Originally Posted by whittie (Post 11112854)

Hey Guys,

I did a search but seems I'm in a minority racing an RTR buggy with a gear diff.

I'm struggling with really bad understeer through a very long 200+ degree corner at the track and then also with the rear snapping under power and losing the rear end.

I am, as I said, running with a gear diff and was wondering what diff oil should be ball park for a very slippery hard dusty clay track. I've got 5,000 in it now and was going to try 3,000, but is that still too heavy?

My mate let me drive his 22 buggy, and I was really able to throw the thing around and it had WAY more steering than my car. I'm not a bad driver, but I have no confidence in this car and my consistency is RUBBISH even though my fast laps are very reasonable, it's all about losing the rear end and getting stuck on pipe.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by whittie (Post 11112854)

Hey Guys,

I did a search but seems I'm in a minority racing an RTR buggy with a gear diff.

I'm struggling with really bad understeer through a very long 200+ degree corner at the track and then also with the rear snapping under power and losing the rear end.

I am, as I said, running with a gear diff and was wondering what diff oil should be ball park for a very slippery hard dusty clay track. I've got 5,000 in it now and was going to try 3,000, but is that still too heavy?

My mate let me drive his 22 buggy, and I was really able to throw the thing around and it had WAY more steering than my car. I'm not a bad driver, but I have no confidence in this car and my consistency is RUBBISH even though my fast laps are very reasonable, it's all about losing the rear end and getting stuck on pipe.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by elecRC23 (Post 11110540)

Is all you guys do whine about what you have. This thread isn't about saying that ur tempted to buy an rb5, your supposed to be having pride in your associated product and do whatever it takes to leave all the other competitors in the dust. You can't just say" oo, that car looks like it is going faster than mine, I think I should sell mine and buy that one" have some loyalty people!!

Originally Posted by Eli (Post 11112570)

To be honest with you i cant answer that question. What end thickness did you end up with on your stock v2 spacers?

Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 11106832)

Honestly, get a 13.5 and run it. There's absolutely no need for more power than that until you are a very good driver.

The other advice I would give is focus on your tires. Tires are 90% of your car's handling. You can't make a bad set of tires work by tuning the chassis, but you can make bad setup work with good tires (if that makes sense).

If you notice, most of the pros don't change their setup very much at all unless it's extreme conditions. You should have a baseline (Cav's Vassa setup) that you run everywhere. Don't touch it until you have the right tires and you are able to nail the line consistently lap after lap. And even then, you should just need to make small changes, usually to affect how the car rotates through the turns.

All these hop ups that everyone buys (myself included) aren't needed. You can take the car out of the box and as long as you practice what I said above, you will succeed and have fun. (unless you are me... then you are doomed to suck :P)

Originally Posted by HareTurtle (Post 11113247)

anyone tried the Racers Edge Hard Anodized 1deg Rear Hub Carrier?
Comes with set screw to lock into the hinge pin. will give them a try. Im trying to reduce rear slop. Adding avid bearings too. I noticed the stock bearings have become pretty sloppy too adding to the play in the axle.

Originally Posted by losi316 (Post 11108734)

I have a few questions, would like some honest answers. I have never owned nor driven a ae car since the early 90's. What makes this car the choice of so many racers? All i ever hear is how sloppy the car is the parts quailty is not that great, but so many people race ae products. The roar nats. Jessie Robbers ran a b4 wc. Why would he choose this car over a 22 or rb5 or even the durango?

Originally Posted by johnny ray (Post 11113094)

Took my b4 to the track today with losi bb springs red front white rear and it pushed like crazy so I put yellow in rear and that got it under control. Other than that buggy ran really well with losi springs. I'm running 35wt front 30wt rear you guys think if I switch to 32.5 wt front it would give me a little more steering? Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Lonestar (Post 11103480)

NP, very cool, thanks for stepping in. Fine, PTFE, not delrin. Teflon is great indeed, low friction and I believe you when you say the bore is more suited to the 1/8 shaft that the stock part, which, I agree is total JUNK... I use the older white spacers (sanded) and kyosho x-rings in my shocks myself. It's just the price that shocks me tbh, if you'd sell it for $10 for a full set you'd sell them by the bucket I'd think (I know, it's crazy to save $10 on shock performance when we spend thousands during a racing season). The proline DLC shafts are expensive because the surface-coating manufacturing process isn't cheap...Do you machine the spacers yourself?

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by RC10Nick (Post 11113514)

I've been slowly upgrading my original b4 to 4.1 specs. I have noticed some odd behavior in the car. If I accelerate fast enough to break the rear wheels loose, the car pulls to the left. When I break with enough force to skid, the car always spins out to the right. If I accelerate and decelerate without breaking the wheels loose, it drives fine.

I thought it was an issue with drag/bind on one of the wheels, but after taking apart the whole transmission and checking every part for any kind of binding, it still does this.

I have noticed the front of my chassis is bent at the kick up, which causes the front wheels to be slightly tweaked. I kind of think this might be the cause, but can't figure out why it would only do it when I break the rear tires loose.

What do you guys think? The chassis? Maybe I missed something in the transmission? I wouldn't mind having an excuse to upgrade to a +8 chassis ;)

Originally Posted by johnny ray (Post 11113094)

Took my b4 to the track today with losi bb springs red front white rear and it pushed like crazy so I put yellow in rear and that got it under control. Other than that buggy ran really well with losi springs. I'm running 35wt front 30wt rear you guys think if I switch to 32.5 wt front it would give me a little more steering? Thanks in advance.