RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-05-2012 | 07:21 AM
Just throwing this out there, would love to get a good discussion going:
As a RC racing amateur, I'm just not sure I'm doing it right. I've gone through the growing pains of "upgrade-itis", I've broken just about everything once (some things twice), I've roached perfectly good tires in one day thanks to poor throttle control... but I've always let the quicker guys pass, try to help out the very few who are greener than I, and always hand out whatever parts I might have to those in need freely. Basically, I've got some etiquette but little talent.
The question is, talking about the beloved B4.1, how do you use your brakes?
For some reason, I have a terrible tendency to not brake unless absolutely necessary. I'm a decent real-world driver, I've played a million hours of Gran Turismo, and I understand racing lines. But with this little car, all of that seems to go out the window. I use drag brake to slow me down approaching a corner, because I want to avoid losing momentum, and I don't want to be an obstacle for the guy behind me (who's invariably about to pass). I feel like the acceleration throw on my gun is three inches, but the braking throw is six millimeters. There just doesn't feel like much room between a gentle deceleration and full-on stomping on the brakes. I don't want to get into an equipment debate, I'm asking about technique.
Are you tapping the brakes at certain intervals coming into a hairpin, for instance, are you somehow able to skillfully modulate your braking with a measured flick of the index finger, are you using drag brake at all, are you braking early or late (as a general rule), are you braking and turning to throw your tail out to cause a drift situation?
I've watched several races from the marshall's view, but I guess I've been too apprehensive to just stare at the other drivers' hands. It'd look a little weird. So, any insight I can get from the experienced folks in here is definitely appreciated.
As a RC racing amateur, I'm just not sure I'm doing it right. I've gone through the growing pains of "upgrade-itis", I've broken just about everything once (some things twice), I've roached perfectly good tires in one day thanks to poor throttle control... but I've always let the quicker guys pass, try to help out the very few who are greener than I, and always hand out whatever parts I might have to those in need freely. Basically, I've got some etiquette but little talent.
The question is, talking about the beloved B4.1, how do you use your brakes?
For some reason, I have a terrible tendency to not brake unless absolutely necessary. I'm a decent real-world driver, I've played a million hours of Gran Turismo, and I understand racing lines. But with this little car, all of that seems to go out the window. I use drag brake to slow me down approaching a corner, because I want to avoid losing momentum, and I don't want to be an obstacle for the guy behind me (who's invariably about to pass). I feel like the acceleration throw on my gun is three inches, but the braking throw is six millimeters. There just doesn't feel like much room between a gentle deceleration and full-on stomping on the brakes. I don't want to get into an equipment debate, I'm asking about technique.
Are you tapping the brakes at certain intervals coming into a hairpin, for instance, are you somehow able to skillfully modulate your braking with a measured flick of the index finger, are you using drag brake at all, are you braking early or late (as a general rule), are you braking and turning to throw your tail out to cause a drift situation?
I've watched several races from the marshall's view, but I guess I've been too apprehensive to just stare at the other drivers' hands. It'd look a little weird. So, any insight I can get from the experienced folks in here is definitely appreciated.
07-05-2012 | 10:42 AM
This is what I do, I'm sure many racers r different. I run 10 to 20 percent drag brake depending on the track. And if extra is needed, i use the transmittor brake. I also adjusted the brake n the transmittor(Futaba 4PL), so I can hit full brake and it wont lock the brakes. I'm from concrete oval racing back n the day when we didn't really use brakes, so I have a different driving style than most. If your radio is locking the brakes by just barely touching the trigger, then u certainly need to adjust the settings n your radio. U can adjust most radios to have any amt of brake u want. U can also adjust the esc, but I think its much easier to adjust the radio. Get your brakes adjusted and practice and they'll soon b having to move over to let u pass.
That gave me a serious DOH! moment. I have been adjusting the brakes on the ESC. Between adjusting the expo & epa on the transmitter I should have much better control how it brakes. Thanks for the tip!
For drag brake, I don't run any. I never could get it adjusted properly. It would cause the rear to slide at odd times & required more effort to keep control of the nose during big air (small was fine actually helped down side easier). I hadn't even realized I was doing it until my son asked about it, but I do tap the brakes around tight corners to get it to rotate. Once I figured out I was doing it in 1 spot I figured out I was doing it another as well, but for the most part I straight line brake with maybe a little trail braking into the corner.
