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I really wanted to get shorties for my setup but considering i needed to get 3 packs to feel comfortable on race day, I went with $50 standard crc 5300mah 40c for 17.5. The car handles great and feels fast considering i have an old novak ss 17.5 but cant help but wonder what shorties will feel like.
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Originally Posted by Gene158
(Post 11559593)
Let's say I go with this shorty; what kind of run time can I expect with a 17.5?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...APPROVED_.html |
some guy at the track last night was talking trash about the turnigy batteries only because they're so inexpensive.
he overheard me talking to my buddy and said "you get what you pay for". I've seen plenty of you guys giving them a good review and bigsquidrc (I think) did a shoot out with them and scored them in 2nd beating out batteries 2 and 3 times their price. |
Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
(Post 11559589)
Matt
A 60C 4000 mAh pack will have less overall power than a 60C 5000 mAh pack correct? |
Originally Posted by mtpocketsracing
(Post 11559906)
some guy at the track last night was talking trash about the turnigy batteries only because they're so inexpensive.
he overheard me talking to my buddy and said "you get what you pay for". I've seen plenty of you guys giving them a good review and bigsquidrc (I think) did a shoot out with them and scored them in 2nd beating out batteries 2 and 3 times their price. My criteria for a battery is: Does it provide enough power throughout the cycle and provide decent run times? Does it last for more than a couple of months without swelling or having a noticeable drop off in power? Does the manufacture warranty the battery and answer the phone? If a $5 battery met that criteria id buy them by the dozen. |
Originally Posted by 66Racer
(Post 11559819)
I really wanted to get shorties for my setup but considering i needed to get 3 packs to feel comfortable on race day, I went with $50 standard crc 5300mah 40c for 17.5. The car handles great and feels fast considering i have an old novak ss 17.5 but cant help but wonder what shorties will feel like.
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I have been racing my (1) 3400 35C wolf pack in stock and mod buggy with a 17.5. Burning less than 1000 mah in a 5 min heat with 4-5 warm up laps and 2-3 cool down laps makes it easy to top off before the next run.
That's 6 runs in a night, 5 min quals., 7 min mains, mod buggy ran last so I ran 5 min more with so little drop off. |
Originally Posted by zipperfoot
(Post 11559965)
I would have really liked to ask that guy how he came to his conclusion. Did he have one and find it inferior to a more expensive brand? Or was he just regurgitating what some other rocket scientist told him. To me thats like saying we should all buy a rb6 because it's $200 more than a b4.1, and you get what you pay for...
My criteria for a battery is: Does it provide enough power throughout the cycle and provide decent run times? Does it last for more than a couple of months without swelling or having a noticeable drop off in power? Does the manufacture warranty the battery and answer the phone? If a $5 battery met that criteria id buy them by the dozen. I've been running mine for nearly a year with no issues always balance out no sign of swelling plenty of power and run time. If they blew up in the garage tomorrow, Id by 4 more all over again! Money well spent. |
Originally Posted by BillPear
(Post 11560139)
Based on your criteria I bought the right battries, REEDY 5500's for my SCT and 4000 shorties for my B4.1
I've been running mine for nearly a year with no issues always balance out no sign of swelling plenty of power and run time. If they blew up in the garage tomorrow, Id by 4 more all over again! Money well spent. |
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i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Originally Posted by jdtwenty6
(Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Originally Posted by jdtwenty6
(Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks
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New lower price at Amain! $230 I wonder if the B4.2 is around the corner?
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Originally Posted by jdtwenty6
(Post 11561100)
i have a problem. im building my ft kit b4.1 and when i built the ball diff, the t nut is in the way of the cv axle from moving up and down. Its like its supposed to go in more but it is as tight as it will go. i attached a picture, any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
(Post 11559763)
Too bad the main was only 10, and it obviously didn't help him any.
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