I second the top shaft bearings- Just had to replace mine. My car sounded like a chainsaw. Outside bearing was frozen. Inside was very gritty.

I'll do that.

I also remember now that Mike's has PRS pinions, but I think most of them are 64p. I was there today I should have looked.

On a side note, just finished going through the transmission.

-Everything looks fine. No teeth messed up or anything.
-Put a slight coating of GMK Mobil 1 red grease on all the gears (helped in my 4wd with noise) and helped slightly, but once I ran the car on the bench it didn't sound like it changed at all.
-Didn't change the top shaft bearings. They're the same as the front wheel bearings right?

I reversed the direction of the idler gear, and coated the top shaft gear in black grease. It is much quieter on power, but off power it whines something horrible.

The top bearings are fine, they are brand new, and the shaft spins free and silent with the countergear removed.

Thank you for the absolute hobby link, I ordered the shock collars and some front barcodes.

new motor plate
new top shaft
new counter gear
new diff gear
new spur
new pinion


grease gears with clear diff lube

Will be quite after done , promise...


If you have reverse the gears ? You also have now changed the pitch of the gears thus all the noise ....

Must install gear's , including the spur in original rotating position ...

You can try many other different solutions to resolve excess noise and only fail compared to replacing with new ....

After your done should get weeks of racing with before noise comes back from wear.

note

Just switch pinion gears after using for a while ?

Can become noisy just due to the new pinion is out of pitch with old spur gear....

Whats' up all,
Getting tired of waiting for AE to deliver on the big bores so I'm going to do the conversion and I'll start with Losi 12mm springs. As I dont want to invest a whole lot in this, what a good spring set for a dry dusty track where rear wheel bite is difficult. I'm not a winner yet just a runner but I want to continue to improve so your help with starting spring will help and be much appreciated!!!! I'm running 35 oil in front and 30 in the rear but can change if necessary.


Kevin

The AE top shaft is made overseas and is very cheap quality, the Xfactory one is made in the US and is much higher quality metal and machining

Even if your bearings are new and feel fine and are brand new, once you put a side load on them the cheaper bearings get rough and load. Whenever my car starts to get noisy, I change the top shaft bearings and re-lube the internal gears with pledge and its whisper quiet.

Hideeho
Pledge!? The furniture polish?! Now that I think about it, it makes a wood tabletop very smooth & slick. It stays in place so it wouldn't get flung off @ 30k rpms. Will it cause problems w/ bearings or diff balls/plates?

I'd start off with buying Red/Orange for fronts, and White/Pink/Yellow for rears. It's not all that expensive. I think the springs are only 6 a pair. For your rear, I'd go with something soft to get the car to roll and give you a little more rear traction. Also, go down in your oil weight to get the same thing. I run on a similar type surface and I run 30/27.5 or 30/25 when it gets real dry.

[QUOTE=Chad Smith;10728841]This past Friday was my first race with my B4.1 Worlds Car coming from a 22, and all I can say is WOW! All the promblems I had with the 22, like no traction and I could never get it to steer enough or stop pushing. The B4 was completly the opposite I had rear traction and the buggy didnt push at all! The stock worlds setup definatly is a nice place to start. =QUOTE]

my exact experience as well.

The AVID hexes are way better than the rest. Proline is complete garbage, Jconcepts is a bit better but the avid is WAY better.

Indy R/C World in Garland stocks them normally.

does anyone here drive on a outdoor offroad loose track?? with the stock shocks??

So whats the benefit of shaving the u brace under the rear shock tower.and where exactly do you shave it ???

az


Only shave off the stud stump (.060) on Ubrace when you use the carbon C-brace .


Both parts together lower the roll center , Edit: more not less roll in the corners...