluid.
Do you think these problems would cause rear traction issues? My car likes to hook around turns and feels very inconsistant.
Painted up a new body for my 22!
Need to smooth the edges and get some stickers and I'll be set.
Need to smooth the edges and get some stickers and I'll be set.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Only short packs in both my buggy (22) and truck (22T). I haven't used a long pack in over a year now, and don't seem to see a need for long packs anymore. Unlike many, I actually have made my cars as light as possible and the handling is terrific, the cars so very easy to drive!
All titanium screws, titanium tie rods, aluminum nuts, titanium upper shock mounts, titanium ball studs, no added weight whatsoever, only front pivot, rear camber block in alum for reliability not weight and the battery cup to allow for more tuning movement for the short packs fore and aft... but honestly prefer the plastic parts if I could make them more reliable after a tumble over big jumps usually during practice when mixing it up with SCT's and 1/8 buggies on the track practicing.
Great job TLR, these vehicles are fun and easy to drive fast.
All titanium screws, titanium tie rods, aluminum nuts, titanium upper shock mounts, titanium ball studs, no added weight whatsoever, only front pivot, rear camber block in alum for reliability not weight and the battery cup to allow for more tuning movement for the short packs fore and aft... but honestly prefer the plastic parts if I could make them more reliable after a tumble over big jumps usually during practice when mixing it up with SCT's and 1/8 buggies on the track practicing.
Great job TLR, these vehicles are fun and easy to drive fast.