Apocalypse2099

well i never got down to finding the issue with my diffs, i say it might just be old and they stick a bit, but the truck runs good for bashing so i'm not too worried.

Apocalypse2099

****just in case someone runs into this problem*********

i run a mamba max pro, castle 1410 3800kv 4pole motor on one, along with a hitec 985mg and spektrum set up.

i was getting really bad glitching after relocating the esc, anyways, i just moved the esc wires and servo wires away from the motor wires, and it fix the issue.

no need for a glitch buster or external bec.

Apocalypse2099

i was running the buggy late at nite, really dark, just a few street lamps. i do have leds on my body. while running 3s(easily reaching over 35mph) i slammed on the break cause my front was pulling right too sharp, the buggy kartwheel on the asphalt, a good 20 feet. surprisingly, nothing broke, only the zip tie on the rear arm.

after that i went back in and fixed the toe setting on my front wheels. lol.

i also hit the curve hard, and my tt flipped over it with out breaking anything.

it sucks running at night, but its the only time that the road is clear for doing speed runs.

Apocalypse2099

just a few pics with on road tires.

nightc

I'm running with 5k 60k 2k diff oil.. so far so good. Anyone run with this config before?
The track I'm playing is loose dirt, small jump 1/10th scale.

AUSSIEMIKE

I can't believe you hit something and or kartwheeled at over 35mph and nothing broke!?
Thats crazy! These truggies break at even the slightest hint of hitting something! I have every possible strengthening upgrade and even though I don't break as much as I used to (due to the stronger parts), it still is the most breakable car I own...

I am forever replacing broken parts on this thing. I don't mind working on the car as it's very easy to wrok on but the bloody amount of money that it soaks up on spares is ten fold my other cars. It doesn't help that my local hobby store (HH) is absolutley ridiculously expensive! Like 3-4 times the cost of buying online and paying freight!!!

AUSSIEMIKE

Hi mate.

I run with 5k, 7k and 2k oils in the diffs. I also have done alot of diff modifications which makes them alot smoother, lighter and less drag too. the surface I run on is indoor carpet though.
If anything, on dirt track, I would maybe lighten the oils 1 or 2 grades ands thats it. Just to give a bit more slip and better steering on the looser surface...


if you are happy with it, don't change it and just race it to get the hang of the thing. Thats my weakness i love to wrench on it more than race it

Cheers.

Apocalypse2099

my most durable rc, is my 4x4 stampede. the 10 tts are ok, i dont really bash them hard. lol. just in accident, i hit stuff. the broken parts if i can fix them with zip ties and shoo goo i do so. one of my rear arms is that way now. also the rear bushing holders for the arms. they have cracked, one i modded an hpi part which is thicker aluminum and now i dont use bushings on that side, the other i just got a flat tool and drilled holes and its reinforcing the cracked bushing holder.

i hate buying parts and if i can fix them i do so, but i just keep fixing them till they are totally fubar. ofcourse i do have the spares for when that moment comes.

but most of the folks i know they replace stuff even when it doesnt need to.

nightc

Hey mate,

I have the same weakness too

I'll try to hang on to this setting for now. Feels ok for me.

I'm trying to figure out what is the original factory setting like cause I think it comes out of the box pretty good.

nikkon

iTrader: (251)

Just got one of these in a trade I was planning to build for bashing but the way it sounds might be to fragile for what I plan on using it for. What are the weak spots or known problems on the truggy other than the arms and knuckles?Thinking I May be better off selling it and picking up and stampede to mess with.

Apocalypse2099

you will need,

aluminum top plate
aluminum rear hubs
aluminum front steering knuckles
aluminum chassis braces
rear cvds(use the front ones on the rear)

that's what i got on mine. but if you are a hardcore basher, this thing wont last you a pack. casual bashing nothing crazy, its awesome.

i use one as a basher and the other one has onroad tires for smooth driving.

muck

iTrader: (19)

my turn to chime in. I agree for hard core bashing this truck would not work unless you can land right 90% of the time. For throwing it around a track, yard, or sandy area, go for it. WE hit may pipes on the track and it did just fine.
I went through a slew of front arms, knuckles, and top plates bashing in cooler weather. That was about it.
I think once i put the TBR bumpers on it, that helped a bunch. I wish i would have held on to it a little longer, shortly after i sold it some one came out with the alum knuckles.
Between the bumpers and the alum upgrades mentioned above it maybe a better truck. Keep in mind, most 8th scale Uggies get the same upgrades.

Apocalypse2099

13/42 on 3s with a 1410 3800kv motor and mamba max pro esc.

the 3s is a venom.

ran 41mph. i could have gone faster but my steering was pulling hard to the right.

i need to work on that now.

CTRJ

iTrader: (13)

Question for the group...

I just got a used Hyper 10TT and bolted in a new SCT/3800 combo. I'm using the stock 13 tooth pinion. When I run a 3S lipo, the truck will make a few passes up and down the street (at full throttle) and then quit. The steering continues to work but the ESC starts emitting a tone similar to when I turn it on. The truck wont move for several moments and then it will. Am I overheating the ESC? It seems like people are running this combo (3800/3S) without any issues. Any thoughts?

muck

iTrader: (19)

i ran mine with the MMP ESC. Do you have a way to take temps? I had to make a fan for the SW ESC when i ran it on 2s in my Rustler.