RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-06-2012, 10:15 AM
Hi,
3 friends and I, currently racing 1/8 offroad buggies in Switzerland, are considering running 1/10 2WD brushless buggies in the winter season (there are no 1/8 indoor tracks, and winter is dead for outdoor racing around here). With the amounts we sink into our favorite hobby, we were considering a low cost approach to 1/10 2WD, and all want to have the same equipment - no arms race.
The cheapest available in Switzerland consists in the RC10B4.1 RTR kit. The Worlds kit is the same price but requires esc/motor/servo in addition.
Now the RTR kit, from what I've read, does have a few shortcomings (servo, shocks, esc/motor, else?). And so I have a couple of questions:
1. In your opinion, what are the parts that need an upgrade or which upgrades will offer the most effective/efficient improvements in the RTR kit. Remember we are just looking for a relatively reliable & decent performing car, while limiting costs as much as possible, not looking for top performance.
2. If we go the Worlds kit route, what would be a good low cost ESC/motor combo to recommend (looking for the equivalent of a Xerun 150A/Leopard motor combo people use in 1/8 buggies). Recommended servos welcome!
Any thoughts and feedback welcome,
Cheers,
Nick
3 friends and I, currently racing 1/8 offroad buggies in Switzerland, are considering running 1/10 2WD brushless buggies in the winter season (there are no 1/8 indoor tracks, and winter is dead for outdoor racing around here). With the amounts we sink into our favorite hobby, we were considering a low cost approach to 1/10 2WD, and all want to have the same equipment - no arms race.
The cheapest available in Switzerland consists in the RC10B4.1 RTR kit. The Worlds kit is the same price but requires esc/motor/servo in addition.
Now the RTR kit, from what I've read, does have a few shortcomings (servo, shocks, esc/motor, else?). And so I have a couple of questions:
1. In your opinion, what are the parts that need an upgrade or which upgrades will offer the most effective/efficient improvements in the RTR kit. Remember we are just looking for a relatively reliable & decent performing car, while limiting costs as much as possible, not looking for top performance.
2. If we go the Worlds kit route, what would be a good low cost ESC/motor combo to recommend (looking for the equivalent of a Xerun 150A/Leopard motor combo people use in 1/8 buggies). Recommended servos welcome!
Any thoughts and feedback welcome,
Cheers,
Nick
First off, it comes with everything but a battery so you can be out on the track in minutes.
Second, the Worlds kit parts are direct replacements to the RTR and FT cars so you can upgrade as you want/ break.
Third, If you dont like the class or the car, you can sell it and not take that big of a hit in the wallet.
As far as the electronics go. They will get you around just fine. I sold my motor and ESC to a friend that was getting into the hobby and borrowed the RTR gear to run for a weekend. It worked just fine, although I was a little disapointed as it is not a sensored set-up and I had to learn how to drive my car again, but the performance was pretty good. Servo is a little slow but that is somewhat of a cheap fix, but it does work.
One big plus with the WC kit is that you get the best of everything right off the bat and you can choose your gear when you are building it. That has always been a plus for me as I like to do it right the first time. Yes it costs a little more at first but I have always been rewarded by it with all the fun I have driving more instead of tuning and replacing parts. Thats just my opinion.
Both options are good ones. Just think of how you want to approach it. If you know you are going to like racing 1/10th buggy, splurge. If you are not sure, get a feel for it before you dump a bunch of money on something you dont like.
06-06-2012, 10:49 AM
Thnx blue screw that was what i was looking for
06-06-2012, 12:01 PM
Couple questions because I am basically done building my worlds kit here are the problems I encountered:
There were no drive pins that go through the axle.. I thought maybe they were in a different package or a package I put on the floor.. nope I searched through it 2 times..
Then the rear hubs were totally different colors for some reason.. (any idea why that is)
Other than that I got the whole kit done
There were no drive pins that go through the axle.. I thought maybe they were in a different package or a package I put on the floor.. nope I searched through it 2 times..
Then the rear hubs were totally different colors for some reason.. (any idea why that is)
Other than that I got the whole kit done
06-06-2012, 02:12 PM
These work just fine too.
http://www.bfastrc.com/lubeandtuning.html
06-06-2012, 02:27 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
Hey guys Im getting out of 10th scale, just wanted to post up for for sale ad. If you know of anyone looking to get into a b4.1 worlds have them take a look.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...pic-heavy.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...pic-heavy.html
06-06-2012, 04:37 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Ok so i got the v2 shocks and im trying to put the black o ring inside the collars and i cant put it in there and im starting to get very pissed is there a technique or do i even need the oring in there
06-06-2012, 04:45 PM
lol calm down man itz cool, lol jut place a lil shock oil on your finger and rub the rings between them to lube em and place a part of the ring in the collor and kinda walk it in as u go around the collor, i hope this helps my friend
06-06-2012, 05:35 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I have come to find out that the o ring was just stretched because the other one went on with ease is there a way to shrink it back a little
06-06-2012, 05:52 PM
06-06-2012, 06:12 PM
06-06-2012, 07:22 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I was looking for a serious answer but thanks for your uselessness. I just put it on without the oring for now hope its fine
06-06-2012, 07:48 PM
06-06-2012, 08:33 PM
put the oring in the freezer the cold air will help to shrink it. and this is a serious answer.
06-06-2012, 08:46 PM
Honestly I would replace all the o rings...they are cheap enough and easy to do