Is this like your theory on spring progressiveness, or the difference between 2 hole and 3 hole caster blocks, or do you have some sort of proof this time?

Do you think shock mounting angle maybe the cause of the shock drawing air from the bottom. Lots of spacing going to fit these shocks to the towers with shaving material from thr tower. Bad angles could be putting a side hold on the seal package creating the air leak.

I would just like to know why AE didn't make the BBs exactly like the shocks used on the SC10 4x4, those shocks are great. I would also like to know why AE can't just put out a high demand product that just works. I know, bitching about it doesn't really help anything, but it's 2012, come on AE really. It should also be noted that I have had confirmation that the clear Kyosho x-rings do work. So that MAY indicated that there are some quality control issues where the components are manufactured. I don't know, just bummed that instead of seeing posts on how super awesome these BBs are, there is nothing but debating on how to get them to simply work properly. What a bunch of horse sh*t. For those of you not having issues, sorry for the post.

My big bores are awesome!!!! :ha:

Agreed.

I mean really?!

What are the guys like Maifield and Caverleri doing to get their BB's working?
I am sure if they had problems they would have told AE?

conirmation that x-rings "do work"

depends what the definition of work is. Of course they will go in the shock the orings are the same as the old shocks.. however they will leak as the shocks were designed around an o-ring that swells up (stock o-rings)

I ran tkyo orings in mine the first night i had them.. they leaked..they built pressure.. i took them out and put stocks in and it was much better.

Mine too. They just take a good bit longer to get all the air out.

I would like to add that after my last shock service which only included topping off my shocks and re-bleeding them i ended up bleeding them 3-4 times and after both my qualifiers i had no added rebound, basically they were the same as when i first blead them. Previously i was only bleeding them twice and that was leaving a little too much oil in the shocks for how little o-ring stiction there is causing a little bit of leakage and air displacing that oil that seeped out. That is my theory and i wasnt loosing an excess amount of oil before hand that would make me think there was a problem but after 1-2 runs the rebound was a tad excessive.

So in short make sure you bleed them more then twice. This above post was on my t4 with the big bores, since i have been focusing on it. I also should post a pic of how i have my shocks mounted in the rear with the shaved brace. I used a very thin 4-40 nut with the plastic shock cap bushings and just a 1mm shim on the bottom and i can almost get away with no shimming in the bottom but im using the sc10 4x4 rear link on my t4. i think the angle is ideal and a lot better then before and i think i can get away with zero shiming on my buggy when i get another set of plastic bushings.

Well, there you go. That makes complete sense to me. I'm really starting to think that this is a case by case kind of thing. Which then says to me, even after factoring out human error and/or experience working on RC cars, that there are some tolerance issues where the parts are made. I could be wrong, but that's just how I feel. But, like I said, your findings make a lot of sense to me.

Well my 2 cents is all the people bitching about these shocks I'm guessing you didn't build them correctly. I mean mine work fine and Alot of other people's are just fine also. So why aren't yours fine hmm. Maybe you don't know how to build a dam shock Jesus stop complaining about it already team associated wouldn't put something out on the market if it didn't work. Deal with it and build it right maybe the instructions will help:).

I can't speak for anyone else, but thats just it, they are simple f-ing rc car shocks with really good instructions. If factory drivers are pulling them off of there cars after I a couple if runs, we can't really put the blame on lack of knowledge, can we? I know I called AE out on this, but there are enough customers and factory drivers who seem to know their sh*t that are having issues to merit "bitching" about this. Thanks for insulting everyone who is having issues. That helps, no really, it does. Awesome.

I'm not insulting everyone. I'm just tired of listening to every one who dosnt know how to build a shock. I mean no disrespect in any way so sorry if I insulted you in anyway. Also It wasn't pointed at you. And FYI I don't think any ae factory drivers pulled the shocks off of their cars because of problems.

+1...:ha:

I think you my be on to something, I went to great length to make sure my bb were mounted with no side force and I have absolutely zero pressurization. I would make sure your springs and camber link aren't touching, thats probably the point where most peoples shafts gets pushed to the side, mid stroke. I'm sure with the customization of the installation there is a million different ways everybody mounted them. With all the different options of shimming and shaving it only makes sense that some ways worked and some don't. If your one of the people having issues, I wouldn't focus on rebuilding or using different parts in your shocks, just focus on trying different mounting techniques.

On a seperate note try TSRs' Bladders. They work great.

Mine were shimmed a bit with a little bit of tower grindage and my shocks are perfectly fine.