Actually i have the rtr version. I have the stock shocks.

Just go with the cavalieri set up from rc10.com I ran that setup with Bar codes and it was dialed, just make sure you drill the 4th hole in the rear tower and don't worry about changing the rear hubs (unless the track has a lot of tight corners), just run the 0.5* that come in the kit. other than that follow the setup exactly including weights and battery position, it should be a good starting point.

My ride...

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...1/DSC03622.jpg

Esc: Tekin RS
Motor: Novak 17.5 SS
Tires: Panther Clay Bobcats/Switches

I thought Associated moved that hole on the tower as a running change.

Afaik that was just for the B4.1 towers...

Those front tires look really wide are they 4wd tires?

Bought em used, guy wasn't sure but after looking at Panther's site...looks like...:(

I have patience so that I'm not worried about. Mo proved that slower is faster when he beat all the mod guys with a 13.5 a few years ago:cool: I just want to get the car to feel a bit better in my hands. There's nothing like track time and I'm lacking a bit in that department. After talking with Lex in great detail I can't wait to run again with the suggested changes.

As a novice racer I quickly learned that speed comes a very distant second to consistency. I use as little motor as possible and do everything I can to stay on the fast line.

Does a Turnigy 5000 hard case lipo fit in a b4.1? What lipos fit?

You lost me there bud. I ran within 2 secs of the track record last weekend with it only being the 4th time racing the car. The tires I picked up off a guy selling a whole box of spares as he was changing brands.

They gave me the steering I was looking for over the stock rubber, dropped my best laptime by 0.4 of a sec and picked up an entire lap over the race...I'm just disappointed I'm gonna have to try something else lol...

I am officially stumped!
 

I am officially stumped! On my B4.1, I tried to run the front shocks inside on the tower and inside on the A-arm. The only problem is that when I do this, the steering block hits the A-arm when its at full lock and the A-arm is fully extended.

I have have swapped out caster blocks, steering blocks, checked the linkage over and over. I've checked the camber, the bulkhead, and the steering rack. I've also referenced the manual and other people B4s multiple times.

Its the weirdest thing, my linkage is identical to my buddy's B4 and he has a healthy 2-3mm of clearance over the A-arm when the steering block is at full lock.

This is both sides, I've got to be missing something. Its just not that complicated of a car. By all means, feel free to take a stab at this one, I am all ears and very frustrated.

I want to run inside-inside with my front shocks but can't because of this.

kyle when you run inside/inside up front you need to add more limiters in the shock, not sure how many you have now but you usually add 1-2 extra limiters to use that inside arm hole. You have more droop now so the steering arm hits the suspension arm on full extension. Limiters would fix this right up.

I am running two limiters inside the shocks. Right now I have the shocks inside on the tower and outside on the A-arm, there is minimal droop, yet the steering blocks are still really close to the A-arm. I also forgot to mention that the steering blocks are in the middle position on the caster block.

Are you using an inline axle steering block? If so you need to make sure the spacer is moved to the front of the caster block.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...nline.axle.pdf