R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   RC10B4.1 FT/WC (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/418841-rc10b4-1-ft-wc.html)

66Racer 12-15-2012 08:55 PM

I really wanted to get shorties for my setup but considering i needed to get 3 packs to feel comfortable on race day, I went with $50 standard crc 5300mah 40c for 17.5. The car handles great and feels fast considering i have an old novak ss 17.5 but cant help but wonder what shorties will feel like.

zipperfoot 12-15-2012 09:32 PM


Originally Posted by Gene158 (Post 11559593)
Let's say I go with this shorty; what kind of run time can I expect with a 17.5?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...APPROVED_.html

I am going to try one of those packs, the price is right! I have been running Thunder Power 65c 3800 shorty packs for about a year with no issues. Very good batteries, but $80 a pop.

mtpocketsracing 12-15-2012 09:35 PM

some guy at the track last night was talking trash about the turnigy batteries only because they're so inexpensive.
he overheard me talking to my buddy and said "you get what you pay for".
I've seen plenty of you guys giving them a good review and bigsquidrc (I think) did a shoot out with them and scored them in 2nd beating out batteries 2 and 3 times their price.

Kellen Guthrie 12-15-2012 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by Tradin Paint (Post 11559589)
Matt
A 60C 4000 mAh pack will have less overall power than a 60C 5000 mAh pack correct?

Yeah same C rating with more mAh will give you more punch. In stock i've found the short pack to be a lot better. In modified use either a long pack or a wolfpack. The wolf packs work really well because it's low profile and it's in between the weight of short and long pack.

zipperfoot 12-15-2012 09:58 PM


Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing (Post 11559906)
some guy at the track last night was talking trash about the turnigy batteries only because they're so inexpensive.
he overheard me talking to my buddy and said "you get what you pay for".
I've seen plenty of you guys giving them a good review and bigsquidrc (I think) did a shoot out with them and scored them in 2nd beating out batteries 2 and 3 times their price.

I would have really liked to ask that guy how he came to his conclusion. Did he have one and find it inferior to a more expensive brand? Or was he just regurgitating what some other rocket scientist told him. To me thats like saying we should all buy a rb6 because it's $200 more than a b4.1, and you get what you pay for...

My criteria for a battery is:

Does it provide enough power throughout the cycle and provide decent run times?
Does it last for more than a couple of months without swelling or having a noticeable drop off in power?
Does the manufacture warranty the battery and answer the phone?

If a $5 battery met that criteria id buy them by the dozen.

Tradin Paint 12-15-2012 09:59 PM


Originally Posted by 66Racer (Post 11559819)
I really wanted to get shorties for my setup but considering i needed to get 3 packs to feel comfortable on race day, I went with $50 standard crc 5300mah 40c for 17.5. The car handles great and feels fast considering i have an old novak ss 17.5 but cant help but wonder what shorties will feel like.

Why do you need 3 packs for a race night. Do you leave your charger at home? assuming you have a charger you can do it with 1 pack but you would be busy 2 packs is probably ideal.

gacjr0 12-15-2012 10:12 PM

I have been racing my (1) 3400 35C wolf pack in stock and mod buggy with a 17.5. Burning less than 1000 mah in a 5 min heat with 4-5 warm up laps and 2-3 cool down laps makes it easy to top off before the next run.

That's 6 runs in a night, 5 min quals., 7 min mains, mod buggy ran last so I ran 5 min more with so little drop off.

BillPear 12-15-2012 11:43 PM


Originally Posted by zipperfoot (Post 11559965)
I would have really liked to ask that guy how he came to his conclusion. Did he have one and find it inferior to a more expensive brand? Or was he just regurgitating what some other rocket scientist told him. To me thats like saying we should all buy a rb6 because it's $200 more than a b4.1, and you get what you pay for...

My criteria for a battery is:

Does it provide enough power throughout the cycle and provide decent run times?
Does it last for more than a couple of months without swelling or having a noticeable drop off in power?
Does the manufacture warranty the battery and answer the phone?

If a $5 battery met that criteria id buy them by the dozen.

Based on your criteria I bought the right battries, REEDY 5500's for my SCT and 4000 shorties for my B4.1

I've been running mine for nearly a year with no issues always balance out no sign of swelling plenty of power and run time. If they blew up in the garage tomorrow, Id by 4 more all over again! Money well spent.

Kellen Guthrie 12-16-2012 12:56 AM


Originally Posted by BillPear (Post 11560139)
Based on your criteria I bought the right battries, REEDY 5500's for my SCT and 4000 shorties for my B4.1

I've been running mine for nearly a year with no issues always balance out no sign of swelling plenty of power and run time. If they blew up in the garage tomorrow, Id by 4 more all over again! Money well spent.

Yeah that's the way to go the reedy batteries are nice. I've temped my short pack at 142 degrees. No puffing or anything.

jdtwenty6 12-16-2012 09:04 AM

1 Attachment(s)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks

YankeeFan123 12-16-2012 09:16 AM


Originally Posted by jdtwenty6 (Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks

Make sure that you use a small wrench or tool to push it down while you tighten the other side.

hobbyten 12-16-2012 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by jdtwenty6 (Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks

PULL IT BACK OUT AND CHECK FOR FLASHING ON THE NUT AND MAKE SURE THERE IS NOTHING IN THE HOLE.

RC-ZOMBIE 12-16-2012 10:13 AM

New lower price at Amain! $230 I wonder if the B4.2 is around the corner?

Matt Trimmings 12-16-2012 10:18 AM


Originally Posted by jdtwenty6 (Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks

Make sure you put the nut/screw in the correct outdrive when building the diff.

Wildcat1971 12-16-2012 10:35 AM


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 11559763)
Too bad the main was only 10, and it obviously didn't help him any.

lol, it was Kyle. I assume he bumped and used one charge. But the info was taken with a grain of salt.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:13 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.