1LikesB44.1 Thread
09-07-2011 | 10:00 PM
#618
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,010
Hey guys I put kyo regular shocks on and big bores on and the big bores barely fit. You have to put them on the outer holes to clear the body in rear. Both shocks are great performance wise, well older ae anyways. Buildability goes to kyo and takes the win for me. I like that I can get all the same all the time and in a hurry too.
09-08-2011 | 01:17 PM
#619
09-08-2011 | 01:22 PM
#620
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
09-08-2011 | 04:56 PM
#621
09-08-2011 | 04:59 PM
#622
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
09-09-2011 | 05:43 AM
#623
Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium 
A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.
1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks
2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic part that's supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix?
3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix?
4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again?
Thanks all for the help
Paul
A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.
1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks
2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic part that's supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix?
3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix?
4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again?
Thanks all for the help
Paul
09-09-2011 | 05:53 AM
#624
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
See below
Hi Guys I'm done with the build of my b44.1... this is my first 4wd offroad car since I ran my original xx4... last millenium
A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.
1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks Gonna happen. Even the factory guys do not have a tight front end. They like it that way. Hex should not come off with the pin in.
2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic part that's supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix? Issues here. Get a new top deck from AE. Mine is snug.
3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix? Mine is smooth. I would check the shims again, gear mesh.
4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? Again you have issues. Mine are tight as can be. Maybe you used the wrong pin to hold them on.
Thanks all for the help
Paul
A couple of things that have me puzzled, was wondering if you could help.
1- wobbly front wheels. The rims look fine, it's in the hex I'd say. Any known way to assemble them or mount them on the axle that'd minimize this? It's visually pretty scary to say the least. Any special tips on the hexes to prevent losing them everytime you change the fronts? Thanks
Gonna happen. Even the factory guys do not have a tight front end. They like it that way. Hex should not come off with the pin in.2- the steering post holes in the top deck are ridiculously much larger than the the plastic part that's supposed to go in it. This creates absurd amounts of slop in the steering system. Did I get a lemon, or is this common? Is it worth trying to fix? Issues here. Get a new top deck from AE. Mine is snug.
3- the car still sounds like a pepper mill despite breaking the primary drivetrain in for like 6hrs with an old brushed mill under 3V and shimming this properly (I think, at least definitely not on the tight side)... this is appalling, really.... any fix? Mine is smooth. I would check the shims again, gear mesh.
4- Center cvd cups - all wobbly on the slipper axle... is this "normal", again? Again you have issues. Mine are tight as can be. Maybe you used the wrong pin to hold them on.
Thanks all for the help
Paul
09-09-2011 | 06:10 AM
#625
Interesting - thanks.
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
09-09-2011 | 06:34 AM
#626
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
Interesting - thanks.
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
09-09-2011 | 07:19 AM
#627
Interesting - thanks.
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
09-09-2011 | 07:51 AM
#628
I meant the wobble. I was concerned as well. Happened to have a few AE drivers at the track I go to a few weeks back and all their cars did the same. I think the shims are 2/4. I would check the manual. Lastly my pins that hold on my hexes have to be installed with pliers. No chance of them coming out and a hex falling off.
Paul
09-09-2011 | 07:55 AM
#629
oh well. I guess I'll run it like that
Thanks
Paul
09-09-2011 | 09:22 AM
#630
Interesting - thanks.
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???
re #1 - were you referring to losing the hexes, or the wobble? it's mostly the latter I find surprising, really
re #3 - what drives me nuts is that I'm supposed to know about conical gears pretty well... my 8th scaler is usually looked at best-in-class in terms of freewheeling at my track, it will spin forever. Current shimming is 3+3 on both sides, and the backlash is "just right", less shimming to free it up will mean too much slop.
Will check #4 - then again I have no pins left once the build is done now
Thanks - feel free to comment anyone???