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Old 09-28-2010, 04:18 PM
  #481  
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I recently finished building up my kit and I'm concerned about how much noise the car make when you turn the rear wheels by hand. Without the pinion and spur meshed it is really smooth and quiet. But when the motor is mounted and the mesh seems properly set it always makes a bunch of noise and feels kind of notchy? I did try another pinion and it did not help. Could my motor plate be bent or something not straight causing the top shaft and motor not to be perfect parallel to each and throwing off the gear mesh?

I haven't ran the kit other than running it up and down the driveway a time or 2 by the way.. Is this simply just something that will go away as the gears/ball diff wears in?
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:23 PM
  #482  
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the b4 has cvd's while the b4.1 has cva's like on the b44. so the "bowl" part is on the axle instead of the bone
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pfunk66
I recently finished building up my kit and I'm concerned about how much noise the car make when you turn the rear wheels by hand. Without the pinion and spur meshed it is really smooth and quiet. But when the motor is mounted and the mesh seems properly set it always makes a bunch of noise and feels kind of notchy? I did try another pinion and it did not help. Could my motor plate be bent or something not straight causing the top shaft and motor not to be perfect parallel to each and throwing off the gear mesh?

I haven't ran the kit other than running it up and down the driveway a time or 2 by the way.. Is this simply just something that will go away as the gears/ball diff wears in?
It's the gear mesh pfunk, it took me a couple times too. Look up the paper trick... it works for me. Slip a sheet of paper in between spur and pinion gear then make sure it makes a little indent on the paper. Be aware though as you tighten the motor screws down it can shift the position of the motor hence making it too tight and then you hear the noise. Go slow and even as possible when tightening down the motor set screws.

I've done this plenty of times and it still takes me three times to get it right sometimes.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:20 PM
  #484  
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Originally Posted by RA99GT
the b4 has cvd's while the b4.1 has cva's like on the b44. so the "bowl" part is on the axle instead of the bone
Is there an advantage to this? (or a problem with using cvd's?) I actually have the cvd's in mine right now... properly shimmed they seem fine to me.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:33 PM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by Weazsel
It's the gear mesh pfunk, it took me a couple times too. Look up the paper trick... it works for me. Slip a sheet of paper in between spur and pinion gear then make sure it makes a little indent on the paper. Be aware though as you tighten the motor screws down it can shift the position of the motor hence making it too tight and then you hear the noise. Go slow and even as possible when tightening down the motor set screws.

I've done this plenty of times and it still takes me three times to get it right sometimes.
I tried it several times and the mesh even seems kind of loose right now.. I think I ran the mesh tighter than it is now on my 1/8 losi when I had it. i'll give it another go and see what I come up with. I did try the paper trick.. maybe I'll try some thicker paper?
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:53 PM
  #486  
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What is the difference between the B4 and B4.1? I can't find any real info anywhere.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:00 PM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by Weazsel
Is there an advantage to this? (or a problem with using cvd's?) I actually have the cvd's in mine right now... properly shimmed they seem fine to me.
no idea. maybe so it's not designed the same way as the mip cvd, which came out in the early 90's? i do think that the retaining clip on the cva works better though.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:02 PM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by Stregone
What is the difference between the B4 and B4.1? I can't find any real info anywhere.
Look at the Team Associated website, it will list all of the improvements.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:07 PM
  #489  
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Originally Posted by Weazsel
I'll tell you in a few minutes... I just changed my black grease in my diff to silicone oil. I'm putting the diff back together then installing "B4" cvds...

Well are they the same? When you put a cvd and a newer cva next to each other are the pin holes in the same location and is the length of 2 the same? Were you able to shim them the same to fit properly? thanks!
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:08 PM
  #490  
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Originally Posted by Stregone
What is the difference between the B4 and B4.1? I can't find any real info anywhere.
Factory Team 0.5° aluminum rear hubs with oversized outer bearing
Ball differential with lightweight outdrives (sc10 tranny case, outdrives, rear chassis plate)
Factory Team V2 hard-anodized threaded shock bodies with bleed-screw caps
V2 slipper assembly with high-rate spring for more consistent slipper clutch adjustments
CVA drive shafts with pin retainer clips
Suspension mounts for 4°, 3.5°, 3°, and 2.5° rear toe included

all info from-->http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a.../Factory_Team/

also, all plastic parts from new molds for the arms, front shock tower, rear tower (with the 4th hole=inside hole), and chassis, gt2 caster block and steering spindles, new steering rack, new servo horn w/support ring
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:36 PM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
Well are they the same? When you put a cvd and a newer cva next to each other are the pin holes in the same location and is the length of 2 the same? Were you able to shim them the same to fit properly? thanks!
Hey sorry, got caught up wrenching. I don't have the new cva's because I got the rtr. I ordered b4 (not b4.1) cvd's which do fit and feel awesome. With three shims on each sides perfect is the only word to describe it...

The length, I don't know... I'm assuming they would have to be the same? If not ridiculously close.

Last edited by Weazsel; 09-28-2010 at 07:40 PM. Reason: tried to add photo, not enough posts yet.
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Old 09-29-2010, 07:44 AM
  #492  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
Well are they the same? When you put a cvd and a newer cva next to each other are the pin holes in the same location and is the length of 2 the same? Were you able to shim them the same to fit properly? thanks!
they better be the same, I just switched them out as I'm getting the car re-done for the indoor season. Whole new trans, outdrives bearings and CVA's instead of CVD's. they shimmed the same.
My plan is to change parts as they wear out. I'll need to replace them at some point anyway, so I'll just buy the new versions when I do. I actually can't wait to put the new shocks on it though. I might have to push the car down a few hundred times on the pit table before each race to wear out the shock bodies a little faster.
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:24 PM
  #493  
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What is the difference between the B4 and B4.1? I can't find any real info anywhere.
Almost 3/4 a pound heavier...And no carbon components...
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:37 PM
  #494  
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You'll probably find the CVAs create a smoother driving car. CVDs make the car drive more square through corners. They are very similar, the difference is subtle.
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:13 PM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by mattleegee
Is that the same as
ASC7477 & ASC7483
Off amainhobbies ?

I bought the RTR t4.1 and want to possibly upgrade

Anyone?

Im trying to ask if i can but the ~$20 kit and add them to the stock t4.1 shocks to make them threaded?
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