07-05-2012 | 10:52 AM
I am still trying to get my brakes under control as well. I typically just set 10% drag brake for my mod motors and my 13.5 already has plenty of drag in the motor itself. So i use zero. I have played with curves and epo and many other things in the past. Right now I am playing with brake power. I am currently at 20% of the max brake power. The B4 is so small and light, that it is not hard to just barely move the trigger for brake and have it spin. The higher the bite of the track the more brake you can use. Drag brake is nice, but remember you will ALWAYS have that much brake. It is not a controlled brake. I prefer using a pct of the max brake and setting that for the traction of the track and my braking style. Right now if I mash the brakes on my buggy, it just slows down a lot and used about 10-15 feet to stop. But it is also enough to get my nose down and down side the jump. I caught some wind the other day and mashed the brake and it nicely brought the nose down and had a soft landing. I almost never need 100% brake.
07-05-2012 | 11:04 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
ESC Suggestions
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
07-05-2012 | 11:43 AM
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
07-05-2012 | 11:45 AM
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
07-05-2012 | 11:55 AM
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
I will 2nd the rs, but several guys locally have gone w/ the viper. I got to mess around w/ one recently & was very impressed. I like their pro card, it's very easy to use & a lot more convenient than a laptop you need for the rs. On the other hand, nothing beats tekins customer service!
07-05-2012 | 12:30 PM
I'm a fan of the RS. Pair it with whatever motor you like and it kicks ass. I run Orion motors with mine, and have TONS of smooth, useable power. You can adjust the ESC to give you any feel you want. Super responsive and punchy, or mellow and smooth.
07-05-2012 | 03:02 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,776
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
07-05-2012 | 04:44 PM
So I just picked up a 4.1 World's roller and I'm looking for some ESC suggestions. I'll be running a Revtech 10.5 turn sensored motor. From reading thru the thread, it seems the newer MMP's with the attached fans don't fit too good without mod's being done. And I'm not really in a position to spend RS Pro type money. So I'm looking for some other suggestions on ESC's that I might be able to get in the $100 - 150 range. If I have to go to a RS Pro or a Venom to run the Revtech, I will. Just don't want to shell it out if I don't have to.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
07-05-2012 | 09:27 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
The tires that came with the kit are holeshots in m3 compound. A little harder than m4 Proline or green compound Jconcepts.
I ran the tires that came with the kit for practice at SRS and Glitch. Were fine for dry conditions and lastest a couple of sessions. They don't work very well on a watered outdoor track.
I ran BK bars in supersoft compound at one hobbies indoor track with fairly good traction. They swept the track and watered the edges. The AKA vektors in the front were the way to go for me. I tried rips and groovys in the front but found them not as good.
At SRS I race on a watered track. For me the Double Dees in green compound worked great with the groovys in front. The Holeshots attract too much dirt and get pretty caked up on a wet track.
I also run the red AKA inserts in all my tires. Hope that helps.
I ran the tires that came with the kit for practice at SRS and Glitch. Were fine for dry conditions and lastest a couple of sessions. They don't work very well on a watered outdoor track.
I ran BK bars in supersoft compound at one hobbies indoor track with fairly good traction. They swept the track and watered the edges. The AKA vektors in the front were the way to go for me. I tried rips and groovys in the front but found them not as good.
At SRS I race on a watered track. For me the Double Dees in green compound worked great with the groovys in front. The Holeshots attract too much dirt and get pretty caked up on a wet track.
I also run the red AKA inserts in all my tires. Hope that helps.
Last edited by zipperfoot; 07-06-2012 at 02:19 PM.
07-06-2012 | 12:30 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,268
From: El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora La Reina de Los Ángeles del Río de Porciúncula, California, Unites States of America
I bought this kit in about 2003 i'd say, gotta say, it holds up well!
The car had been collecting dust for many years, never even tracked it, until today.
Got some new tires on it and new lipo/brushless setup, refilled the shocks, re-lubed the diff and off she went, really impressed me. Now I'm excited about using the B4 Team Kit over my 22.
The car turns better, and I think even jumps better than my 22. I will need to put stock motors on both (only the 22 had a mod) and try them again, side by side.
Thinking of some mods.. already have modern lipo/brushless and the right tires. What is worth upgrading that really makes a difference? It's the original RC10B4 Team Kit.
The car had been collecting dust for many years, never even tracked it, until today.
Got some new tires on it and new lipo/brushless setup, refilled the shocks, re-lubed the diff and off she went, really impressed me. Now I'm excited about using the B4 Team Kit over my 22.
The car turns better, and I think even jumps better than my 22. I will need to put stock motors on both (only the 22 had a mod) and try them again, side by side.
Thinking of some mods.. already have modern lipo/brushless and the right tires. What is worth upgrading that really makes a difference? It's the original RC10B4 Team Kit.