Ditto. Good trick that has always worked well for me.

FYI, the correct pistons were actually in a separate plastic bag by themselves. The extras were in another bag all together.

If Maybell at RC Hobbies in Woodinville is out of stock, Scotty at Tacoma R/C has a whole wall full (probably 15+ sets) in stock.

Thread lock on b4.1 plastic
 

Hey guys,

Just finished building my first off road kit (FT b4.1) and I’m very impressed.
I was wondering if someone can advise me if it's safe for thread lock to make contact with the b4.1 plastic parts?
In some areas like the transmission case it seems unavoidable, I've had issues with thread lock eating my car in the past!!:confused:
I'm using Loctite 243 which is a medium strength thread lock, is that good?

Cheers....Azza:)

My b4.1 was missing 2 nylon washers for the shocks!
The only thing I was disappointed with otherwise a very good kit.

I was 100% sure they were bagged with the shafts but I knew they put them in seperate bags with or stapled to corresponding front and rear hardware.

Nobody has any comments on the fact that you can't take ALL the air out of the new shocks without creating negative presure/vacuum inside?

No idea, never had loctite eat plastic, not yet anyway:eek:

I don't understand what you are doing. I built my T4.1 transmission with zero loctite and every screw is snug and the it spins completely free...

A small dab of lock tight is advised , the new case has very little flex and the trans screws can come loose after a few runs ...

Yeah gotta have air inside or the shock will not perform correctly, V2 is a

Emulsion shock design....

Negative rebound occurs when you pushed to much oil out the bleed hole ...

You and I know that, it's just the way some talk about bleeding them that can confuse people. Just for curiosity sake, I would think that if you bleed too much oil out, you have too much oil and not enough air in the shock to begin with before bleeding.?. Just tryin' to help those who may have issues with this..
I've got mine dialed and love them and they don't leak!!

Ditto. I keep watching them after every run expecting some oil to leak out as previous AE shocks have done for me. However after a dozen runs not a single drop of oil has escaped, and that's without green slim, well done AE!

your answers to other peoples questions in various threads have helped me out alot. i just wanted to thank you!:tire:

When the bleeder caps first came out I read to bleed the shock and then pull the shaft all the way back out. This puts the correct amount of air into the shock. I have been doing this since the bleeder caps came out and it works just fine.

The bleeder caps aren't for getting all the air out, they are to make it easier to get the left and right shock exactly the same. It also makes it easier when rebuilding to get the exact same fill.

The reason for pulling the shock shaft out on a bladder shock is to pull negative pressure on the bladder so that when you screw the shock cap on it does not let air in past the bladder. At least that was my experience from building bladder TC shocks.

hey, im ordering up some new tools, i cant remember for the life of me what size nut driver i need for the rear wheels on my buggy, im at work getting ready to place an order, what size nut driver do i need

11/32