RC10B4.1 FT/WC

Old 10-18-2012 | 04:24 PM
  #22516  
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Originally Posted by Lowrance
Do you think shock mounting angle maybe the cause of the shock drawing air from the bottom. Lots of spacing going to fit these shocks to the towers with shaving material from thr tower. Bad angles could be putting a side hold on the seal package creating the air leak.
Originally Posted by kyle3333
I would just like to know why AE didn't make the BBs exactly like the shocks used on the SC10 4x4, those shocks are great. I would also like to know why AE can't just put out a high demand product that just works. I know, bitching about it doesn't really help anything, but it's 2012, come on AE really. It should also be noted that I have had confirmation that the clear Kyosho x-rings do work. So that MAY indicated that there are some quality control issues where the components are manufactured. I don't know, just bummed that instead of seeing posts on how super awesome these BBs are, there is nothing but debating on how to get them to simply work properly. What a bunch of horse sh*t. For those of you not having issues, sorry for the post.
Originally Posted by Eli
My big bores are awesome!!!!
Originally Posted by Venom1836
Agreed.

I mean really?!

What are the guys like Maifield and Caverleri doing to get their BB's working?
I am sure if they had problems they would have told AE?
Originally Posted by Matt Ward
Mine too. They just take a good bit longer to get all the air out.
Originally Posted by CT RACER
Well my 2 cents is all the people bitching about these shocks I'm guessing you didn't build them correctly. I mean mine work fine and Alot of other people's are just fine also. So why aren't yours fine hmm. Maybe you don't know how to build a dam shock Jesus stop complaining about it already team associated wouldn't put something out on the market if it didn't work. Deal with it and build it right maybe the instructions will help.
Originally Posted by kyle3333
I can't speak for anyone else, but thats just it, they are simple f-ing rc car shocks with really good instructions. If factory drivers are pulling them off of there cars after I a couple if runs, we can't really put the blame on lack of knowledge, can we? I know I called AE out on this, but there are enough customers and factory drivers who seem to know their sh*t that are having issues to merit "bitching" about this. Thanks for insulting everyone who is having issues. That helps, no really, it does. Awesome.
Originally Posted by CT RACER
I'm not insulting everyone. I'm just tired of listening to every one who dosnt know how to build a shock. I mean no disrespect in any way so sorry if I insulted you in anyway. Also It wasn't pointed at you. And FYI I don't think any ae factory drivers pulled the shocks off of their cars because of problems.
Originally Posted by YankeeFan123
+1...
The Big Bores work amazing and are built extremely well!! Having to rebuild your shocks on race day is normal for the guys looking for the perfect run!! I am assuming the o-rings will swell over a couple weeks and there will be no more air intruding the shock body creating rebound after a night of racing!!!!
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:30 PM
  #22517  
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Originally Posted by CT RACER
I'm not insulting everyone. I'm just tired of listening to every one who dosnt know how to build a shock. I mean no disrespect in any way so sorry if I insulted you in anyway. Also It wasn't pointed at you. And FYI I don't think any ae factory drivers pulled the shocks off of their cars because of problems.
I have NO problems with my BB personally. But the guys who are have problems around me are people I would let build my shocks! So when they say they are build pressure I believe them. What I dont know is if they spaced them or dremeled the towers. I believe not spacing them and dremeling is the way to go.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:40 PM
  #22518  
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The people bitching about the shocks are the ones that are trying to use other parts to make them "better". They are great the way they come. Just build and mount per the instructions and you should be fine
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:45 PM
  #22519  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
The people bitching about the shocks are the ones that are trying to use other parts to make them "better". They are great the way they come. Just build and mount per the instructions and you should be fine
I agree, I built mine step by step per instructions and my shocks are working great with no issues at all............
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:53 PM
  #22520  
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let the oring sit in some oil over night to swell some then build.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:54 PM
  #22521  
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+1, they work great. Just don't use Kyosho X rings..thats it. I have years of experience and know for a fact they don't work, if someone else "got them to work", i'd like to mess with it myself...because it will suck air.

On a lighter note i used the lunsford titanium quick change mounts and love em so far, using the RTR plastic bushings and a 1mm blue aluminum spacer between the plastic bushing at the hex on the lunsford mounts did the trick, i only had to grind the front tower a bit and used no lower spacers
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Old 10-18-2012 | 04:58 PM
  #22522  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
The people bitching about the shocks are the ones that are trying to use other parts to make them "better". They are great the way they come. Just build and mount per the instructions and you should be fine
I totally agree. I built mine step by step to the instructions Kyosho stuff is ment for Kyosho bb's not associateds.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:03 PM
  #22523  
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Originally Posted by Just1More
+1, they work great. Just don't use Kyosho X rings..thats it. I have years of experience and know for a fact they don't work, if someone else "got them to work", i'd like to mess with it myself...because it will suck air.

On a lighter note i used the lunsford titanium quick change mounts and love em so far, using the RTR plastic bushings and a 1mm blue aluminum spacer between the plastic bushing at the hex on the lunsford mounts did the trick, i only had to grind the front tower a bit and used no lower spacers
Can you post a picture. I'd like to see them if you don't mind.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:05 PM
  #22524  
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Exactly, the instructions are well written, just follow them.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:14 PM
  #22525  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
The people bitching about the shocks are the ones that are trying to use other parts to make them "better". They are great the way they come. Just build and mount per the instructions and you should be fine
lol...
Then why is Mayfield running kyosho x-rings in his.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:21 PM
  #22526  
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Originally Posted by ShtLuck
lol...
Then why is Mayfield running kyosho x-rings in his.
Because Maifield was running prototype shocks.
Many things were changed for the production to fix issues that were found during testing.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:37 PM
  #22527  
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Originally Posted by ShtLuck
lol...
Then why is Mayfield running kyosho x-rings in his.
Im sure someone who doesn't even know the proper spelling of his name has dialed inside info.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:39 PM
  #22528  
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I am loving my new B4.1 FTW with all the Avid gear but I am curious how tight should a properly built ball diff feel? Should there be resistance like a gear diff with a higher wt oil or as loose as it can be without slipping and feel like 1000wt oil? Does it depend on the track conditions or do you run it the same all the time? I have been racing 1/8 for while and 2wd SCT but I just kept the gear diff in my SC10 and now I realize what I was missing got 2nd first time out with my 1/10 2wd buggy but I did get it from a pro who changed sponsors he ran it once(Nats) after putting all the Avid stuff on it and some other go fast gear so it is dialed. Anyway I have one more question about my 8.5 Viper VTXR10 combo that I run in it seems like my esc. is a little hot 160f and motor is 150f but I am confused what I could do to decrease temps on both because Viper told me to go up a gear to drop esc. temps but are close to hot with the motor already so what would you guys do? Geared 22/81 with no bind at all in drivetrain. Thanks for any advice /info!
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:46 PM
  #22529  
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Hold the spur gear with one hand... Flick one wheel... The wheels should spin between 1 and 1 and half rotations.
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Old 10-18-2012 | 05:46 PM
  #22530  
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Ok so I want to to buy a worlds but I here there testing a new one. Am I safe to buy one now or should I wait?
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