Got a 44.1 with alum front hub carriers and front brace, Kyosho big bores and 3 saddle packs for sale pm me email for pics. Have spares and extra diffs and custom bodies. Only run on carpet so it is super clean.

how did you get the big bores to fit? could you post a pic of the front shock tower area?

i havent talked to my LHS which could probably get it but where did you per-order it i can't find any in the USA

The track I race at back ordered it for me. Team Associated site has them on back order even though it was supposed to be available on the 7th. But they want 149.00 for one. Its tempting just to try one.
http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...ushless_Motors

Hey man I just talked to my LHS and I can preorder them and they will have the X – 20 in a week and the price is $109 tower hobbies has them for the same price and they also said about a week too

Right on. Looking forward to try it out.

Hey fellas, just started racing a B44 to sharpen my nitro skills. First thing I learn is that electrics are not as tough as the nitro cars. You kind of have to drive it like it is made of glass. Anyways, I can see a crack forming on my front tower. I was thinking of replacing it with the extreme racing 3 mm carbon fiber or an aluminum one. Which of the two do you think would be more durable?

If the aluminum is the better option, then what company makes a good quality part?

Thanks in advance.

HELP NEEDED!!!! I picked up a b44 with a little bit of b44.1 parts on it, I'm running a lrp tc spec with a lrp 6.5 motor...im running the bully dog body and it has the 2 holes in the front cut out to help cool it down...I was running 18/81 and it was getting aroung 178* and i went down a tooth to a 17 and its still running 175* after about an 8 minute run..It has a reedy 5200mah battery in it, its not the tube style its the hard wire style....any advice? I'm about to ditch the lrp speedo anytime for a tekin rs!!!

Get the 44.1 shock tower. Its thicker. And trust me you can drive the kit harder than you think if you use the tires to land on. Or glue 2 44 shock towers together. I had a rear shock tower take a hit from a Sc truck. I put CA on it and ran for ever. sold it with the crack and he is still racing it.
Stock shock caps front shock shafts and A/arms. You will be covered.

The LRP motor runs hot. Matter of fact it wont run cool. Whats the speedo temping? Check that 1st. I run the Sonic 6.5 and it comes off with the same gearing at 140.

The biggest reason most run hot is in the slipper......
Redo the slipper. Most of the time its slipping to much. Pull it and take some 600 grit and scuff it up. Scuff it in a figure eight motion. I mark mine after the first one with a marker so I don't use the same side twice.
Now take the the slipper disk and use the same procedure. Wet sanding is how I do mine using motor cleaner.
Now after you are sure it has no glaze clean it and don't get any finger oil on any of it or the pad.

Setting the slipper.....
Tighten it till you know it WONT SLIP!. Loosen it as you need more slip. It will last longer.
The failure of a slipper is usually due to running it to loose to long before getting set right.

Slipper tuning is pretty serious to making a motor and kit run awesome. I know the motor loves a good slipper.

BTW the fastest of the fast at our track don't run much if any in the 44's.

I own 2 B4.1 buggies and a Slash 4x4.
Thinking about the B44.1 kit.
I built one of my B4.1 from the kit and found it easy and fun.
Couple of questions.
1. How is the reliability of the B44.1?
2. How easy is the build, any problems?
I tried an SC10 4x4 kit and found the servo mount to be very poor in design and also the Diff's are very hard to get at. Sold it.

Any other advise on the B44.1?

Thanks...Rick

I give the 44.1 a 10 on fit and finish. I have not had any trouble to speak of on my 44.1. You will get a lot different feed back that shows most issues are of a personal problem that varies from each of us. I set my servo saver tight my slipper tight and I shim the gear side of the diff with all 6 shims and 5 spots of grease on the gear. Really that's all I would recommend on a new or rebuild. Your gonna break an A-Arm shock shaft and maybe a cap. So have shock eyelets shafts and arms and caps. The kit will out perform any other in its class plain and simple. Its the best of the best in its class IMO. Run it box stock and tweak it from there. After you hit the track you may want to try some hop ups but out of the box it has every thing you need to run with the front of the pack. I have enjoyed mine so far.

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

I'd agree with this assessment. My issues with the car are actually issues with my driving . I've broken front arms and front Shock caps. They're cheap and easy to replace parts so it's no biggie. I worried about the gears after I finished my build but after what I've put the car through, with zero gear box issues, I no longer worry. Shim like UN4RACING suggests and you'll be running for a very long time before the gears need replacing.

Your welcome.
Yep you got it. Every time I have had any trouble it is of my own doing. The 44 has never been at fault. Minor things can be done to prevent what appears to be big problems with the kit. And all with out buying a bunch of crap to make it more durable or faster.