TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Not sure if anyone has posted things like this before.
Apparently you can put a regular 2S pack into a mid motor configuration.
It's fits just fine. In fact, the 1mm spacer for the servo make the battery just enough space for comfort.
I'm using solar D770 low profile servo, first time just trying out a low profile servo, took me quite some time to adjust.
Apparently you can put a regular 2S pack into a mid motor configuration.
It's fits just fine. In fact, the 1mm spacer for the servo make the battery just enough space for comfort.
I'm using solar D770 low profile servo, first time just trying out a low profile servo, took me quite some time to adjust.
I have TLR1072 frt aluminium pivot plate do i still use my brass frt shim or just use the frt pivot by itself??
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
All of the plastics on the Losi 22 RTR are the same plastics that we use on the TLR 22 Kit. The chassis on the 22 RTR is still 7075-T6 aluminum like the 22 kit but its not hard anodized.
The key differences between the 22RTR and 22 Kit are:
Chassis-Same material but different anodizing
Shock Caps-Plastic on the 22 RTR and aluminum on the 22 Kit
Shock Shafts and Hinge Pins-Same material on both cars. The kit uses titanium nitrided shock shafts where the RTR's pins and shock shafts are not coated.
Differential-RTR comes with a viscous filled gear differential. 22 kit comes with a ball diff. I think you find that many racers prefer gear differentials because of the durability factor. Ball differentials are prone to rebuilds often to keep them smooth.
Motor plate-same material on both cars. The kit has a lightened motor plate.
Rear toe-in block-same material on both cars. The kit's rear pivot is hard anodized and laser etched for identification. The 22 RTR comes equipped with 4 degrees of rear toe-in like the kit.
I suggest running the car and getting used to driving a 2wd buggy before upgrading to anything.
Good luck with the 22RTR. I hope you enjoy it. Its the best 2wd RTR on the market in terms of quality and performance.
The key differences between the 22RTR and 22 Kit are:
Chassis-Same material but different anodizing
Shock Caps-Plastic on the 22 RTR and aluminum on the 22 Kit
Shock Shafts and Hinge Pins-Same material on both cars. The kit uses titanium nitrided shock shafts where the RTR's pins and shock shafts are not coated.
Differential-RTR comes with a viscous filled gear differential. 22 kit comes with a ball diff. I think you find that many racers prefer gear differentials because of the durability factor. Ball differentials are prone to rebuilds often to keep them smooth.
Motor plate-same material on both cars. The kit has a lightened motor plate.
Rear toe-in block-same material on both cars. The kit's rear pivot is hard anodized and laser etched for identification. The 22 RTR comes equipped with 4 degrees of rear toe-in like the kit.
I suggest running the car and getting used to driving a 2wd buggy before upgrading to anything.
Good luck with the 22RTR. I hope you enjoy it. Its the best 2wd RTR on the market in terms of quality and performance.
Again much appreciated for all the help!
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
You still need the shim. The aluminum front pivot vs. the plastic is about the same weight off-set at the brass kick shim vs. the plastic kick shim, so I usually use one or the other. When running on high grip tracks, like WCRC for Reedy Race, I use both as a setup/tuning option.
I run both the brass kick shim and the aluminum pivot. Works great! Also use Frank's beginning setup. Buggy is on rails. Only thing limiting it is me driving it.
You still need the shim. The aluminum front pivot vs. the plastic is about the same weight off-set at the brass kick shim vs. the plastic kick shim, so I usually use one or the other. When running on high grip tracks, like WCRC for Reedy Race, I use both as a setup/tuning option.
Tech Regular
Now if I can only get my rear to remain planted. My track I usually ran at was very slick and I may not have been using the best tires.
Losi 22 buggy gearing with 17.5T motor
Hi guys, anybody can give me a tips for Losi 22 buggy gearing using 17.5T motor please? and what is the FDR average range I should be for using that type motor.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I'm selling my 22 roller with lots of extras. This car was a kit and not a rtr.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tc-roller.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tc-roller.html
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
So, that being said...
I run a 70T spur gear with 32T-34T pinions depending on conditions. I could not fit a 35T without going to button head motor screws. Even at that, the range given above is pretty fair for my indoor clay track.
70/32x2.6=5.68:1
70/33x2.6=5.51:1
70/34x2.6=5.35:1
17.5 blinky mode, +/-20 degrees timing on the motor can.
Hope this gets you started.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Sometime ago, I recall a recommendation of an FDR nearing 5:1.
So, that being said...
I run a 70T spur gear with 32T-34T pinions depending on conditions. I could not fit a 35T without going to button head motor screws. Even at that, the range given above is pretty fair for my indoor clay track.
70/32x2.6=5.68:1
70/33x2.6=5.51:1
70/34x2.6=5.35:1
17.5 blinky mode, +/-20 degrees timing on the motor can.
Hope this gets you started.
So, that being said...
I run a 70T spur gear with 32T-34T pinions depending on conditions. I could not fit a 35T without going to button head motor screws. Even at that, the range given above is pretty fair for my indoor clay track.
70/32x2.6=5.68:1
70/33x2.6=5.51:1
70/34x2.6=5.35:1
17.5 blinky mode, +/-20 degrees timing on the motor can.
Hope this gets you started.
22 internal drive is 2.43 not 2.6
70/32x2.6=5.31
70/33x2.6=5.15
70/34x2.6=5.00
Losi 22 gearing
Thank you for the info guys.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
according to page 33 of the manual the suggested starting gearing for a 17.5 is 76/30 which is almost equal to 70/28 (27.6). As always your results may vary.