I'm building my big bore shocks and trying to select the right shock spring cup but I was told by the manual to put +5mm but there wasn't one label with a 5 on the cup.

I also notice there are like several of the same numbers, for example, there is a 4 on the cup, but I see like a long and short one. Whats the difference?

Numbers on cups mean nothing. Middle size cups are 5mm

Well because of you and a few others, a new world is now there for me to ponder. I've already had a few Advils to help. LOL.

I wasn't sold on the Shorty packs at first. They have things going for them and against them depending on what you are after. I do like the idea that with a shorty pack, if you feel that you need a little more weight in the car, you can put it right where you need it. A tuning option for sure. They do seem to carry a little more corner speed, which would make sence if the overall weight of the car is lighter with a shorty pack. I have the BB's as well and I do think they're a worthy investment. I don't think it's a night and day gain with them as much as going from the short chassis to the +8mm chassis was. Yet something else for me to ponder with the BB's.

if the track flows well the standard packs are fine car feels dead. but it does land harder when you over clear a jump, with the shorty i can drive much harder and aggressive. Also it changes directions faster, gets out of the slow corner quicker, slows down faster, lands better. So Im pretty much sold on the shorty. Well, LIGHT WEIGHT PACK.. Im running a 4000mah 2s standard size pack. so maybe a ounce more then a shorty. but its cheap and with a 7.5 im not worried about the c rate.

I didn't really notice much going from the short to the long chassis other than the car seemed to be more predictable in rotation. To be honest, next to the big bores, the change to a cab forward body on both my truck and my buggy were the largest changes I've experienced in a long time.

Two questions:

Are titanium hinge pings worth the $$?

My ESC (Viper VTX10) is mounted way towards the front of the chassis vs the rear. How bad an situation is it? I've never raced it and certainly don't wish to start out the wrong way.

Pick the medium side cups like said before. The number on the cups is just the number of the mold it was made in. They number them so if they start getting faulty parts they can trace it back to the machine with the problem.

What did the cab forward body do? More front down force?

Thanks

Does anyone else have an issue with the screw that holds the shock eyelet on the rear a-arms popping out? It kept happening to me at the track today even when I switched it to the other hole. Any ideas of what could be causing this and way to fix/prevent this from happening?

Unless your breaking your hinge pins left and right, I don't see why you would need it. Its not a very vulnerable part to damage compared to others.

On the buggy, jump stability and high speed stability. Made a huge impact on the tendency of the car to "dead sailor" and come down on its back motor plate if you held the power too long on a take-off. Car was far more stable overall in high speed corners such as strong sweepers at the end of a straight.

On the truck, just more traction overall, period. Oh, it also keeps the front end down and prevents a lot of wheelies when you're balls out down the straight with the truck.

Well you can always put a small dab of CA glue in the hole and that'll keep it in there. But you might just have a stripped out arm(s). It's pretty common it happens every once in a while.

IF its the passenger side its because the movement of the a arm actually unscrews it as it swings up and down. Dab of ca or new arm, or if you want to get crazy you can put a long screw thru the arm with a nut on back, but that's overkill. I've only done that once due to new parts being unavailable

Lunsford titanium are guaranteed for life, so you buy one set and that's it.....Forever! Same with turnbuckles.

Fair enough. It would seem as though that may be part of the reason some Team setups reference one of the full size Wolfpacks. According to the specs, it's very close in weight to the Reedy shorty pack I think.

Just for fun, I doubled up on the weights in my buggy. Buggy weighed in heavy enough for the minium wheeler weight. Buggy was a lot more stable and always seemed to have traction, along with good high speed steering. But......., it didn't like a change of direction quickly. Wore out rear tires a lot faster and a few other things. The extra weight didn't stay in there long. LOL.