RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#1786
So the stock ball cups are crap? should I go with Losi white or rpm?
Also, Just want some clarification. On the Proline Bulldog body for the b4.1, they made a running change to the design of the body. This means the new ones have the same part numbers, right? And they are already in circulation? Does anyone know when the change was made?
Also, Just want some clarification. On the Proline Bulldog body for the b4.1, they made a running change to the design of the body. This means the new ones have the same part numbers, right? And they are already in circulation? Does anyone know when the change was made?
#1788
So the stock ball cups are crap? should I go with Losi white or rpm?
Also, Just want some clarification. On the Proline Bulldog body for the b4.1, they made a running change to the design of the body. This means the new ones have the same part numbers, right? And they are already in circulation? Does anyone know when the change was made?
Also, Just want some clarification. On the Proline Bulldog body for the b4.1, they made a running change to the design of the body. This means the new ones have the same part numbers, right? And they are already in circulation? Does anyone know when the change was made?
#1789
I think Losi white are the best... in my experience, they are physically bigger(longer; cover more turnbuckle), have less slop, don't develop much slop over time, don't pop off the ball stud, and they look really nice on the car
AE bend and break and wear out (mostly on T4 but happens on B4 as well)... not to say they dont work I just dont like losing a race because of a broken ballcup or unpredictable handling because they're all bent in the event of a hard crash...
AE bend and break and wear out (mostly on T4 but happens on B4 as well)... not to say they dont work I just dont like losing a race because of a broken ballcup or unpredictable handling because they're all bent in the event of a hard crash...
Last edited by Jowers; 02-28-2011 at 03:49 PM.
#1790
1. Fill shocks
2. Move piston up and rotate back down to release air
3. Top off shock body and add some (don't fill) to the cap
4. Tighten shock cap
5. Release bleeder screw... oil/air may come out
6. Tighten bleeder screw and then tighten cap
7. Repeat 5 and 6 once more
8. Using a shock stand, allow shocks to sit upright (fully extended) for a few mins so any air can work its way up to the bleeder screw
9. Release bleeder screw and SLOWLY compress shock until there is ~1-2mm gap between shock end and shock body.
10. Carefully tighten bleeder screw while holding the shock in position
This should give you the "hard" rebound I speak of.. basically its like having a little extra oil in there to create pressure.. when your done and you go to pull the shaft back down it will want to rebound back into the shock.. this is not cause for concern its just the pressure fluctuating.. After the shock is extended with a spring on it this will no longer happen.. Just be careful not to over do it on the "hard" pack or it may cause a blow out either through the bottom seals or through the cap seal.
2. Move piston up and rotate back down to release air
3. Top off shock body and add some (don't fill) to the cap
4. Tighten shock cap
5. Release bleeder screw... oil/air may come out
6. Tighten bleeder screw and then tighten cap
7. Repeat 5 and 6 once more
8. Using a shock stand, allow shocks to sit upright (fully extended) for a few mins so any air can work its way up to the bleeder screw
9. Release bleeder screw and SLOWLY compress shock until there is ~1-2mm gap between shock end and shock body.
10. Carefully tighten bleeder screw while holding the shock in position
This should give you the "hard" rebound I speak of.. basically its like having a little extra oil in there to create pressure.. when your done and you go to pull the shaft back down it will want to rebound back into the shock.. this is not cause for concern its just the pressure fluctuating.. After the shock is extended with a spring on it this will no longer happen.. Just be careful not to over do it on the "hard" pack or it may cause a blow out either through the bottom seals or through the cap seal.
Last edited by Jowers; 02-28-2011 at 04:38 PM.
#1793
despite the economy, little vacation, my displeasure with RCs main organizing body, and fact that your region 1 and i'm region 2 (ie non-existant electrically)....i can still say your not lookin hard enough.
cheers.
R
#1794
u post enough and u'll be accused just the same. perhaps part of me is new york at heart.
despite the economy, little vacation, my displeasure with RCs main organizing body, and fact that your region 1 and i'm region 2 (ie non-existant electrically)....i can still say your not lookin hard enough.
cheers.
R
despite the economy, little vacation, my displeasure with RCs main organizing body, and fact that your region 1 and i'm region 2 (ie non-existant electrically)....i can still say your not lookin hard enough.
cheers.
R

As for the kit and the low quality, whether it be your expectations or actual quality, it has been a common complaint with the AE kits. Mine did not have any problems with it but I don't doubt that people ARE having problems with their kits.
1. Fill shocks
2. Move piston up and rotate back down to release air
3. Top off shock body and add some (don't fill) to the cap
4. Tighten shock cap
5. Release bleeder screw... oil/air may come out
6. Tighten bleeder screw and then tighten cap
7. Repeat 5 and 6 once more
8. Using a shock stand, allow shocks to sit upright (fully extended) for a few mins so any air can work its way up to the bleeder screw
9. Release bleeder screw and SLOWLY compress shock until there is ~1-2mm gap between shock end and shock body.
10. Carefully tighten bleeder screw while holding the shock in position
This should give you the "hard" rebound I speak of.. basically its like having a little extra oil in there to create pressure.. when your done and you go to pull the shaft back down it will want to rebound back into the shock.. this is not cause for concern its just the pressure fluctuating.. After the shock is extended with a spring on it this will no longer happen.. Just be careful not to over do it on the "hard" pack or it may cause a blow out either through the bottom seals or through the cap seal.
2. Move piston up and rotate back down to release air
3. Top off shock body and add some (don't fill) to the cap
4. Tighten shock cap
5. Release bleeder screw... oil/air may come out
6. Tighten bleeder screw and then tighten cap
7. Repeat 5 and 6 once more
8. Using a shock stand, allow shocks to sit upright (fully extended) for a few mins so any air can work its way up to the bleeder screw
9. Release bleeder screw and SLOWLY compress shock until there is ~1-2mm gap between shock end and shock body.
10. Carefully tighten bleeder screw while holding the shock in position
This should give you the "hard" rebound I speak of.. basically its like having a little extra oil in there to create pressure.. when your done and you go to pull the shaft back down it will want to rebound back into the shock.. this is not cause for concern its just the pressure fluctuating.. After the shock is extended with a spring on it this will no longer happen.. Just be careful not to over do it on the "hard" pack or it may cause a blow out either through the bottom seals or through the cap seal.
Not too different from the kit (if you do it just right) but a lot easier to read and follow! +1
#1796
Awesome sauce!! I'm lovin the new speedo
And that Charger is really great! It's the one I use
Just be sure to keep it pretty well ventilated as it will heat up pretty quick.
Hurry up and get it put together so I can see some pics of your new toy!
And that Charger is really great! It's the one I use
Just be sure to keep it pretty well ventilated as it will heat up pretty quick.Hurry up and get it put together so I can see some pics of your new toy!
#1797






...Found em

